Hello!

Warning

This is my first post and I have a lot of questions but my knowledge level may interfere with my articulation.

Stuff i know
This is not the original carb that was on the engine when i got the vehicle. I asked the first mechanic that worked on it to put the old carb in the vehicle but he forgot… i get it man no hard feeling and thanks for all your help you are awesome
This carb came off a 302

Stuff i dont know
I think this is a 2150
The year of the engine this carb came off

Post

I have been reviving a 351W from 1978 for …. A long time now, motivation has been a sign wave. Here's a link to a post I started about the project that I have not continued. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t.../vando.232384/ But I'm really close now! I started it up a few days ago and it … well started right up.. which was awesome and it sounded really good, not to say my ears are the best to recognize what a really well tuned engine sounds like but there was no “out of place sounds” that would make one panic and frantically turn the key to the off position. One thing I could not do was tame the rpm upon start up… enter the carburetor …. I'm sure most of you will be like “dude there are tons of carb Q&As all over the internet…. I know I have read most of them and some of them are incredibly detailed and well written. Props to those people for their knowledge and time. I however am still struggling to grasp the components and inter functionality of all the bits and levers and springs and screws and vacuum ports. I really want to learn all this stuff and I don't have anyone to teach me the “Basics” I called a few shops and they said they would do the work but not interested in letting me help and learn from them , which i understand, i was just hoping someone would be as psyched to teach me as i am to learn. Anyways lets start with the pictures!



Here is the Engine Stamp… of course it's a terrible picture and it's the only one i took …. Uuuuuggg next time ill do better haha

1) First off


Purple “A” is all this pitting on the throttle plates a problem? Part of me says probably not, but the other part is thinking that all those pits disrupt airflow over the surface and miss things up just a little bit,,, i doubt that but i don't know?
Purple “B” not sure how i didnt notice this during the rebuild but… in this picture i have the Idle mixture screws turned in as much as i can ( lightly seated i did not crank of them dont worry haha) the screw that the “B” is pointing to is all messed up as you will see in following pictures.


2) Idle Mixture Screws



Yellow “A” can not be screwed in as much as Yellow “B”


3) Idle Screw Tips


Here you can see the tips of the Idle mixture screws. I’m pretty sure that is a problem



4) Idle Mixture screws removed


Thats for sure not good
Im pretty sure i can just get new mixture screws. No problem right? Or are these made very specifically for each carb? My brain says that would be crazy! But again… I dont Know?
On to the next!


5) Transfer Slots

Passengers side




Divers side

On the passenger side you can really see the slot... like “oh ya there's the transfer slot.
On the drivers side …. You can’t, it's there just a really really tiny slot. you can't really see it in the picture
Is that a problem?



6) Curb Idle Adjustment Screw

Blue “A”) Is there an initial position I should set the curb Idle screw at? And is that related to the transfer slot problem? Do I adjust this to appropriate transfer slot openness? My brain says no. I should set this so it's just touching the stop plate on the throttle lever arm. Then adjust it to set the curb idle rpms. Does that make sense?


7) questions



Here are some general questions
Blue “A”) Curb Idle Adjustment screw. Any tips thoughts or secrets about this are appreciated, seem pretty strength forward, after i get the fast idle squared away (those questions are coming) and the engine is at operating temp i adjust this to set the idle speed according to the engine label on the original valve cover ( i took a picture of it) is that right?
Green “B”) throttle positioning sensor with Dashpot? Im guessing this is to smooth the release of the throttle? So it doesn't just smash closed. Is there an initial setting or tips on how it should be set up and adjusted?
Pink “C”) Some Kind of down shift Lever? Im not really sure. There is a spring attaching this lever to the dashpot bracket. Any knowledge and info about this will be great. see picture below

8) Spring on mystery lever Pink "C" picture 7


Red ”D”) Adjust ment screw on the Pink “C” lever. Please explain?
Yellow “E”) What are the stamped A and B for on the throttle lever?


Where to begin……
I read all of this and the links under “more information can be found here:”
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/motorcraft-2150.html
Super great unfortunately the tuning info page is incomplete … Major bummer because i'm sure I wouldn't be writing this if it was published.
Also i read and follow every step of this
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/***...uals/e2150.pdf
But its kind of vague … like great info but where's the starting points
Left me with a few questions like which data adjustment sheet do i use?
and not sure which set to follow?

