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I have a 1997 F-250HD with the 7.5L and the E4OD. I just bought it a couple weeks ago. Speedometer doesn't work and it was shifting horribly on the way home. I changed the VSS on the rear diff. It's drivable now, but still shifts hard and is throwing a transmission trouble light on the OD. Speedometer still does not work.
I bought a Innova 3145 code reader. It indicates that it's connected to the computer, but doesn't seem to actually be doing any testing and never pulls any codes.
Anyone have any thoughts? I'm stuck if I can't pull the codes I guess, so help with either the shifting issue or if someone has any ideas about why the reader won't pull codes, information would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by redshiftperf; Oct 13, 2022 at 09:32 PM.
Nice looking truck. Good color choice. Your computer doesn't know how fast your going so it's just guessing with the shift points and pumping up the transmission pressure to save itself.
Are you trying to pull codes with the key on, engine off?
Nice looking truck. Good color choice. Your computer doesn't know how fast your going so it's just guessing with the shift points and pumping up the transmission pressure to save itself.
Are you trying to pull codes with the key on, engine off?
Thank you, sir. I like yours as well. ;-)
I figured that's what was going on, as far as the ECU not knowing when to tell the transmission to shift because of unknown speeds. I just don't know what's causing it since I can't get the reader to pull codes.
Yes, key on, engine off. The manual says, and I have seen YouTube videos where, relays start clickity clacking, fuel pump kicks on, etc. None of that happens and it never displays any code.
Blank. That sounds even more like a fuse, doesn't it?
your dome light screws are too long and one is piercing a wire that then shorts fuse 8 which knocks out your cluster and your light, as well as some other stuff.
I think that is the TSB's long story short
its either that it screws into the wire or the thing it screws into is hot, but it the outer roof panel can hit the screw tip, causing the fuse to blow.
your dome light screws are too long and one is piercing a wire that then shorts fuse 8 which knocks out your cluster and your light, as well as some other stuff.
I think that is the TSB's long story short
its either that it screws into the wire or the thing it screws into is hot, but it the outer roof panel can hit the screw tip, causing the fuse to blow.
Dang, good info. I might have never thought of that at all and just kept blowing a million fuses trying to figure it out. Thank you.
The good news is your vss wiring is probably fine. The bad news is you changed out a perfectly good Ford VSS sensor for an inferior aftermarket one. I suggest putting the ford one back in.
if your speedo doesn't have power, it can't send speed info to the computer and it'll be upset. Inspect the dome light screws as stated above and try inserting another #8 fuse. Hopefully, that'll get the speedo/odo working again.
Well, the fuse was burned up. I just took the dome light out for the time being, until I can verify that the fuse fixes the shifting problem. So, I've also been loosing a ton of oil from a leaky oil filter adapter. Decided to fix that too. When I got into that, the radiator hoses were in the way and look like they're in pretty bad shape. I had to order those. So, it'll all go back together tomorrow and I'll let you all know if that got it fixed. I'm super confident that this was the problem though.
In the mean time, does anyone have any ideas about why the codes won't read? One of the things I was hoping to verify is that the rear tank doesn't work because it needs a new fuel pump.
Well, the fuse was burned up. I just took the dome light out for the time being, until I can verify that the fuse fixes the shifting problem. So, I've also been loosing a ton of oil from a leaky oil filter adapter. Decided to fix that too. When I got into that, the radiator hoses were in the way and look like they're in pretty bad shape. I had to order those. So, it'll all go back together tomorrow and I'll let you all know if that got it fixed. I'm super confident that this was the problem though.
In the mean time, does anyone have any ideas about why the codes won't read? One of the things I was hoping to verify is that the rear tank doesn't work because it needs a new fuel pump.
2 things
1) do you have EEC v or EEC-iv, an OBD2 port will be under your dash by your glove box with a cap on it that says "DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR" facing the seat
If its eec-iv its going to be underhood where it was in earlier years trucks
2) you can just trim the screws and put it back in, helps to have dome light when workon thsi stuff
3) is your fuse for the diagnostics or whatever good, check the inside cab fuse panel
4) if you put a new fuse in with the dome light not touching the roof, your should quickly find out if you have another short. just operate the doors and turn the key to on to see if things are working or if it pops
also your fuel pump situation isnt diagnosed via the connector for scan tool. sometimes the fuel tank switch contacts can be cleaned and that may help, worth a try if you want to pull the face panel off, easy to do
2 things
1) do you have EEC v or EEC-iv, an OBD2 port will be under your dash by your glove box with a cap on it that says "DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR" facing the seat
If its eec-iv its going to be underhood where it was in earlier years trucks
It's EEC-IV under the hood. I bought the Innova 3145 code reader from Amazon.
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
2) you can just trim the screws and put it back in, helps to have dome light when workon thsi stuff
Bulb was burned out anyway. I'll pick one up in the morning from the parts shop while I'm there getting the radiator hoses.
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
3) is your fuse for the diagnostics or whatever good, check the inside cab fuse panel
I checked all the other fuses and all were good. Is it Fuse #16, though? It's listed as "Generic Scan Tool."
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
4) if you put a new fuse in with the dome light not touching the roof, your should quickly find out if you have another short. just operate the doors and turn the key to on to see if things are working or if it pops
Will do.
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
also your fuel pump situation isnt diagnosed via the connector for scan tool. sometimes the fuel tank switch contacts can be cleaned and that may help, worth a try if you want to pull the face panel off, easy to do
Oh, I read somewhere that the "test" function powers up the fuel pumps, so I just assumed that if one of them didn't power up, then it would let you know. I'll definitely give cleaning the switch contacts. That would be super simple, if that's all it is.
Fuse 16 is used on the OBD-II test connector. Does not apply on an OBD-I vehicle.
Try cleaning the pins on the data link connector using a small fingernail file. Retry using the code scanner. If it still does not work try running the KOEO tests/CM display using the jumper method.
