....but I don't think so?

New to me 2002 F350 with the ZF6. Balky clutch/trans where R and 1/granny are really difficult to get into gear when stationary (when truck is running) but will go in easier if I am moving ever so slightly. Second is nearly 100% grind, although it goes in smoothly if I start in N and shift up (mostly, but there are times where it clunks hard or lightly grinds). Clutch releases/engages when the pedal is really close to the floor. PrevOwner replaced the master/slave assembly - probably thinking it would solve the hard shift/grind. Clutch res is full with fresh fluid. Transmission is full also - although I am not sure what ATF is in there.

Starting the engine in R/1/2 causes no problems and everything works as it should. Once in 2, shifting to 3 is smooth. Since I am avoiding 2, I cant speak to a 2-1 downshift at this time. For the time being, I am doing the 1-3 thing.

My now retired e99 has a new SB clutch (about 10k miles) and the trans doesnt give me any issues (aside from a grind on OD to 4 if I'm coming in hot). Initially I was going to swap the e99 clutch/trans into the 2002, and then on a more relaxed timetable look into what the 2002 issue really is.

Before I got too excited to start dropping and swapping now that I am back to home base, I have been digging in to see if I can really identify the issue. Maybe it wont be necessary to swap if it is a fork/throw-out/pilot bearing problem - which could be addressed by sliding the transmission back a foot instead of a drop.

Although I did a quick check early on, I revisited the clutch pedal/master cylinder actuation. A video is attached. The first few moments is pushing the pedal until one can feel resistance, the last part is pushing it all the way to the floor. Nothing looks out of the ordinary to me. Initial pedal travel before you can feel pushback seems normal (about 1"-ish of push?). Resistance through the stroke is constant, and nothing feels funny at the bottom of the stroke.

To me it doesn't look like a Heim mod is required - it looks pretty tight and likely isn't causing my problems. Concur or disagree?

Thanks guys and gals!

 

Is that the back of the master cylinder that's broken? Not saying it's your fix by any means, I just zoomed in for a better look and see something is broke.

 

Looks like the bird cage is just fine in your video. From your symptoms I'm leaning to a clutch fork. You can pull the slave cyl out of the transmission and measure from the fork to the face where the cylinder goes in - around 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" is the desired measurement off the top of my head.

 

It certainly looks like that housing is cracked!

 

By “bird cage” do you mean the part that contains the push rod?

I stuck my borescope in there to look around. The thing hit the fork at 2 5/8. I didn’t see anything obvious, but it wasn’t easy to get a clear image of the length of the fork to see if there was a bend or crack.