Starter Heat Soak
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2022
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Starter Heat Soak
Looking for any suggestions or possible solution to a problem I'm having with my 86 f250. The truck has a 460 with long tube headers, The original starter was killed as a result the heat produced by the headers. Since them I have upgraded to a PMGR starter from a 97 f250, but still experiencing the starer being heat soaked. Since. the new starter was still experiencing issues I wrapped my headers as well as wrapped the starter in a heat shield, but still the starter is getting heat soaked. Has anyone ever had a situation like this and if so what fixed it, and suggestions are appreciated, Id like to not have to worry about getting stranded at a gas station on the side of the highway.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,173
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It all comes down to supply and demand. Normally, the battery and cables can supply an adequate flow of electrons to spin the starter, with a little reserve left over. But when your underhood heaters (aka headers) heat up everything, the hot starter draws more current to do the same job as before. Suddenly, your withdrawal is declined and you get an overdraft notice. Demand has exceeded supply.
I can’t offer anything about keeping the starter cool, other than to suggest ditching the headers. But short of that, you can’t really reduce the increased electrical demand of a toasty starter. That side of the supply/demand equation is set in stone. But you can make sure the supply side is operating at full capacity:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html
Don’t just poo-poo the idea out of hand. Let’s say your battery and cables have a hidden fault and the system is operating at only 80% capacity. Could be when the starter is cool, it only needs 70% so all seems good. You wouldn’t even realize the starter system was operating at less than full capacity. But when the starter is hot, it needs more than 80% and you’re left stranded. There may not be anything wrong with the poor starter, other than it has to live next to the equator.
I can’t offer anything about keeping the starter cool, other than to suggest ditching the headers. But short of that, you can’t really reduce the increased electrical demand of a toasty starter. That side of the supply/demand equation is set in stone. But you can make sure the supply side is operating at full capacity:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html
Don’t just poo-poo the idea out of hand. Let’s say your battery and cables have a hidden fault and the system is operating at only 80% capacity. Could be when the starter is cool, it only needs 70% so all seems good. You wouldn’t even realize the starter system was operating at less than full capacity. But when the starter is hot, it needs more than 80% and you’re left stranded. There may not be anything wrong with the poor starter, other than it has to live next to the equator.
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2022
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So if I’m understanding your reply as well as the link you provided if I did a voltage drop test found I had voltage drop , I’d need to see about possible a different battery and some heavier gauge wire possibly?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,173
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That test is a hybrid of two tests. It checks the ability of the battery to supply power under the heavy load of the starter. It also tests the ability of the cables , starter relay, and all connections to deliver that massive current without undue restriction.
The test itself is very quick. Three meter hookups, maybe ten minutes tops. Duplicate the fault conditions, long drive, etc. If everything passes, the problem is elsewhere, such as a bad starter or a mechanical load in excess of what the starter system was designed to handle.
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