Evening everyone,

I picked up a new to me 94 f250 IDI turbo a few weeks ago. Came as a package deal with a half ton from a buddy. Initially i was going to part it out, but it’s in pretty nice shape (specifically, no rust which is a rarity in SD) so I wouldn’t mind trying to get it going. It currently has a crank no start problem. What I know so far is below:

1)buddy bought it in December for the bed, never got around to pulling it for his half ton. Sold me the pair in June. When he showed up to get it, it was already running. It drove onto the trailer fine.

2)he was told it usually needed ether to fire up. He started it once or twice over the winter, always needed a shot.

3)he changed both batteries and the fuel filter right before I picked it up. It ran great, drove half a block, died and wouldn’t restart.

4)I changed the injector orings and 1 injector (bad threads). I believe I’ve gotten all the air out. If I crack a feed line, I get fuel but it isn’t a strong spray while cranking - more of a seeping but you can see it pulsing when it gets pressure from the IP.

I’m leaning towards the starting system. It has 2 new motocraft 850 cca batteries. The cable terminals look beat up. Haven’t looked at the starter yet. I’m attempting to upload a video but it doesn’t want to take. How fast should this thing be cranking?

Also, is there a way to test if the IP is weak?

 

welcome to FTE.
crusty cable ends will cause low power to the starter.
dribble of fuel out of loose injector line says it is still air bound, or low on fuel.
needing either to start says bad glow plugs. motorcraft ZD-9's ONLY.
all others are garbage....no matter what the seller tries telling you.

 

Thanks for the reply TJC!

Couple additional things:
- on glow plugs, I (unscientifically) think they're at least doing something. It has a bypass/pushbutton installed, and if I crank it without using it it is audibly different (not attempting to fire) vs if I crank it after holding the button for 5-8 seconds. Obviously this isn't a true test of the system, but it's pushing it a little farther down the list for me. I can always plug in the block heater later to see if that helps.
- any thoughts on a better way to get the air out of this thing? I'm getting fuel to all 8 injectors if I crack them. I'm also just getting fuel (not air) out of the Schrader valve from the top of the fuel filter. Just keep cranking?
- The truck no longer starts with a shot of ether. It did for the previous owner (an Army buddy, I know he's not feeding me a line of crap on that) a couple times but doesn't for me.
- I think I've successfully gotten a video uploaded of the cranking speed. Does that seem about right for one of these? It's slower than my Duramax by quite a bit, but it's also older and not a DI engine. I'm pretty new to diesels (never touched one until 6 months ago).

 

how much fuel is in the tank ? these trucks have a history of fuel pick up breaking and even if you gauge shows 1/3 the pick up can't reach it,
,
I'd run a gerry can on the front bumper, genscripter has a good instructional, it's cheap and easy to eliminate all components before the injection pump, you'll at least confirm which direction to look,

what type of fuel spray do you get out of the schrader valve at the filter when you crank it ?

Be careful cranking as you can burn up a starter easy on these big engines which will only compound your troubleshooting, crank for 10 seconds and let it cool for a minute at least, ( i burnt up a starter when my IP solenoid went out and I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get a hot start)

never use ether when your glow plugs are operational,

 

Morning Scott, thanks for the reply.

Have about 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Running it off a can is a good idea, I'll have to set that up. Didn't get to mess with it last night (mid house renovation as well as the truck project) but when I depress the schrader while cranking, I get a strong spray a few inches out from the schrader valve.

Definitely concerned about the starter. I have no idea how much cranking was done on it before I got it, and I haven't been as careful as I should have.

Is it cranking fast enough for an IDI in the video I posted?

 

Don't see a video.
but if you go up in the stickies top of the page , you will see two videos of a bad starter at around 70 degrees and then a good starter at around 40 degrees. The cranking speed is easily heard

 

Weird. Shows attached to my second comment for me, but I'm about as computer literate as a rock . I completely missed that sticky. Mine is definitely not spinning as fast as the good starter. I'll have to grab some new cable ends on my way home today. If those don't help, I'll dig deeper into the starting system but it may be new starter time. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!

 

the file is attached now, I would also say it's spinning slow,

when I was fighting starting issues and batteries, once I finally installed a new started it was like (and still is) magic, the engine is already firing before I even engaged the key all the way forward, it starts that fast !

 

now that i am home on the laptop i can see the video.
i am still trying to figure out the stupid phone.
i was getting ready to do the top end on my 02 two years ago because it was very hard starting.
than the positive battery cable clamp broke. trying to replace the cable, the lug snapped off the solenoid.
so new starter went on too. that was when i realized there was nothing wrong with the engine, the starter was just pulling too much power and the computer was not turning on until the engine was spinning fast enough.

 

Hey fellas, got a minor update: I have the new starter and 3 new cable ends on (didnt do the pass through positive one because I bought a generic kit and haven’t had a chance to get the right one picked up yet). Truck definitely cranks faster, but my batteries were a bit low. It’s on the charger now. I also checked and I have a full fuel filter so that’s good. What’s the next check if I still have no fire after the batteries are full?

 

Follow up number two:

still no start. Batteries charged, cranks faster (though still not as fast as the “new starter video”.) cables don’t get hot during cranking, cranking speed isn’t really changing/indicating inconsistencies.

getting fuel at all 8 injectors when cracked open.

plugged truck in, after about an hour still no change. It’s currently 80ish degrees out.

a bit lost at this point: am I getting to the potential IP failure, or lost compresssion stage? I’m concerned since it used to start hard, then died while running, now doesn’t start at all that something has let go/finally given up.

thoughts?

 

have you tried disabling the glow plugs and giving it a 1 or 2 second shot of ether before trying to start?

 

I did before the new starter. I didn't after putting it in. I can grab some tonight after work and try. If it starts, would that show there is still a fuel issue?

Also, even though I have fuel at the injectors is it possible I still have air intrusion? I'm questioning if there isn't still an air leak at that filter head (specifically the heater). It looks to have a little grease/fuel around it like maybe it's letting a little out. Could that cause a no start?

 

if there is air in the lines it will not start.
if it fires on the either and than stays running good, it should start without it after that.

 

Got fire!!! One shot of ether and it kicked right off. Shut it off after a bit, ate dinner, came out and it fired up again with no ether.

getting lots of white smoke though. It’s dissipating/getting better but there and running a bit rough. Normal for the repairs I’ve done/all the cranking? Or am I chasing something new now?

thanks for all the help!