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This is for a 1990 F250 manual trans, 5.0L 4x4.
I was driving the truck the other day, it was actually driving pretty well. Then all of a sudden at a stop light dash lights went out and the car died. Tried to restart and it would turn crank but not turn over.
Had it towed home and started to look into what the heck happened. After a lot of testing and head scratching, I decided it might be the EEC and the dreaded leaking capacitors. Opened it up and sure enough two were leaking, not bad enough to destroy the board.
So, on to my question. Yes I know I can just replace the capacitors, I have the skill to do that. But.....after looking to just replacing it with a remanufactured one, they are only about $100 from the big box stores. That is if you get the right one.
Here is the REAL question. The OEM part number is F0TF-12A650-T2A and the replacement ones are F0TF-12A650-TA. Does anyone know if that 2 in between the T and the A is a deal breaker?
The remanufactured ones with the 2 in the number are $360 and not from a big box stores. That price difference makes it were I'll just replace the capacitors, but sure would be nice to plug and play.
I know the EEC capacitor cause all kind of problems, but nothing consistent that I can find. If anyone has info that says "if this capacitor is bad, then...... " that would be great too.
Just looking for some feedback
Last edited by ablatnik; Aug 29, 2022 at 11:06 PM.
Thanks for responses. Let me update what we, my son and I, did. We look at power distribution and ground items.
We thought that something in the cylinder switch went out since we did not have any power going to the fuel pump in the run position and no power going to the accessories.
Also, there was no power going to the wipers or the power windows. We replaced the switch and still same problem.
We checked and fuel pump and eec relays and their corresponding connectors but had power going to both.
That's when we thought maybe the EEC.
We just got the capacitors to fix the EEC. I'll update when that gets done.
You can jumper pins 2 & 6 on the diagnostic link under the hood then turn the key to the Run position to bypass the computer for energizing the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump turns on then you can look at the computer as the cause.
If the fuel pump does not turn on then you have a power supply or ground issue for that circuit. The relay sockets on this vintage truck are known to grow green corrosion that cause all kinds of weird issues like yours.
There is no “cylinder switch”. You have an ignition switch and a separate lock cylinder.
Yes that is what I meant to say. We replaced the ignition switch that is controlled by a metal rod that runs down the steering column from the lock cylinder.
The PO installed a push button start switch on the dash. So the key has to be in run position to activate the button.
I have not looked at the wiring to the push button, since it has worked fine. I guess there could be some kind of grounding issue in that line.
You can jumper pins 2 & 6 on the diagnostic link under the hood then turn the key to the Run position to bypass the computer for energizing the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump turns on then you can look at the computer as the cause.
If the fuel pump does not turn on then you have a power supply or ground issue for that circuit. The relay sockets on this vintage truck are known to grow green corrosion that cause all kinds of weird issues like yours.
Some info about hose test port pins from Subford:
Great info. I'll get to that today and see what happens.
Thanks
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