(I posted this in the wrong tread at first but this should be the right one)
Well this is my first time posting on this forum, but I hope I can get some helpful advice. I own a 1995.5 Ford F-350 With the 7.3 Powerstroke. I just finished a 12 hour road trip (900 miles) and about 10 hours in I had a check engine light pop up, so I continued driving but I had a lack of power and could only do about 40 MPH up hills, once I got to my destination I ran the codes and I had a laundry list to go through but the ones that concerned me were codes ( P1280,P1212,P1211,P0113) all seeming to deal with my ICP, I have a new one of the way but I would like some input as to what I can do, I'll put the other codes that popped up so if anyone knows common fixes they can help me, P0472, P0344, P0236,P0340,P0237. whatever input helps. It also seems the new one I bought did not have the right connector so I would also like to know where to get a good one, Thanks!

 

Hi Will. Welcome to the ford trucks forums. Clay at RiffRaff diesel will have the parts you need, and he is a sponsor of this forum. I would clear the codes and take the truck for a short drive, then check for codes again, The P0340, and P0344 are for the CPS. You might check the wiring to the CPS for bare wires. There was a recall from Ford several years ago for the CPS. You might check with a ford store, and have them run your trucks Vin to see if the recall was done. That said, the crank sensor is fairly cheap, around 20 bucks, so you might just pick up a new one. Use a Motorcraft or Navistar one only, as parts store ones don't play nice with these engines. And it doesn't hurt to have a spare, as they are known to go bad at the most inopportune times.

 

I do have another CPS on the way and I did clear the codes and P1211 came back and P0344,P0340 showed up ( those referring to the CPS). I think there may be a kind of combination thing happening but we'll see when I replace the CPS

 

Check your valve cover gasket connections.

 

After replacing the CPS and the ICP it started way easier but took a while for oil pressure when cranking, once it got oil pressure then the truck would start, after a little bit of driving the check engine light would come on and it would show code p1211( ICP above/ below desired) and if I drove a little more and then put it in park it would stall when trying to put it back into drive then it won't start for about an hour, I just did and oil change and that helped it start faster, it gets oil pressure way faster. I'm about to send the oil to get tested to see how my motor is doing.

 

Pull the IPR & check the o ring on the small end . If that is good it may be an injector Oring .

 

I have replaced the IPR now, I decided to replace it because it had oil coming through the connector. It started a bit easier but it was still hard to start and it only ran for about 2 minutes before starting to bog down then it died and it won't start again. I did an oil analysis to see if there was diesel in the oil messing up the HPOP but there was basically none in the oil. So now that I've replaced the easy stuff ( which had all failed anyway and needed replacing) I'm gonna look at the more expensive/harder things to replace like the HPOP or the PCM. My plan is to first just either buy or rent a mechanical oil gauge and see if it's putting out the pressure that's needed, if not I'll replace it but if it is I may need to replace the PCM but I would like to test it to make sure it is actually bad so I don't replace something that's not broken. I have started to wonder if it is the PCM recently because I did put a Hydra Tuner on the truck a couple months ago. I do still get a code for a intermittent Crankshaft position senor but I replaced the sensor and I found no breaks in the wires either so if i could get some help on that aswell

 

Before starting to replace al these things it had the hard start and roughish idle, but the most annoying thing was once it got up to operating temperature the check engine light would come on and then it would have a lackof power and if I tried to put it in reverse ( automatic transmission) it would stall out and then not start again for about an hour. does anyone know about this and could help me fix it?

 

pull fuel filter and see if its dark (usually light tan) , usually the oil goes into the fuel when injectors orings leak

IPR can cause no start when hot but you replaced it.

check IPR duty cycle when running, if it starts to climb when it stalls, you have a leak in there some where

 

How do I check the duty cycle? I've tried looking it up but I can't really find anything useful

 

the scanner you used to get codes should be able to monitor PCM values

 

https://dieseliq.com/power-stroke-obd-ii-code-p1211/

 

I've checked it and with key on the IPR reads 15% and at idle its 25-30% and when full throttle it goes to about 55%

 

I just check the under the drives side valve cover and I see no oil leaks on the injectors, is it a problem if all the tops of my injectors are black?

 

How do I check the HPOP pressure?