So, over the weekend I had some time to play with my latest barn find '79 F250. I gunked her down and powerwashed the entire truck, of course being extremely careful near the electronics, and factory labeling etc. The little 6 banger cleaned up really nicely, as well as the chassis and interior. Next, I followed all the "Wake up Call" procedures, by turning the motor over by hand, pulling the plugs dropping in some oil into the cylinders, checking the fluids and topping off each that needed. The antifreeze looked perfect, somewhat to my surprize! I then installed a brand new battery. Everything electronic worked perfectly, lights, signals, horn, except for the overhead bulb and one turn signal bulb. Next, I disconnected the rubber fuel line at the pump (which was cracked) and installed a long section of fuel line to put into a fresh can of gas. With a couple pumps on the gas pedal, and two turns of the key, she fired up!

Luck was not on my side however, as it started tapped like a freight train.....The engine did have oil getting to the top, as it started dripping at the air filter and thru the oil cap. I shut it down after just a few seconds.....I wish I had shot a quick video of this for my record! But it seems the engine has to come out and gone through entirely.....I am a little bummed but I was told they put the truck into the barn 26 years ago due to excessive smoking.....Called a local pro and got a quote, if I dropped it off oil pan to valve cover for rebuild materials and labor 4k plus a two month turn around time frame.

I'm now back on the fence....I have the 390 completely rebuilt, hanging on the stand, but need the Cruise o Matic tranny rebuilt, or wait for the 6 cylinder and pay the 4k.....?

 

Well, a 390 didn't come in a '79, so you're gonna need not only transmission, but mounts, accessory mounts, exhaust, etc too. A 6 isn't hard to DIY overhaul. Is it a 300? Might look around for one.

"as it started dripping at the air filter and thru the oil cap." ... the air filter?

 

Yup, I'd need all the "accessory" items to boot....It's the time......I really don't have the time to do the rebuild, better off paying a pro. They said two months that would be X's 10 if I tried to do it myself....

 

You can get all the parts and you could do it in 2 weekends... seriously, it's not rocket science...

 

Not to bad of a price since shops doing most of the dirty work. People paying $1599 for newest Apple iphone, doubt if that will last as long as a good rebuild. 2 months will give you enough time to pull fuel tank and clean or replace and go over the brake system and all the other things that haven't been serviced in a quarter of a century.

 

All true!

Thanks!

 

4k? Sounds like a ripoff. I can buy a new 460 for half that...

 

Where are you located? I will have one that runs like a champ in central Ohio come mid September when I get home from overseas. Doing a coyote swap and will no longer need the engine. Also, have an Offenhauser intake and Clifford polished valve cover for it.

 

wow! I'm in southeast Pa but this might be worth the drive? If you could pm me with the price and maybe your zip code? Wow again!!!

 

I'm not familiar with any year specific differences, but they ran the I6 engines up into the 90's. You could probably find a good used running engine through a junkyard or Craigslist/FB marketplace and just do a basic gasket job and swap it out. Also try Carpart.com. I just looked around me, in the north east, and I see running 4.9's, mostly out of early 90's trucks, for $200-500.

A quick google search shows reman 4.9 long blocks in the $1500-2500 range.

For $4K I'd want to drop the truck off and pick it up with a new engine installed. $2000+/- over the cost of a long block should more than cover the labor and parts to swap it. It shouldn't take a professional in a shop much more than one day to prep and swap one of these out.

 

If you have found a good mechanic/machinist pay the man. Tools and machines are very expensive, and the knowledge is priceless.

 

Define 'rebuild.' Better yet, I would have my mechanic define rebuild. Does that mean slap a new set of rings in it, throw on new bearings where and if needed, squirt some purdy paint on it and shove it out the door? Or, does it mean new cam, timing gears, lifters, valve job, resurface the deck, balance the crank and rods, machine the rods back to oem size and a perfect circle, R&R cam bearings and freeze plugs, and a new oil pump? There are rebuilds and then there are proper rebuilds that last for decades.

I was where you are at once. I built my 300 to make the hp of a 360 and never looked back. Good luck.

 

I’ve known this company for over 20 years. They have a great reputation and do a top quality complete job. They do have all those expensive tools like the poster above referred to. This description is a complete tear down turning the crank and balancing to freeze plugs and pump. Springs, triple ground valves and seals etc, pistons, rings , all new bearings etc. My confidence in his work is extremely high.

yes I have looked at the long blocks and auction availability but truthfully you just don’t know what you’re getting til it’s delivered…..

I will add most replies I’ve received have been leaning towards keeping the 6 banger vs the 390 route. I am now thinking keep her stock looking even under the hood….

Now all I have to do is find the time to pull it and drop it off….

Thanks for all the great replies!!!

 

The Ford I6 is a great engine in stock form and with some simple performance parts makes a sweet little hot rod/ sleeper and workhorse. I'd consider throwing in a mild performance/towing/RV type cam in it during the rebuild and maybe higher compression pistons if there wasn't a huge price difference. Even running the stock intake and exhaust those would give a decent performance increase. And it gives you the room to grow if you ever want to do a performance intake/carb or exhaust down the road.

 

Your engine is prob around 100 hp now. If you do nothing but change to a Offenhauser C intake with a good 4v carb, you'll add 70 hp. That is the difference between people shouting at you to get out of the way when you're getting on the freeway, to having plenty of power to cruise right into the flow of traffic. Add to that the efi split exhaust manifolds and a nice ignition system, and you increase the hp by 10-20 hp with each change. If you have larger valves installed and port the head, then you're taking another major jump in hp. It depends what you want. And how deep your pockets are. Good luck.

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