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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Harmonic balancer replacment

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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 02:45 PM
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Harmonic balancer replacment

My truck (1982 F350 c/c 351W) still has the original engine and it works great. I drive it to work every day. Should I try to replace the harmonic balancer since it’s so old? Or just leave sleeping dogs lie? It appears to be intact, but I can see that the rubber is checked.
 

Last edited by Prionus; Aug 12, 2022 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Fix
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 03:21 PM
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I’d leave it alone. Are you getting any vibrations or shaking at different engine speeds?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
I’d leave it alone. Are you getting any vibrations or shaking at different engine speeds?
None. The truck runs like new. Thank you.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 08:53 PM
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I also would not unless the outer ring has slipped.
To do that you will need a piston stop to check that the timing mark on the damper is still on the money.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 09:38 PM
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A quick and dirty way to check if the ring has slipped is to pull the spark plug, stick some sort of rod down the whole, and rotate the engine until the rod sticks out the farthest. it isn't as accurate as using a micrometer or piston stop, but you should be within a couple of degrees. Check the Mark's, and if they are close, I would call it good. Keep in mind, if the engine has the original time chain and sprockets, they have at least some wear, and after a couple hundred thousand miles, optimal timing will be a degree or three more advanced than specs. I have a 300-6 that is happy about a degree advanced of specs and a 289 that is happy +2.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyJSH
A quick and dirty way to check if the ring has slipped is to pull the spark plug, stick some sort of rod down the hole...
I feel compelled to add an important detail. A soda straw or piece of stiff wire makes a good tool for this purpose. The general idea is to use a tool with just enough flexibility so it won't snap off as the piston rises. A wooden dowel, on the other hand, lacks the desired resiliency and could snap off inside the cylinder. I do not care to discuss how I know this.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I also would not unless the outer ring has slipped.
Me three. I'd leave well enough alone.

I'd suggest confirming the timing marks are still accurate. Then paint a stripe on the face of the damper across the rubber portion. If you ever suspect the outer sleeve has shifted, simply check the painted witness mark.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2022 | 11:05 PM
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I used to do that and what it got me is on my '82 302 the original balancer from '82 which the weight ring never spun on and idled smooth as can be actually broke the snout around the Key Way and spun on the crank snout trashing the crank. I asked the old engine builder I know and he told me that was a very common failure on the old Ford V8s with the balancers breaking apart and spinning on the crank.

I wouldnt trust a old balancer anymore after having that happen to myself thats for sure at least not for a OE casting. Aftermarket might be better, especially if you go with a SFI approved aftermarket one like I did for my new 302.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyJSH
A quick and dirty way to check if the ring has slipped is to pull the spark plug, stick some sort of rod down the whole, and rotate the engine until the rod sticks out the farthest. it isn't as accurate as using a micrometer or piston stop, but you should be within a couple of degrees. Check the Mark's, and if they are close, I would call it good. Keep in mind, if the engine has the original time chain and sprockets, they have at least some wear, and after a couple hundred thousand miles, optimal timing will be a degree or three more advanced than specs. I have a 300-6 that is happy about a degree advanced of specs and a 289 that is happy +2.
Timing chain or camshaft gear slop should not be a factor in this measurement. It's from the crankshaft directly to the piston.
 
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