I would like to remove the A/C components from my truck. It has not worked in years, the compressor is seized, and I live on the water in the Pacific Northwest and have no reason to spend the money to get it fixed for the 1-2 weeks of 85-90 degree weather we have every summer

I have to replace my blower motor, so now is the perfect opportunity.

I am 99% sure that the system is empty, having sat broken for so many years, but nonetheless, What would be the safest disconnect procedure for removing this puppy...in the event there is still a little bit of freon left?

thank you,

ackusackus

 

Crack one of the connections open with a wrench and stand back! That is not the environmentally proper way to do it tho. You "should" take it to a service center and have them evacuate the freon out of the system and reclaim it. I would go with the crack a joint method since you probably have nothing left in the system anyway.

 

I'm with Torque1st, crack a connection. I have never believed that the freon from a cars AC is harmfull to the environment. Just keep your hands away from the connection while doing it.

 

what would u do with the belt tho after u took off the compressor? cause wouldnt it be too long seein as how ur one pully short. maybe im wrong but i dunno cause ive been thinkin about doin this as well

 

The freon IS harmful to the environment. It is just in this case the small amount released is less than most cars leak every year because of those damn slip couplers, -not one of Ford's better ideas... They rank right up there with GM's controlled compressor seal leak

 

actually it does not even have a belt on it....it is seized up good.


I kinda figured I just needed to crack a connection, but having never worked on an A/C system, I wanted to double check.

If I had any inkling that it actually had something in it, I would take it in, but I am going to almost guarentee it does not. It has grill damage (deer at relatively low speed I presume), and I was looking at it today, and there is a section on the A/C condenser(?) that is flattened in pretty good, about 2-3 inches by .5-1 inch, and I would imagine the leak was sprung there.

thanks for the info


ackus

 

okay, so I am in the process of removing everything, and by the way, not a whiff of freon....completely EMPTY!

Here we go, forgive me for my lack of correct terminology.....


I removed the part of the A/C that is in the heater box (actually cools the air inside the truck) and it had a big thick wire sticking in the fins, and this wire went to a metal box about 1-2" square. That had 2 wires plugged into it. If I take this out of the loop, will it affect blower motor operation?

 

No, it will not affect it. If I'm not mistaken, it's the temperature cutoff switch. I took mine out, and everything still functions.

 

I just wanted to jump in here and ask Ackus to keep this discussion going. This is all good stuff to me since I'm thinking about taking the a/c out of my '79 Bronco. I was wondering how difficult it would be. So, Ackus, any advice? I was also wondering if you notice any power increases or if your engine runs cooler with less load on it and with the a/c condensor out from in front of the main radiator. I just picked up this truck a month or so ago and the guy says the a/c works, I just don't think I want it hanging off my engine if I don't plan to use it much. Thanks all.

 

i was wondering the same thing because i am going to take the Ac compressor off my 1975 f150, and was wondering if it helped take a load off the engine.

 

ERIC79XLT if it really does work, I would be extra careful taking it apart, and I would also figure out how to protect the insides from contamination. I would venture to guess somebody on this website my be interested in taking that off your hands




I may not be much help in a lot of areas....My A/C belt has been off since I had the truck, so I don't know about any power increase. I DO have much easier access to my stuck distributor, so now I will hopefully be able to get in and get some leverage on that sucker and adjust my timing

The A/C bracket was behind the P/S bracket at one mounting location, so I had to shim that to keep the pulleys on the same plane. I don't think I have it quite shimmed all the way, but it is close enought for government work for now.

The hoses going back to the evaporator were a problem for me. I did not have a proper wrench that would fit, so I had to use channel locks. I ended up twisting the tubing apart without losening the connection. The hoses were not mounted to the firewall, which I think they are supposed to be, and I probably did not give the WD40 enough time to do its thing.... That simplified the removal process for the evaporator core. I have not gotten the heater box back together yet, so I do not know how that is going to work out. I did hang on to the core and the little side plate just in case their being missing creates any airflow problems. I am actually hoping for less restricted airflow in that department, so hopefully, more circulation. I will prolly clean up the area around the hole where the tubes pass through, then seal the hole with liberal application of duct tape. As my system is now, I can barely keep the front window defrosted in the rain.



I have not pulled the stuff out of the front yet, though from looking at it, it may be a bit of a challenge. I would venture to guess that it will help with airflow. I am actually facing the opposite problem. I am going to have to find something to block off some airflow from my radiator. I just gotta figure out what to use.

Once I get to the other stuff I'll let you know. I hope to get to the heater box tomorrow, but I may not get to ripping stuff out of the front until after turkey day.

 

what size enging you got?

 

ackusackus,

I am interested in the items in the front of your truck. I mainly need the steel lines from the condensor to the pump. If they are in good shape, how much would you want. I live in the rust belt, and mine has a couple of pinholes.

Thanks
Steve S.

 

ackusackus,

Thanks for all the helpful information. I guess the part that has me the most concerned is up in the heater core area where the a/c tubes route in and then in the cab under the dash where the evaporator is. How much of the dash will I need to take apart? Or does is all just kind of slip out from under everything?

In the engine compartment (351M) everythng looks pretty open for removal. I don't think I'll need to do any shimming anywhere and everything else has it's own belt so no problems there either. It sure looks easy but it sounds like you are finding out otherwise. I hate to say it, but I'm glad you're doing this job first so you can give the rest of us some pointers

By the way I actually tried the a/c today and it does work. I can see the fluid circulating in the check window in the line going to the receiver and I have cold air in the cab. I kind of wonder if it's a mistake to take it off with it seemingly working properly? However, like you I don't see myself using it often and it makes wrenching on some of the other engine stuff a pain! Plus I have the running hot issue and still wonder if I'll see a couple more Hp at the wheels without it. Anyway I guess I'll have to decide and get it done. Oh yeah, I also thought to myself that there must be some people looking for those parts so I may look into that too.
Well, thanks again. I'll keep checking back. Good luck with that heater box and the stuff up front!

ERIC79XLT

 

I turned mine into onboard air. Ran the line that comes out of compser through a oneway valve into air tank. I put a toggal switch to the cluch and air gage inside the cab. I also plumbed in air horns, Great for getting out of tha way.