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If I were the OP I would have it fixed. I touched a box corner on mine this summer under my enclosed gooseneck. BLM decided to make some new, aggressive drainages on the road getting into a campground. No way around them either. I had very little damage, but still ripped the metal about 1". The box sides are just so damn tall. I've wanted a flatbed and it pushed me to try harder at making that happen within the next year.
If I were the OP I would have it fixed. I touched a box corner on mine this summer under my enclosed gooseneck. BLM decided to make some new, aggressive drainages on the road getting into a campground. No way around them either. I had very little damage, but still ripped the metal about 1". The box sides are just so damn tall. I've wanted a flatbed and it pushed me to try harder at making that happen within the next year.
I had to raise the trailer up in front for the new truck by dropping the hitch on the trailer down 2 inches, I think most are adjustable. I would have bed damage had I left it set the same as what worked on the 2012. The trailer still rides level and I have decent bed clearance now.
I raised up the trailer from the 2012 the prior owner of the trailer had it on. There is good clearance except in an exceptionally tight setting. I’ve been in a lot of them, and haven’t had an issue. Steep driveways, sharp turns. It took a special combination of a sharp turn and an angulation in camber that was pretty extreme.
Agree, a flatbread would solve this issue. I’m thinking f450 with a flatbed for the next truck. For this one with the SRW short bed I think that’d look goofy.
So far there’s a split of people who would fix it and those that would leave it, with more towards fixing it. The thing is, the truck works. I’m not convinced this will be the last trauma to the bed.
Thanks those that think this is more like a $2k repair, that puts me at ease if I go to do it.
I think I’ll let it slide for a few weeks and see how I feel before doing anything. It is the only ding on the truck 55,000 miles in with 16,000 towing this trailer, so maybe it’s worth it.
As for the old style vs new style trailer, here’s a pic of a early 2000’s trailer vs my current trailer that did it, a 2012. I bought the used trailer to avoid the wait on a new one, but the current year sundowners have the same clearance as the 2012. The switchover to “high bed truck” styles was somewhere between.
I raised up the trailer from the 2012 the prior owner of the trailer had it on. There is good clearance except in an exceptionally tight setting. I’ve been in a lot of them, and haven’t had an issue. Steep driveways, sharp turns. It took a special combination of a sharp turn and an angulation in camber that was pretty extreme.
Agree, a flatbread would solve this issue. I’m thinking f450 with a flatbed for the next truck. For this one with the SRW short bed I think that’d look goofy.
So far there’s a split of people who would fix it and those that would leave it, with more towards fixing it. The thing is, the truck works. I’m not convinced this will be the last trauma to the bed.
Thanks those that think this is more like a $2k repair, that puts me at ease if I go to do it.
I think I’ll let it slide for a few weeks and see how I feel before doing anything. It is the only ding on the truck 55,000 miles in with 16,000 towing this trailer, so maybe it’s worth it.
As for the old style vs new style trailer, here’s a pic of a early 2000’s trailer vs my current trailer that did it, a 2012. I bought the used trailer to avoid the wait on a new one, but the current year sundowners have the same clearance as the 2012. The switchover to “high bed truck” styles was somewhere between.
i've been tossing the idea around of a service bed for mine. it is kinda awkard being a short bed though. truck looks great man.
I had to raise the trailer up in front for the new truck by dropping the hitch on the trailer down 2 inches, I think most are adjustable. I would have bed damage had I left it set the same as what worked on the 2012. The trailer still rides level and I have decent bed clearance now.
My trailer hitch is adjustable too. Normally I have 6" of clearance to the bed side and the trailer sits pretty level. If I raise it up in the front much I'd have to jack the axles up too. With triple torsion axles it starts to load the rear axle more. And I already have to jack the front end up so high to hook up to the truck that it almost lifts the front trailer tires off the ground.
My trailer hitch is adjustable too. Normally I have 6" of clearance to the bed side and the trailer sits pretty level. If I raise it up in the front much I'd have to jack the axles up too. With triple torsion axles it starts to load the rear axle more. And I already have to jack the front end up so high to hook up to the truck that it almost lifts the front trailer tires off the ground.
i adjusted the goosneck I use as well to make it clear better, and same issue....rear axle equalizer is pretty much bottomed out
I was wondering how often crap like that happened with goosenecks.
I lowered my 2020 by an inch and a half, jacked up my trailer by about 4 inches and still barely get down my driveway in the sierra foothills, the combination of turning and hitting a 1:4 downhill grade puts the trailer crossmembers about a foot below the bed sides, if you don't come in at a very very specific angle your going to have a bad day.. can't believe I never took out one side or the other..
I had to raise the trailer up in front for the new truck by dropping the hitch on the trailer down 2 inches, I think most are adjustable. I would have bed damage had I left it set the same as what worked on the 2012. The trailer still rides level and I have decent bed clearance now.
The problem with just jacking up the neck is that it causes the wheels to carry uneven loads, which causes very inconvenient blowouts.. trailer manufacturers are cheap SOBs and one axel carrying all the weight is guaranteed to exceed the rating.
The problem with just jacking up the neck is that it causes the wheels to carry uneven loads, which causes very inconvenient blowouts.. trailer manufacturers are cheap SOBs and one axel carrying all the weight is guaranteed to exceed the rating.
Mine still rides even and gives me the bed clearance I need. There are multiple ways of getting your trailer to work with your truck. If the springs are underslung, mount the axle under the spring. If it is already over, blocks can be used to raise the back of the trailer. If on torsions blocks between the axle and the frame. Nobody said to jack the front up and run a trailer that isn't properly level. Rest assured I will make the changes needed so I have enough clearance, any of the above is better than damaging the truck.
In my case, the 2 inch adjustment has the trailer slightly raked empty but perfectly level loaded. I would never haul a trailer with all the weight on one axle...
I have a new to me 2019 F-450, going from a 2012 F350 SRW. Fortunately I am putting new puck legs on my hitch and putting the original pinbox back on, so I can make the adjustments as I go through it, but the F-450 is at least 2" taller. Something I have to keep in mind when I set this up.
It's does, under comprehensive since it didn't involve another vehicle. Fear of the rates going up is probably the main reason for not doing it. Why pay all that money every year and NOT use it? I have totaled out 2 vehicles, hit 2 deer, and my rates did not go up any ore than normal annual rate adjustments and STILL have the lowest insurance from any of them.
What raises rates are at fault collisions, multiple comprehensive claims, and bad credit. IF this is a first claim, rates wont go up, especially since this was an accidental issue and not purposely done.
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