I will do my best to explain and ask questions about initial adjustments now… I fear trying to do this…

First off i had to replace the choke pull down diaphragm because it would not react to a vacuum. The new one pulls back, but will not stay in position unless I continuously pump the vacuum. Which i assume is ok because the vacuum applied by the running engine will be constant.

I follow all the steps to set the Choke pull down and fast idle cam linkage adjustment
Totally lost it, i just don't get it.


9) Bench top Adjustments????


Blue “A”) I understand what this does and how it works

Red “B”) ehhh i think i get it, is it really just for adjusting the pulldown lever?

Purple “C”) Make sure choke pull down pulls the choke plate open to specs listed on the adjustment data sheet. I understand that

Green “C” What dose this screw do? And is there an initial position i should put it in before i start adjustments??? Ehh i am really confused by this little screw.


Question about each number

1. Why? Why not just set the choke clever where it needs to be?
   
2. Ok
   
3. Ok but i have to hold it back with my finger because it will not hold the vacuum, i have a “gun” style vacuum tool and if i continuously pump it the diaphragm holds but when i stop it holds for a fraction of a sec the release. Is that ok?
   
4. With the the diaphragm held back (imaginary vacuum) i open the throttle and close it
   
5. I just get how adjusting this screw affects anything?? In order to get the fast idle screw to rest on the “v” i have to turn the screw #5 is pointing all the way out so it's not even touching the plate it touches when you screw it in???? Is there an initial position I should start with ie all the way in half way? Same question for the fast idle screw. I'm sure all this was set at the factory but it's been messed with by so many people that said they knew about carbs and just started turning things this way and that way. Now I'm trying to fix it myself but I don't know enough… sorry that was a little bit of a tangent rant.
   

Red “D”) choke spring housing. To do the adjustments listed above I temporarily turn it rich to pull the choke closed. But then when i'm done I reposition it to what the adjustment data sheet says for my year and application. However that makes the choke plate all kinds of lose which i don't think it should be. I think when the engine is cold and the fast idle cam has been reset there should be some resistance when I push on the choke plate. Does that make sense? And is that assumption correct? If it is then I believe when setting the position of the coke housing, I should 1) turn the housing til it just closes the choke plate and then 2) just a little more to achieve the adjustment on the adjustment data sheet. ???


I'm not really sure what to ask now? I guess what is the first thing I should do? The fast idle linkage is just really confusing to me and I'm sure I'm making it more confusing than it needs to be. i if someone wants to do a video chat where we can look at the carb and i can ask questions and follow instructions that would be sweet. Id pay for knowledge Venmo or PayPal or maybe you live in Colorado near the front range and you are willing to meet up and transfer some carb knowledge? Idk im just hoping for the best…
Hers some picture of the engine in different phases of work




Pretty proud of myself for getting this far ( pat myself on the back)

 

Do yourself a favor and get a new or remanufactured carburetor and throw that one in a scrap bin. It is doubtful that you will ever get that thing to function properly .

 

thanks, that's what i was excepting i should do

 

Well I think you have a great attention to detail, and already have figured out more about carburetors than most mechanics, nowadays.
The pitting on the carb throttle plates is unimportant, but does indicate that it probably has serious corrosion elsewhere in it. The uneven coverage of the transfer slots by the plates is a problem. The twisted up idle mixture screw shows the carb has suffered serious abuse. The good thing is that you don't have a lot to lose by experimenting with it, so try twisting the plates against each other until they "index" the same, i.e cover the transfer slots equally. I think that the transfer slots should not be exposed at all at idle.

The mixture screws definitely need replacing. From your reading you probably know that they should only be lightly seated so as to not damage the seat material they seat against.

Many years ago 2V carbs were cheap, as in $5 to $20 for a good one. I don't know if it's easy to find a good carb cheap nowadays, which will determine if it's worth your while to fiddle with, and spend money on, this one.

Your first picture of the cylinder block is a good one as it shows the casting numbers as well as the date code. I believe the "7F6" indicates the block was cast on June 6th 1977 (77June6).