Hello to the 6.0 forum. After my 1999 F250 7.3L was stolen (RIP), I finally got around to buying a replacement. New ride is a 2005 F350 CC LB with around 170,000 miles. I plan to do the usual fluid/filter changes over the next few weeks.

I've noticed there is a Dorman EGR valve installed. Is there a general consensus on whether those should be genuine Ford products (like electronic components) or is aftermarket OK?

Also, the dust caps/dust seals on the end of the front axles are loose and are outward of the rubber lip thing on the axle shaft. How critical are those and can they be reseated somehow without pulling the axle out? 4WD does not disengage properly (need to manually flip hubs), so I may have to mess with the axles anyway.

Anything else I should be initially aware of? I've got Torque Pro and am working to get that set up for the 6.0L. I've got limited data on temperature deltas - they generally seem to be around 8-10 degrees cruising on the freeway, and they seem to drop to 5-8 if I'm climbing up a moderate incline. I'm sure more questions will follow.

Greg

 

Sorry for your loss of the 7.3L.

Yes, the general consensus is that MOST of the time OEM is best. A few exceptions:
04.5 and up - EGR cooler (get one from BulletProof Diesel)
All FICM's - upgrading them from a reliable source is HIGHLY recommended
Coolant - you REALLY need to upgrade to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant if it hasn't been already

The dust seals really do not do much. They can help keep the axle tube clean, but that is only a benefit when you are removing and then re-inserting the axles.

The OEM hubs are vacuum operated, so is it a loss f vacuum that is causing the problem with the 4x4 (ie the hubs not engaging when you flip the switch)? Usually when you have a vacuum issue, the climate control will default to defrost. Is that what is happening?

If so, you can be having vacuum issues that can come from quite a few places. The first one to check is to see if the vacuum hose that runs to the heater control valve is off. If it is not that vacuum line, then it could be a leak from any of the lines, could be one or both of the 4x4 hubs leaking at the seal, or it could be a vacuum pump issue.

I hate almost everything from Dorman, but if you are not getting an EGR valve code, then maybe replacing it can take the back burner.

From what you posted, there doesn't seem to be an issue with the oil cooler.

 

Bismic,

I was looking through the previous owner's service receipts this morning. It looks like the Ford dealer deduced that that the 4WD system was holding vacuum and they recommended hub replacement. Although I bought it a couple weeks ago, I haven't really driven it much yet. I'll have to check on the operation of climate controls to see if anything like you've described is happening.

What is your position on the importance of monitoring EGTs with the 6.0. I installed a pyrometer on my 7.3 since EGTs on those could creep up. Not sure if it is crucial on these. I probably won't be towing much until spring and even then it would be probably 5,000 lb or less with a boat. I do plan to install a fuel pressure gauge when time permits.

 

IMO if you are tuned or if you tow anything heavy, you need to monitor EGTs

 

Truck is stock.....at least as far as I can tell. It does have the gold coolant, so the ELC is on the to do list.

 

Use this video to help step you through checking the vacuum system: starting from the pump, through all components down to the hubs..


-jokester

 

Will do....thanks!

 

If you're stock you really don't need to worry about EGTs IMO. It's definitely nice to have but these trucks are tuned pretty conservatively from the factory. I did install one and the highest I've ever seen is just a bit over 1300F on a long pull in hot weather towing my 8k toy hauler. It usually runs around 1200-1250 pulling hills.

I would do fuel pressure first as you can lose injectors quickly if that drops off.

 

In my experience with the 6.0 and towing in the 10k+ range, the stock tune will keep you under 1300* no problem. IMO the motor loves revs and that keeps the egts in check. The question is will the stock head bolts stretch if you push it loaded at low rpm. Once studded, tuned and watching the EGTs the motor can take some serious loads a heavy foot and revs without complaint. Fuel pressure gauge is a must as stated above. Low fuel pressure towing is asking for trouble.

 

Fuel pressure and oil coolant pressure are two important gauges for an owner, IMO.

While I'm stock, I've installed EGT sensors on both sides. It's not that I'm worried about excessive temperature, but I think it will be a good tell if an injector over-fuels, which usually ends up burning out a cylinder. It's not a tested situation, and an over-fuel will have visual tells, but half the year I run at night and that can be a long tow. So a duel T/C gauge was added.

Way too many people believe the bolts are the problem on this engine; it's the heads.

 

Exactly what happened to my friend's '04 - he lost an injector on the side he didn't have an EGT probe on...

 

That was the lesson for me!

 

Yes and on your "visual tells", he had those - short full story: late '04 F350 SRW SCLB 4x4 ~140K miles BONE STOCK - towing heavy (14K 5er) up the I-5 grade out of Lake Shasta towards Oregon. EGT is fine but first sees white exhaust in mirror, nowhere to pull over, white turns black, black turns into flames before he can finally get stopped. End of trip, to say the least, but the truck actually still ran on 7 as the guy who bought it drove it 25 miles to his shop...

 

Ooooh that's a good point. Where did you guys end up putting the passenger side probe? I almost think you'd need to remove the manifold to drill/tap.

 

Can't help about the process, I did mine when the engine was apart.