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I just bought a 91 f150 that had sat up for a few years and the hood was left up and water leaked into the engine through the intake gasket and valve cover gasket. I got the water out of the crankcase but some leaked into the intake runner to the first cylinder on the right looking at the motor from the front. I assume some water also got into the cylinder. I plan to replace the intake gaskets but what can I do if water got into the cylinder? I already have removed the upper intake and can see down into the intake runner and there is some rust down at the end of the runner close to the cylinder head. That's hhow I found out that the water got in. How can I remediate this to where it would be ok to run the engine? Would rather not remove the cylinder head.
Unfortunately, once water sits in a cylinder, the rings begin to rust to the walls and jam in the piston. The longer it sits with water in the cylinders, the worst it gets. I'd say, after a week, irreversible damage has happened. You can pull the spark plugs and see which ones are rusty; that'll tell ya which cylinders got water.
You can try a hail-mary and spray wd-40 into the sparkplug hole and let it soak in there. Maybe that'll save the rings. I didn't have good luck with my bad engine, but then again, it was salt water damage.
[QUOTE=Prototypemech;20571418]Unfortunately, once water sits in a cylinder, the rings begin to rust to the walls and jam in the piston. The longer it sits with water in the cylinders, the worst it gets. I'd say, after a week, irreversible damage has happened. You can pull the spark plugs and see which ones are rusty; that'll tell ya which cylinders got water.
You can try a hail-mary and spray wd-40 into the sparkplug hole and let it soak in there. Maybe that'll save the rings. I didn't have good luck with my bad engine, but then again, it w
Thanks
I have ordered a boroscope camera so I can look into the cylinder and see how bad it is. I have already turned the engine with a half inch pull handle and it turned ok. It was actually a new rebuilt engine with very few miles on it. My biggest concern now is if the valve seats and faces are corroded. I think the rings can be salvaged with some WD-40 like you said. It was just small seepage into the one cylinder. I wish I had put some WD-40 into the cylinder before I turned it. It does have high performance rings and maybe they didn't break.
I just bought a 91 f150 that had sat up for a few years and the hood was left up and water leaked into the engine through the intake gasket and valve cover gasket. I got the water out of the crankcase but some leaked into the intake runner to the first cylinder on the right looking at the motor from the front. I assume some water also got into the cylinder. I plan to replace the intake gaskets but what can I do if water got into the cylinder? I already have removed the upper intake and can see down into the intake runner and there is some rust down at the end of the runner close to the cylinder head. That's hhow I found out that the water got in. How can I remediate this to where it would be ok to run the engine? Would rather not remove the cylinder head.
Get some kerosene and pour some into the intake. It will run into the cylinders that got the water. Let it sit for a couple days, remove the plugs and turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar. Back and forth a little at a time. If it gets free, you may be able to hone with just removing the heads. Kero is a main ingredient in most penetrating oils, and is much cheaper by the gallon. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
[QUOTE=Hit Man X;20572069]Stabil makes a cylinder fogger that lubes up the cyls. WD40 only removes water, hence its name, and not really good to lube a top end to me.
I use that only on bringing back engines that have sat for nearly two decades.[/QUOT
I don't figure using WD-40 on it can hurt anything. It actually has more uses than what you said. Heck I keep a can of it in the shower and on my nightstand next to my bed in the bedroom. Good stuff!!!
I'd use Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam fogging spray. WD40 would not be my first choice.
If things check out alright with a bore scope, I'd go ahead and try to get it to run and see what happens.
Make sure it will make several complete rotations not just move before attempting to start.
I have already ordered a cheap bscope camera so I can look into the cylinders. I have the intake off and it's just the right front cylinder that got the water. There is rust around the intake valve. I have turned the engine back and forth through about 1 revolution. This is a performance rebuilt engine with very few miles on it. I'm thinking about unbolting the rocker arm on the cylinder that the water got in so the exhaust valve will close and taking the intake valve loose and filling the cylinder with vinegar and flushing it on out after a day or so then following with what you recommend. After all it's already had water in it so I can put more water through it to flush out any loose rust.
So if you want this fixed, then why aren't you removing the heads, its a $50 gasket set, vs a sloppy chance at a hope and prayer, with vinegar, because rings are rusted, could have been blown head gasket, or cracked head, it may be too late, how long did it sit with hood up?
So if you want this fixed, then why aren't you removing the heads, its a $50 gasket set, vs a sloppy chance at a hope and prayer, with vinegar, because rings are rusted, could have been blown head gasket, or cracked head, it may be too late, how long did it sit with hood up?
It was a perfectly running new motor when it fell into a state of neglect. The water got in because a bolt was left out of the intake manifold. And the gasket leaked. I know for a fact that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the motor. As long as I can stick my bscope camera into the cylinder and see the damage in the one cylinder and verify that the damage can be remediated without removing the head why would I remove it?.
I am 100% with torq’ta on this. Pull the heads to see if there is any damage to the cylinders. If there was water sitting in the heads, you should go through them to check for damage.
If it turns over ok, you may be fine, but turning it over dry with rust in the cylinder is a very risky proposition. I'd soak with Marvel Mystery Oil, and then turn over with spark plugs out, as mentioned above. After you get it running do a compression check and look for variation between cylinders. If the compression check is good, you dodged a bullet.
As long as I can stick my bscope camera into the cylinder and see the damage in the one cylinder and verify that the damage can be remediated without removing the head why would I remove it?.
how long was the hood up, a day, week, month, it will make a difference if a ring slides in rust, or breaks, and digs into block, and you cant see that with scope, until its too lake, Myford, wwhite, gnr22, conanski will all help you get torque sequence right, gastket set for, your half way there, with valve cover, and intake gasket, and you can see the other 4 cylinders, if they have rust also, good luck, what ever you do, can you post pics, I've never heard the vinegar trick, for cylinders, we do it for stailess steel liners at work, if not dried they get rust on them(china steel), if they sit long 2weeks, then 10oz of muriatic acid, and 122oz of water, spray sit 1 minute, pressure wash off.
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