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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

replace my radiator?

Old Aug 26, 2022 | 07:33 PM
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From: pine city washington
replace my radiator?

my engine got real hot and blew the radiator cap off last winter. spewed coolant everywhere. the passenger cylinder had a blown head gasket and no. 5 exhaust valve burned. got those fixed should i change the radiator at this time? i am taking the passenger side off next month. it is 40 miles away and in a field at my father's house. gas is expensive.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2022 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dremtofford
my engine got real hot and blew the radiator cap off last winter. spewed coolant everywhere. the passenger cylinder had a blown head gasket and no. 5 exhaust valve burned. got those fixed should i change the radiator at this time? i am taking the passenger side off next month. it is 40 miles away and in a field at my father's house. gas is expensive.
i dont understand how the radiator would be inline for repair unless you think there is debris logged in it that is not able to flush out
 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 03:24 PM
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Radiator repairs are relatively cheap compared to everything else. $100 at a radiator ship will usually get the radiator top and bottom removed and demineralized of all the silicates that drop out of suspension. Nothing is worse than having a truck that can't do work because of cooling issues.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 03:47 PM
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try shining a light through radiator cap hole and see if you see a lot of rust/sediment, in bottom, could fill with distilled water, let idle, then empty, out and repeat until it stops, did it sit long before you got it?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
Radiator repairs are relatively cheap compared to everything else. $100 at a radiator ship will usually get the radiator top and bottom removed and demineralized of all the silicates that drop out of suspension. Nothing is worse than having a truck that can't do work because of cooling issues.
are you talking about brass ones or aluminum? I know you CAN do work on aluminum rads but the replacement cost of aluminum makes it kinda moot for a lot. I dont think the OP Would have a brass one but maybe?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 07:12 AM
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Well, what caused it to get hot?
Was the antifreeze mix wrong and let the coolant get slushy? Thus causing the gasket problem and overheat.
Or do you think the gasket went first then pushed exhaust into the cooling system?

I had a overheat last winter and of course it was the coldest day of the year ( no joke it was like -38 before adding the wind chill that morning). And i knew the coolant mix was weak from adding different amounts of water and coolant because the radiator had a leak but only in the winter. I think the seal between the plastic jugs and aluminum core shrink in the cold at night because of the age. Because once it is at temp the drips stop.
On a side note, once the coolant in the block started circulating through the heater core i could have driven in my skivvies, never had heat that good. Just didnt thaw the radiator before changing to steam and steam blasting the core clean lol.
So now that you posted this i suppose i need to put the spare that is sitting in my shed in the truck before winter.... ya know it hasnt leaked a drop since the weather has been above 35.....
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
Well, what caused it to get hot?
Was the antifreeze mix wrong and let the coolant get slushy? Thus causing the gasket problem and overheat.
Or do you think the gasket went first then pushed exhaust into the cooling system?

I had a overheat last winter and of course it was the coldest day of the year ( no joke it was like -38 before adding the wind chill that morning). And i knew the coolant mix was weak from adding different amounts of water and coolant because the radiator had a leak but only in the winter. I think the seal between the plastic jugs and aluminum core shrink in the cold at night because of the age. Because once it is at temp the drips stop.
On a side note, once the coolant in the block started circulating through the heater core i could have driven in my skivvies, never had heat that good. Just didnt thaw the radiator before changing to steam and steam blasting the core clean lol.
So now that you posted this i suppose i need to put the spare that is sitting in my shed in the truck before winter.... ya know it hasnt leaked a drop since the weather has been above 35.....
Reminds me of me

reminds me of me, this was about -20 or so and I GOT LUCKY and remembered I Had a mostly water coolant fill from doing some flushing a month before and forgto to follow up with a winter fill (Needed way more, but would wwait till spring) My cap had a lot of slushie ooze out when I checked, i capped it to prevent it from freezing instantly lol, plugged in block heater and then also gave it 2 hours, then started, it was able to flow thankfully, then once it was warm, popped that radiator drain
 
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