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All,
here’s a Question for those that have upgraded their 302 engines -
ive got a set of Edelbrock E street heads ready to install on my NA 1984 F150 302W.
plus - a Comp Cams Extreme Energy hydraulic flat tappet cam.
the rockers haven’t been purchased yet and neither have the hardened steel pushrods.
Question- simply - How do I determine the pushrod length I need?
I am thinking I’ll need to install the rockers and the camshaft and then use an adjustable pushrod to get the proper length measured and THEN order the appropriate length hardened steel pushrod set.
i think the stock pushrod length for the stock configuration is 6.900 inch but I seriously doubt stock length pushrods, although they’d probably work, certainly wouldn’t be the best choice
Your new heads will have guide plates and adjustable rocker arms correct? So the length is not as critical, since you now have a adjustable valve train. So long as the geometry is close. When the valve is open you want the rocker to be close to center on the valve tip.
Your new heads will have guide plates and adjustable rocker arms correct? So the length is not as critical, since you now have a adjustable valve train. So long as the geometry is close. When the valve is open you want the rocker to be close to center on the valve tip.
I would call edelbrock if in doubt.
The Edelbrock (5103) E Street aluminum heads are assembled but they do not include rocker arms or pushrods. I need to purchase rocker arms and pushrods separately.
The Edelbrock (5103) E Street aluminum heads are assembled but they do not include rocker arms or pushrods. .
ALUMINUM HEADS?? Do they provide you with the head gaskets? Or any special instructions? With all the trouble Ford and other companies had with aluminum heads when they first became available you would need different head gaskets.
Your new heads will have guide plates and adjustable rocker arms correct? So the length is not as critical, since you now have a adjustable valve train. So long as the geometry is close. When the valve is open you want the rocker to be close to center on the valve tip.
I would call edelbrock if in doubt.
yes, you’re correct. After doing some more reading - with the hydraulic flat tappet camshaft I have, I adjust each rocker / valve for zero lash and therefore, pushrod length shouldn’t be critical.
thank you
ALUMINUM HEADS?? Do they provide you with the head gaskets? Or any special instructions? With all the trouble Ford and other companies had with aluminum heads when they first became available you would need different head gaskets.
aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads for the 302 have been around for 40 years +
Gasket selection is simple (you’re definately not going to use the same type OEM head gaskets) but like every other mechanical assembly, surface preparation is critical as is replacement of those 40 year old head bolts (that have gone through thousands of heat cycles) with new, quality fasteners and proper torque techniques and values.
yes, you’re correct. After doing some more reading - with the hydraulic flat tappet camshaft I have, I adjust each rocker / valve for zero lash and therefore, pushrod length shouldn’t be critical.
thank you
Stock length would be a place to start, but with all that aftermarket stuff put together you still need to eyeball the geometry when it's all put together. If you use roller rockers, you do not want the back of the rocker where the pushrod goes kicked way up in the air, and the roller half-way off the valve tip. The other extreme would be the pushrod end being very short, and again the roller end would be way over to the side of the valve tip. You would think these people would have their act together and try to stay somewhat close to what the factory had as far as length, but things happen sometimes. Blocks get milled, valve tips get ground, heads get decked, etc.
Stock length would be a place to start, but with all that aftermarket stuff put together you still need to eyeball the geometry when it's all put together.
So why start with stock length and then eyeball it to make sure everything is sitting where it should? Why not use an adjustable pushrod checker on an intake and an exhaust valve to actually make the pushrod the necessary length and then order the correct part from the start?
So why start with stock length and then eyeball it to make sure everything is sitting where it should? Why not use an adjustable pushrod checker on an intake and an exhaust valve to actually make the pushrod the necessary length and then order the correct part from the start?
Because maybe he has some stock ones laying around? Otherwise the checker would be the way to go. Of course the stock one would be just to check things out, he could not use the stock pushrods with the guide plates.
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