Full Bulletproof
Jack, in your highly valued, educated opinion, if one were looking to do the absolute best job they could at mitigating HG failure, what would be your recommendation for heads? O-ringed yes, but would seasoned, commonized heads be better than a new set of aftermarket ones with added support?
Jack, in your highly valued, educated opinion, if one were looking to do the absolute best job they could at mitigating HG failure, what would be your recommendation for heads? O-ringed yes, but would seasoned, commonized heads be better than a new set of aftermarket ones with added support?
Since I don't feel the need to use a tune, I'm expecting to be OK with the heads I have without o-rings. Having pulled the engine out and redoing it, I'm not intimidated if I had to do heads or another engine build. If I were replacing heads, I'd pull the engine and do it on the stand. (I hate opening up an engine outside). So my perspective is a little different.
From my career Chis, I'm always skeptical of the aftermarket. I think KDD has done all the right things with their ICON heads, but I'm nervous that it's an aluminum product in a direct iron replacement. They may be fine, as Jason says, but I need more long-term experience. Yes, they ran them on a chassis dyno; they ran them in the field. But I've watched Ford et al. doing much more dyno and fieldwork for a few years, and still they FU.
There appears there might be some iron heads being cast like them for the aftermarket, but I haven't seen any long-term results. I read some of the reviews of those casting, and I'm not impressed. Some say they are fine, but others talk about flash or other issues they had to correct.
UFC gives a lifetime warranty with their rebuilt heads, seasoned and o-ringed. However, I've seen lately that they do not have the inventory they used to have. Along with the 18 and 20mm heads, they also have a listing for the 20mm service heads I have, but those are usually out of stock.
O-rings seem to do a great job sealing the 18mm and 20mm factory heads under most circumstances. However, if it's an aftermarket casting, you have to trust their supplier to ensure the castings do not come to you with issues. And if the internal casting is like what the 18mm or 20mm heads are. It's easy to make the changes to the 18mm machining and call them 20mm.
After 5 years of ownership, and all warranty coverage expired, I knew the risks and took a chance. I know a number of the "high-horsepower" crowd and took as many precautions as we knew to take back then, with the exception of having the heads o-ringed. One reason why I stayed with stock injectors. Lots of people took things a lot further than I did.
Since I don't feel the need to use a tune, I'm expecting to be OK with the heads I have without o-rings. Having pulled the engine out and redoing it, I'm not intimidated if I had to do heads or another engine build. If I were replacing heads, I'd pull the engine and do it on the stand. (I hate opening up an engine outside). So my perspective is a little different.
From my career Chis, I'm always skeptical of the aftermarket. I think KDD has done all the right things with their ICON heads, but I'm nervous that it's an aluminum product in a direct iron replacement. They may be fine, as Jason says, but I need more long-term experience. Yes, they ran them on a chassis dyno; they ran them in the field. But I've watched Ford et al. doing much more dyno and fieldwork for a few years, and still they FU.
There appears there might be some iron heads being cast like them for the aftermarket, but I haven't seen any long-term results. I read some of the reviews of those casting, and I'm not impressed. Some say they are fine, but others talk about flash or other issues they had to correct.
UFC gives a lifetime warranty with their rebuilt heads, seasoned and o-ringed. However, I've seen lately that they do not have the inventory they used to have. Along with the 18 and 20mm heads, they also have a listing for the 20mm service heads I have, but those are usually out of stock.
O-rings seem to do a great job sealing the 18mm and 20mm factory heads under most circumstances. However, if it's an aftermarket casting, you have to trust their supplier to ensure the castings do not come to you with issues. And if the internal casting is like what the 18mm or 20mm heads are. It's easy to make the changes to the 18mm machining and call them 20mm.
UFC is probably the direction I'm heading if they have what I need when the time comes. I am also keeping stock tuning, though I want an early one that doesn't infer the EBP, has more power, and hopefully better fuel economy. Not a big fan of aluminum mostly because I worry about stripping threaded holes, or the higher risk involved in removing a broken exhaust manifold stud. I also have a healthy distrust of aftermarket. You never really know where the castings are coming from. All KDD says about the Icon castings is that they aren't made in China. I will say, however, in perusing their 6.0 Icon heads page, it appears they are using a 6.4 casting for the 6.0 heads. If they ever make them in cast iron I might bite on that.
I was looking on your youtube channel for the video you made about the evolution of Ford's 6.0 heads, and the differences between injector hold downs, rocker arms, etc, but couldn't find it. I am wondering what additional costs would be incurred moving up to the 20mm heads. I am also now wondering what's special about the 20mm service heads.
One of my least viewed videos. Maybe people don't like Bon Jovi. But I pick songs for the topic. Bon Jovi - Living on a prayer.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I would suggest watching my video.
-rocker boxes
-rocker box bolts
-rocker arms
-injector hold downs
-oil rails which includes passengers side valve cover, stand pipes, and rewiring harness for ICP
Not sure if the newer stand pipes are compatible with the older style oil lines. I'm guessing not.
With an '03, it's just easier to use 18mm O-ringed heads.
I agree 100% with this statement.
I did hot rod mine for a little while, but in the end the tow tune remains forever. I spent way too much money and time yanking this engine out and building it for longevity, to destroy it because I now can have 600HP with the help of a tune.....not worth it.















