I searched the past bullnose forums for this answer to no avail…

I took the latch off a few weeks ago and used Dave’s ATF fluid IV to lubricate the cable and get it operating easier… which was successful. I put the cable back in and reassembled it… no issues there either. Shut it and latched it to test the hood pull… again successful and smoother then before the ATF treatment.

Today I tried to shut it and it wouldn’t latch shut.

I checked to make sure nothing was on the ledge
- checked to make sure the latch actually worked with my finger, it did
- checked to make sure there was nothing in the hood blocking anything, nope
- checked to make sure the lock was aligned with the hole and the latch plate was there, yup
- unbolted the lock and raised and lowered it trying different heights, no luck
- lowered the side studs to make sure they were not blocking it

It sounds like something is hitting the hood somewhere that Is stopping it from going down the last little bit, but for the life of me I can’t find what or where because it only does it when it is 99% closed…

I even painted inside the holes where the 2 laches go in to see if slamming the hood would leave a mark… nothing!

Has anyone had this issue or have any ideas? Could I have bent the hood somehow just a little that is causing it? I am at a loss… I can post any pictures you wan to see… I’ll even make a video if that can be posted…

 

That latch looks like it is already closed.
Pull the cable and see if it opens. You may need a helper to pull the cable as you move the latch.

Not that this will make it latch but it looks like you have 2 flat washers under 1 bolt and none under the other?
Good to hear the ATF on the cable worked.
I used the same trick on mine but also on Ebrake cables on a car that is hard to get parts for and worked great then also.
Dave ----

 

Unfortunately that is in the open position, you can see the top part of the latch just peaking out. I can take my finger and relatively easily push that down into the closed position, where it locks…. And the np opens when the hood release is pulled in the cab (springs back up).

I just added that double washer yesterday, that particular screw is striped when it all the way in, so adding the washed pushed it back a little so threads would grab… I needed to make sure the latch wouldn’t move around.

 

Maybe the hood is hitting that bolt head because it is sticking out more?
Put a little masking tape on it and try closing the hood.
If it hits the bolt head the tape will have a mark on it.
Dave ----

 

looking at the markings on the bolt hole slots on the latch assembly,it may just need to be adjusted down to be back in the original position.

 

He adjusted up up in hope of it latching, did not latch.
He also dropped down the 2 front corner stops thinking they were holding it up.

I think it is that bolt with the 2 flat washers sticking out too far and keeping the hood from closing.
Dave ----

 

Good observations, it does look like it is out of position, but that is just because that is the last spot I’ve had it. I have gone all the way up and all the way down and it still hasn’t latched.

I will put some tape on the double washer Dave, that is a good idea. I think they are below the radiator level to start, so it is unlikely that that is the issue, but at this point I’m ruling nothing out. It is a pretty simple device, that is what is so frustrating about it.

 

The other thing I was thinking of is to undo the latch and drop it down behind the grille so it is not in play and see if the hood closes all the way down.
If it dose then you it is something with the latch / hood assy.

Other than the cowl you R&R for clean out what else was done close to the hood?
Dave ----

 

that is a good idea as well… clear the latch out of the way all together and see if I keep getting that hard stop bang…

I can’t imagine it is the cowl, that would give me more of a resistance then a hard stop “bang”… it sounds like I’m shutting on a piece steel, and I put weight on it. I did end up having to sit on the hood at one point to get the passenger wiper linkage hooked back on (those caps are a bear to get on and off)… I may have caused some kind of deformation on the hood, but it isn’t obvious if I did.

I took the whole grill off and put it back on but clearly I looked up and down the front and it wasn’t bottoming out on that, the gap was pretty small, but there was still an air gap.

I had family over today and didn’t get a chance to trouble shoot like I wanted… hopefully tomorrow I can try the things we’ve discussed. 👍🏻

 

On many of these classic vehicles, the latch doesn't just move up and down , but also side to side. Either that, or the loop in the hood can be adjusted. Do the tape test, and adjust accordingly. Also, the latch may not be truly vertical and need to be rotated (probably counterclockwise viewed from the front). The cars were "fitted" on the line due to imperfections in building.

 

Thanks for the ideas gents… after replacing the bolts and positioning it every way imaginable… I figured out the the latch was closing but not really latching, so I think what it was hitting was the latch post and then it would just release. I more or less pumped the handle in and out a few times and could get it to latch, but that clearly isn’t good either.

Is there a way to adjust that? I had to take the cable off for the oil treatment on the cable… is it possible to reinstall the cable wrong? Or meet up some kind of adjustment?

 

I don't think you can do the cable wrong but been years since I played with mine. When I get time will look at mine to see but think there is only 1 way it goes.

With the latch out of the way adjust the 2 front corner bump stops so when the hood is closed it is even with the top of the fenders. You may need to push down on the hood to make sure it is on the stops.

Then adjust the latch to keep the hood closed.
Dave ----

 

I just went out and took these for reference.