Full float Dana 60 - brake drum centralizing
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: New Zealand
Full float Dana 60 - brake drum centralizing
I'm in the middle of preparing a full-float, 4.10, Dana 60 rear axle for swapping into my '83 F250; it will replace the original semi-float, 3.54 axle.
Among other parts I have new brake drums to go on, but I've discovered that both the bore of the new drums, & the lug holes have fairly generous clearance on the hub & lugs. This means that even if the drum is fitted centrally when first assembled, it will be able to shift off center far enough to cause trouble.
I haven't seen clearances like this on drums before - the originals are similar, but not quite as loose.
I can machine a ring to take up the clearance between the hub & drum, or small sleeves to go on each wheel lug.........but what is normal practice?
Among other parts I have new brake drums to go on, but I've discovered that both the bore of the new drums, & the lug holes have fairly generous clearance on the hub & lugs. This means that even if the drum is fitted centrally when first assembled, it will be able to shift off center far enough to cause trouble.
I haven't seen clearances like this on drums before - the originals are similar, but not quite as loose.
I can machine a ring to take up the clearance between the hub & drum, or small sleeves to go on each wheel lug.........but what is normal practice?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 126
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From: Livermore, CO
Don't use those they are not right. Either they are hub piloted drums or they are accurately centered with the studs. Many of the older hub and drum assemblies were mounted with the drum on the back side of the hub flange with the studs going through the drum and hub and securing the assembly together. Newer style, probably from the 80's up, just slipped on from the outside and are piloted accurately. I think in all cases with Fords the drum is piloted by the hub.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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Something sure doesn’t sound right. I have a full-float Dana 60 rear axle on my ‘84 F250HD 4x4. The arrangement for the drums is a real pain. The drums go on the inboard side of the hub, and then the wheel studs are pressed in. You can’t separate the drum from the hub without pressing out wheel studs. It’s not like most lighter vehicles, where the drum simply slips over the wheel studs on the outboard side of the hub.
IIRC, the diameter of the wheel studs is stepped down. The serrated part (straight flutes) that presses into the drum and hub is larger diameter. The threaded part for the lug nuts is smaller diameter.
IIRC, the diameter of the wheel studs is stepped down. The serrated part (straight flutes) that presses into the drum and hub is larger diameter. The threaded part for the lug nuts is smaller diameter.
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From: Virginia
Yes, make sure you are putting the drums behind the hubs. It's one of the first steps, not one of the last steps of assembly like it was on your semi-float. Dana full float rearends are a pain because of this. The Ford/Sterling drum goes on last like your semi-float drum did.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: New Zealand
Thanks - yes, I realize the drums mount to the rear of the hub. There's not a problem there, except the inconvenience of that design.
The head-scratcher is the clearance that is on both the lugs & the hub. I think Yendra Built is correct that the drum locating is done off the hub OD.
Adding to the confusion, is that the drum bore does measure as is specified by various manufacturers on the Rockauto site, but still seems excessively loose.
The head-scratcher is the clearance that is on both the lugs & the hub. I think Yendra Built is correct that the drum locating is done off the hub OD.
Adding to the confusion, is that the drum bore does measure as is specified by various manufacturers on the Rockauto site, but still seems excessively loose.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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New Zealand, right? Is your truck a US spec model imported there, or was it assembled locally? Same for the donor axle. Where are you getting these parts? Just wondering if a locally built model may have had some differences in the axles, and thus the new parts don't fit.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: New Zealand
Yes, New Zealand.
I bought the truck out of San Diego in 2008, it was built in the Twin Cities plant. And although the full float axle I'm going to use is from an Australian F250, it is also US built.........but a good thought.
The drums are Durago brand from Rockauto.......presumably Chinese. The clearances are slightly higher than the original drums.
I got to measuring the hub clearances tonight & it's around .040" on both drums - which doesn't sound a lot, but when the drums shift it will be .080" per revolution.........too much to ignore.
I think I'll make up two thin sleeves to centralize the drums off the hub. I don't expect any problem with that - they will be untouched until the drums are replaced again, well into the future (replacing the shoes won't disturb them, the hub & drum will stay assembled together).
I bought the truck out of San Diego in 2008, it was built in the Twin Cities plant. And although the full float axle I'm going to use is from an Australian F250, it is also US built.........but a good thought.
The drums are Durago brand from Rockauto.......presumably Chinese. The clearances are slightly higher than the original drums.
I got to measuring the hub clearances tonight & it's around .040" on both drums - which doesn't sound a lot, but when the drums shift it will be .080" per revolution.........too much to ignore.
I think I'll make up two thin sleeves to centralize the drums off the hub. I don't expect any problem with that - they will be untouched until the drums are replaced again, well into the future (replacing the shoes won't disturb them, the hub & drum will stay assembled together).
