Are there any home electricians not automotive ones. But actual home electricians that are members on here?? I need some help clearing things up with my house. The guy that was helping me keeps changing what hes telling me and tbh its getting annoying. I need someone i can message and get straight advice and answers.

 

What do you need to know? I am a licensed Electrician.

 

Sweet. Little background. I bought a house that was built in 1950. Recently was powerwashing the house. Was trying to stay away from the power service lines but i guess some of the spray got to them and caused them to spark/arc. Had a friend of a friend come look and told me the wires from the weather head were bare and needed replaced. Also had to have the service cut that day because it was a fire hazard. He also told me nothing was to code even for then and needed to be updated.

Currently i supposedly have a 100amp meter base (with a 200 amp meter in it). And a 100 amp breaker panel inside.

Originally he told me to "bring it to code" i need to replace both, install a 2" mast and upgrade to 4/0 aluminum wire from the weather head to the meter box. That we could upgrade the meter base, wiring to the weather head for now to bring that to code and fix the rest later.

but Then it turned into i need a 1-1/2" piping for the mast. And now that i got the 4/0 aluminum wire its now apparently turned into that i need 8ga wire for the meter base to the weather head. Also says That i cant upgrade the meter base or the breaker panel to the 200 amp to meet current code. And that no matter what ill fail inspection. (Ohh also picks at the piping to the inside panel despite the original pipe being the same stuff that he claimed was to code).

so im all confused. Of what i know. 8 ga is no where near sufficient for 200 amp let alone 100 amp service. Whether its copper or aluminum. I can send pictures of what it currently looks like that hes claiming isnt to code.

 

You don't need a 200 amp service for it to be code, if a 100 amp service is working fine for you now you can put a 100 service and meter back which would only require #2 aluminium wire, pipe size can be 1 1/4" or bigger, you can run it in 2" if you want to. If you want to upgrade to a 200 amp service you will need a 200 amp meter and disconnect, 4/0 aluminium wire and at least 2" pipe. If you only have a 100 amp breaker box you can feed it from a 200 amp service as long as it has a 100 amp main breaker, but it would be a good idea to upgrade to a 200 amp panel as well. Keep in mine though that what passes is up to the local inspector if any. I have seen inspectors fail stuff that is up to code when going by the book and I have also seen them pass what isn't up to code.

 

thanks. At least i know now what i was originally told was right and since then has been a mixture bs.

The current 100 service id say was iffy. but not an expert on that. What i see is Like when the ac or something large kicks on you can watch the lights dim till the initial heavy load drops off. Especially if more than one of them is on at the same time. Like stoves on when the ac kicks on. Or start a load in the dryer at the same time something else is on. Ect ect. I originally asked about upping to 150 or 125. And hed told me no. Just to upgrade to 200 because that was "current code and would need to go to that".

 

Thought maybe some pictures might help. Took awhile to upload them with my parents slow internet.



Currently this is whats in my breaker panel. Im sure thats been upgraded since the 1950s because everything ive found said fuses were popular then not breakers. And i know these particular type breakers are hard to find because i had trouble finding them. (Guy at the store i finally found the replacement at said they were being phased out). The outlets in the house are a mixture of 3 prong grounded and 2 prong not grounded. The 3 and 2 are not on the same circuits though. There is a couple that are 3 prong but not grounded with the 3rd wire because its not there. (Hope to fix that eventually). Been reading i can have those pass by just installing gfi breakers.



Which the guy that was supposed to be helping me with this wanted to throw a fit over the 3 doubles on one side of the box. (Was like that when i bought the house).



Current meter box how its set up.



Im told thats asbestos covered wire.



Also was told the way the wires run from the meter box wasnt to code for even 1950.



Currently powers disconnected. Because i was told it was a fire hazard (see why in last pic.)



The smaller wire there is the "phone line". Not that it works lol.




this is why i was told my house was a fire hazard and had to be disconnected right now or else. Bare wires from the service connection to the weather head.

 

I have upgraded a lot of houses around here that had the service wire ran that way. Since your stove, dryer, and water heater are all electric instead of gas I do reccomend upgrading to a 200 amp service.

 

appreciate all the info and help. Have one more question for now. May have more later lol. Is there a "spec" or code for how many secure ties i need to mount the pipe to the wall?? Like say i needed one every 2 ft or something like that?? When i bought the other parts i had bought 2 bags of 5 ties. But didnt know if 1 would do or not.

 

By code it should be strapped no more than 3' from the box then supported every 10', however I strap it better than that, usually 2-3 straps at least per 10 foot section of conduit.

 

Just an FYI, but if a single length of conduit isn't enough, put the joint as low as possible.

I've seen it done both ways (with the joint high and low), but if something should strike the incoming wire (perhaps a branch) having the joint as low as possible (with normal strapping) means that the load will be borne by the extended conduit, not the pipe joint.

 

took me all day. But finally got the conduit and wires up. Had the meter box on over a week ago. But didnt know i needed the hub part. When i was getting the pieces originally the ppl at the hardware store never mentioned it. Then when i went back for it they were like "ohh yeah they all fit the same." Ummm no they dont. So had to wait a week for the right one to come in.

least that parts done. Just gotta replace the breaker box and wires to and from it. Hoping that will be easier.

but do got another question. I keep looking at whole house surge protectors. Are they worth it??

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-1890-...-AC/1000060733

they got this one at the store near me but didnt know if it was any good or something else would be better. From the install instructions it looks like something i can add at a later date since it just goes into the breaker box. But dont get how it protects the whole house being on a separate breaker. Of if its the right size since im going to a 200amp service.

that was just the one i found there. I do have a GE 200 amp breaker box for inside. I think ge makes one for their boxes (least i hope so) but wasnt finding them locally.

 

everything here comes from the ground up to the meter and into the structure. The power is to a box out near the road right of way with the power lines 240V. to the house in the soil. My former experience is the feed comes to the roof and enters the structure straight down and the roof is sealed. My belief is feeding 240 volts from a pole to the side of a structure is a bad idea. Its ok if you always pay attention to it as you have done here. basically power straight from the Pole out at the road to the side of the house really sux. is a good decision. 200 amp 240 + volt needs for the home & is the correct home install giving room for future needs of EV car chargers. With all of our futures held in suspense considering options, 1, 2, 3 electric vehicles needing to charge over night needs consideration. Most likely 2 - 240 volt services to our homes. things get really touchy when you got possibly service + 440 volts the danger circle of fire grounded explosion is not a good thing. Obviously for home needs the 2 feeds of 240 volts need to be separate, one for the home and one for the chargers. I get awful nervous if is see shinny wires, needing special attention. Copper is good. Aluminum works with special attention.