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My Ranger has a broken temp gauge, but I do have the UltraGauge set up to read the coolant temp, so I know it normally runs from 188 to 192 degrees Fahrenheit.
However, the UG doesn’t have the redline like a factory gauge, so I don’t really know how much room I have to work with. At what point should I turn my cab heater on to get the extra cooling? I’ve been turning it on in stop and go traffic when the temp gets to 205 or so, but is that unnecessarily soon? What is a danger temp for the engine?
Not to worry. Your engine can withstand much higher temperatures. Keep an eye on the rising temps and consider the heater if the engine temps get say over 220 F.
Your 50/50 mixture of antifreeze/water coolant will not boil until around 256 F with a good pressure radiator cap. There is a simple test to determine if the sender is at fault, but I can't recall it at the present.
You could google it. A sender is easy to replace.
Not to worry. Your engine can withstand much higher temperatures. Keep an eye on the rising temps and consider the heater if the engine temps get say over 220 F.
Your 50/50 mixture of antifreeze/water coolant will not boil until around 256 F with a good pressure radiator cap. There is a simple test to determine if the sender is at fault, but I can't recall it at the present.
You could google it. A sender is easy to replace.
Ok, thanks for the info. I'll look up the sender. What is it sending, and what would be the consequence of a faulty one?
My Ranger has a broken temp gauge, but I do have the UltraGauge set up to read the coolant temp, so I know it normally runs from 188 to 192 degrees Fahrenheit.
I’ve been turning it on in stop and go traffic when the temp gets to 205 or so, but is that unnecessarily soon? What is a danger temp for the engine?
Seems like a lot of work to install a gauge without testing the old one first.
Yes. That is unnecessary since those are completely normal temperatures.
Originally Posted by ranger pat
There is a simple test to determine if the sender is at fault, but I can't recall it at the present.
Disconnect the wire from the sending unit and ground the wire with the key on. The gauge should be pegged to the HOT end of the gauge.
Originally Posted by MowRanger
Ok, thanks for the info. I'll look up the sender. What is it sending, and what would be the consequence of a faulty one?
The sending unit is a potentiometer. It is sending a voltage back the the gauge based on the resistance in the sending unit. Umm… the gauge does not work or is not accurate.
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks;[url=tel:20514703
20514703]Seems like a lot of work to install a gauge without testing the old one first.
Yes. That is unnecessary since those are completely normal temperatures.
Disconnect the wire from the sending unit and ground the wire with the key on. The gauge should be pegged to the HOT end of the gauge.
The sending unit is a potentiometer. It is sending a voltage back the the gauge based on the resistance in the sending unit. Umm… the gauge does not work or is not accurate.
The UltraGauge is a little computer doodad that plugs into the OBDII port, and gives me trouble codes, mileage, RPM, engine load, and many other handy bits of info.
As far as the sender goes, I just wanted to make sure it wont directly hurt performance if it is broken. Thanks for giving the test!
The temp gauge sensor changes its resistance based upon temperature. Low resistance(as in gauge lead grounded) will indicate high temperature. High resistance indicates cooler temperature. The reading you get from the OBD-II is the one used by the ECM to determine fuel and timing during engine operation in closed loop. I may have sensor and sender reversed, but one is for the gauge, one is for the ECM.
tom
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