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Lead Driver
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This is a gm axle but I show both beause Im asking what kind of situation you have. Do you have a spindle that locknuts a drum onto it and the drum has the hub and thus studs? or do you have a hub with lugs and then a drum slips on over that. the second one is prev pic
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
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I'm in the middle of preparing a full-float, 4.10, Dana 60 rear axle for swapping into my '83 F250; it will replace the original semi-float, 3.54 axle.
Among other parts I have new brake drums to go on, but I've discovered that both the bore of the new drums, & the lug holes have fairly generous clearance on the hub & lugs. This means that even if the drum is fitted centrally when first assembled, it will be able to shift off center far enough to cause trouble.
I haven't seen clearances like this on drums before - the originals are similar, but not quite as loose.
I can machine a ring to take up the clearance between the hub & drum, or small sleeves to go on each wheel lug.........but what is normal practice?
Among other parts I have new brake drums to go on, but I've discovered that both the bore of the new drums, & the lug holes have fairly generous clearance on the hub & lugs. This means that even if the drum is fitted centrally when first assembled, it will be able to shift off center far enough to cause trouble.
I haven't seen clearances like this on drums before - the originals are similar, but not quite as loose.
I can machine a ring to take up the clearance between the hub & drum, or small sleeves to go on each wheel lug.........but what is normal practice?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
No, the drum is inboard of the hub. This was common on the earlier Dana 60 axles (I think later versions did have the drum outside the hub).
But on this axle the lugs come through from the inside of the drum (clearance hole), then are a press fit through the hub flange, & the wheel is outside of the hub........like the GM axle you show.
Maybe with the wheel nuts torqued up the drum wouldn't shift, I don't know........but because the lug holes & center bore of the drum are all loose fits, there is nothing to accurately locate it while you get it assembled & torqued.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,219
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No, the drum is inboard of the hub. This was common on the earlier Dana 60 axles (I think later versions did have the drum outside the hub).
But on this axle the lugs come through from the inside of the drum (clearance hole), then are a press fit through the hub flange, & the wheel is outside of the hub........like the GM axle you show.
Maybe with the wheel nuts torqued up the drum wouldn't shift, I don't know........but because the lug holes & center hole of the drum are all clearance, there is nothing to accurately locate it while you get it assembled & torqued.
But on this axle the lugs come through from the inside of the drum (clearance hole), then are a press fit through the hub flange, & the wheel is outside of the hub........like the GM axle you show.
Maybe with the wheel nuts torqued up the drum wouldn't shift, I don't know........but because the lug holes & center hole of the drum are all clearance, there is nothing to accurately locate it while you get it assembled & torqued.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
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From: New Zealand
Posts #1 & #8 should describe the background of the swap.
I can't really supply a pic that would help because the axle, hubs & brakes are all stripped down. But no, I'm not changing the brake set-up,,,,,,,,,just replacing worn parts before doing a complete rear end swap.
From 10.22 this clip (not mine, but the same axle) shows the hub & drum assembly..........
I can't really supply a pic that would help because the axle, hubs & brakes are all stripped down. But no, I'm not changing the brake set-up,,,,,,,,,just replacing worn parts before doing a complete rear end swap.
From 10.22 this clip (not mine, but the same axle) shows the hub & drum assembly..........
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,219
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Posts #1 & #8 should describe the background of the swap.
I can't really supply a pic that would help because the axle, hubs & brakes are all stripped down. But no, I'm not changing the brake set-up,,,,,,,,,just replacing worn parts before doing a complete rear end swap.
From 10.22 this clip (not mine, but the same axle) shows the hub & drum assembly..........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYps_VDubg8
I can't really supply a pic that would help because the axle, hubs & brakes are all stripped down. But no, I'm not changing the brake set-up,,,,,,,,,just replacing worn parts before doing a complete rear end swap.
From 10.22 this clip (not mine, but the same axle) shows the hub & drum assembly..........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYps_VDubg8
heres a option if you wanted to drop a lot of money and import parts... I took a look at their site and that was something I saw, but
https://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/fi...store=original I found this which DOES NOT have instructions for your kind
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
Thanks for your input & efforts.
I hope to do some minor work to the diff, reassemble the brakes with all new parts, & have the axle ready to swap in the next 2-3 weeks............ I don't get much time to work on it.
I'm not too concerned about the drum clearance issues now; I'll just make up two thin walled sleeves to press onto the hubs so that the drums locate centrally, & then press the new lugs into place.
Thanks again
I hope to do some minor work to the diff, reassemble the brakes with all new parts, & have the axle ready to swap in the next 2-3 weeks............ I don't get much time to work on it.
I'm not too concerned about the drum clearance issues now; I'll just make up two thin walled sleeves to press onto the hubs so that the drums locate centrally, & then press the new lugs into place.
Thanks again