2011 Escape brake light problem
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
2011 Escape brake light problem
I recently bought a 2011 Escape XLT. I discovered the brake lights don't work.
Let me preface this by saying I'm a retired truck and equipment mechanic. While I never worked on cars much, I can generally fix whatever comes up. The principals are all the same.
So I got to checking into the problem. I have power to the switch. I can run a jumper on the connector and the brakes lights do come on. Simple right, bad switch. But a new switch didn't fix it. In fact I've tried three new switches, the last one being a Ford factory switch. None of them work. I tested all 3 with a multi-meter and none are showing a connection.
Has anybody ever heard of this before or have any idea what the Hell is going on? What am I missing?
Let me preface this by saying I'm a retired truck and equipment mechanic. While I never worked on cars much, I can generally fix whatever comes up. The principals are all the same.
So I got to checking into the problem. I have power to the switch. I can run a jumper on the connector and the brakes lights do come on. Simple right, bad switch. But a new switch didn't fix it. In fact I've tried three new switches, the last one being a Ford factory switch. None of them work. I tested all 3 with a multi-meter and none are showing a connection.
Has anybody ever heard of this before or have any idea what the Hell is going on? What am I missing?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
What am I missing?
1. Do any of the brake lights work (high, corners) when the pedal is pressed?
2. Is the switch being "made" when the pedal is pressed?
3. Which wires did you jump to force the lights on?
4. Which of the four connections on the switch do not show a closed circuit when the switch is "made"? Should be pins1-4 for the stop lamp circuit. Pins 2-3 are normally closed and should open when switch is made.
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
No brake lights work anywhere. Tail, turn signals and flashers all work properly.
I was able to get a schematic of the lighting system.
Looking at the back of the switch when mounted. Left to right
Terminal 1 Violet/ white stripe goes to the brake lights.
Terminals 2 &3 run the shift lock and whatever else.
Terminal 4 Yellow with red stripe is power and goes directly to fuse #2. This wire is hot.
I can run a jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4 and the brake lights do come on.
I've tested all 3 new switches with a multi meter. On all 3 switches terminals 2 &3 are open in the pushed position and make contact in the released position. just as they should
However, terminals 1 &4 do NOT make contact in either position
It keeps coming up as a bad switch. But 3 different brand new switches form 3 separate vendors all being bad? Am I missing something here?
I was able to get a schematic of the lighting system.
Looking at the back of the switch when mounted. Left to right
Terminal 1 Violet/ white stripe goes to the brake lights.
Terminals 2 &3 run the shift lock and whatever else.
Terminal 4 Yellow with red stripe is power and goes directly to fuse #2. This wire is hot.
I can run a jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4 and the brake lights do come on.
I've tested all 3 new switches with a multi meter. On all 3 switches terminals 2 &3 are open in the pushed position and make contact in the released position. just as they should
However, terminals 1 &4 do NOT make contact in either position
It keeps coming up as a bad switch. But 3 different brand new switches form 3 separate vendors all being bad? Am I missing something here?
Last edited by Grayfox54; Sep 24, 2022 at 05:11 PM. Reason: addition info
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
It keeps coming up as a bad switch. But 3 different brand new switches form 3 separate vendors all being bad? Am I missing something here?
I agree, three bad switches in a row. You're doing everything right.
Unless..... there's a problem with the socket/pigtail or the switches are getting fried upon installation.... I'd check the next replacement with a meter before leaving the parts store.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 136
From: Burleson, Tx
Are you able to test it before mounting it?
Kind of sounds loike the switch is not adjusted correctly. I know many vehicles you can turn them in/out to get them close/further form the brake pedal so the plunger/switch touches the pedal arm. I hope that makes sense.
Kind of sounds loike the switch is not adjusted correctly. I know many vehicles you can turn them in/out to get them close/further form the brake pedal so the plunger/switch touches the pedal arm. I hope that makes sense.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2018
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They're working!
I've been fiddling with this thing off and on for a couple of days now. I did replace the switch, a couple of fuses and repaired a couple of wires. But honestly, I can't say exactly what fixed it. All I know is they're working now.
I still can't figure out why several different switches never showed a connection in either position with the multi-meter?
BTW: there is no adjustment on the switch. It just fits in the bracket and turns to lock.
I've been fiddling with this thing off and on for a couple of days now. I did replace the switch, a couple of fuses and repaired a couple of wires. But honestly, I can't say exactly what fixed it. All I know is they're working now.
I still can't figure out why several different switches never showed a connection in either position with the multi-meter?
BTW: there is no adjustment on the switch. It just fits in the bracket and turns to lock.
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