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AC fitting help.

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Old Jul 13, 2022 | 09:39 PM
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AC fitting help.

I have been searching the net and only getting more confused. I have a 78 f250 400 with factory air. staying with the york. any idea what size fittings were OEM?

The high side line from condenser ro expansion valve is a little short. I have the crimp tool but can not find any fittings that look right. Trying to educate myself a little before i start calling vendors.

Anyone rebuild their OE air con? attached is a pic the high pressure line to the condenser. Is it some kind of inverted flare?? I can't see an o-ring working in there because the male has nothing to seat against.

Thanks,
Chris



 
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Old Jul 13, 2022 | 10:49 PM
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Does that have the sight window (circle) just back a bit from the end, in the square block on one side? I might have a spare EOM line for you.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 06:30 AM
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Thats a special quick disconnect fitting that prevents refrigerant loss when line is disconnected. Not sure of thread size/type but if you go to https://www.originalair.com/ they should have a replacement hose that eliminates the quick disconnect fitting.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:46 AM
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Figure it out some,, it is the sight glass fitting. I re-routed the hose and it has enough length. I do have a leak somewhere as it will not hold vacuum overnight. The york is the original from 1978.

Different note,,, what tells the compressor in these trucks to disengage the clutch when the evap coil is down to temp or does it just run.

Newer systems all have high/low cut outs.

 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 01:14 PM
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Its not designed to be a cylcing compressor via a pressure switch so yea, it just runs. The expansion valve regulates refrigerant flow through evap to maintain a proper evap temp. If you haven't already, you might want to start by replacing every Oring in every fitting that has one. Even if it doesn't solve the leak, its good insurance. If the system hasn't been in use for a long time the leak could be any number of places and not necessarily an oring but they are the most likely point of leaks in an old system. And yea You'll want it to hold full vaccum overnight at the least. I was surprised the first time after pulling a vacuum after a full rebuild on mine it held full vac for 2 days. I'm still running R12 so very important to not have leaks. Small leak not as big a deal for 134A
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 02:47 PM
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I used all new orings going back together. Before i removed the system, it has a super small leak, needed a small shot of 134 every other season. I pressurized the system and soaped everything and saw nothing. I went ahead and charged it a little and will tr the sniffer tonight.

If i need a compressor, i will most likely swap in a sanden. Looking at Original Air,, they offer an evap thermostat switch. Can find a pic or diagram for it. Anyone install one? is the fixes displacement sanden ok to run non stop or will it blow the high side apart?

If i upgrade i would like to add high and low pressure switches in the system.

Chris
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 04:21 PM
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Assuming factory, it has a low temp cutout switch in the evaporator housing. Probe goes into the evaporator coil.
 
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