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I purchased a used turbo from a local eBay seller which I am rebuilding with a KC Balanced Assembly DIY Kit.
So far I blasted the rust off the exhaust and center cartridge and painted both with VHT “flameproof” primer and paint. During the blasting process I went a bit nuts and cleaned the inside of the snail including the wastegate. I flattened the round gate bottom and mating surface on the housing but I’m worried about the ability of the actuator to pull back on the gate to maintain a seal.
I thought about welding the hole shut (I’d leave the gate as is to move back and forth) since I’m a stock truck but I’ve read that can damage the engine.
I’ve also read about shortening the length of the actuator (see technical articles) by 7.5 turns but didn’t understand the discussion about the gate getting stuck.
Great progress on getting it cleaned up and bringing it back to life.
Don't be concerned about damage by closing the wastegate permanently or temporarily. Your stock tuning will not allow for anything over about 25 PSI of boost. You will likely get that high with fresh parts and a KC kit, in which case there will be a short CEL and a period of "defueling".
Since you are in CA, you could get a boost fooler like the Riffraff OCR and simply remove it when having the truck tested. Or, you could take your chances with a Hydra like many other CA residents have.
FWIW David, most T4 conversions do not even bother with the wastegate. The 7.3 PSD is fueling-limited (amongst many other things) so one seldom has to worry about an overboost situation.
Do I have to drill out the dimples to be able to turn the rod in the threads? I applied penetrating oil but it’s not moving at all and I’m afraid I’ll snap it if I torque any more.
Do I have to drill out the dimples to be able to turn the rod in the threads? I applied penetrating oil but it’s not moving at all and I’m afraid I’ll snap it if I torque any more.
YES!!! It will snap, I have that trophy. The dimples (staking) needs drilled out so it can turn.
