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Well i don’t know if you all remember me I had an issue getting my 2000 f150 5.4 started so after 6 months of Setting and letting part changers Change parts I decided to have it towed to a shop. They got it started but they say drivers side bank is dead well I know it wasn’t dead before and they are telling me it’s timing belt. Also I know before i sent it off I had broke the Evap solenoid hose but the mechanic said it was fixed when it arrived but he didn’t fix it and I didn’t either , could that be what is would be a misfire he said it starts but has a hard time getting down the road. I never had the problem before the starter went out what should I do? They have had my truck since the beginning of may just two weeks ago it got started
All i know is they told me they got it started and it misfires really bad that it barely wants to go down the highway and that the drivers side is completely dead and he did say he was gonna run some compression tests but I think if it wasn’t misfiring before it wouldn’t start then it shouldn’t after they got it to start but I do know that a broken vacuum line can cause it not to get the get up and go that it needs to have. I could show you exactly what’s was broken when it went out rhere and I told him about it and he said it was fixed that someone fixed it but if I didn’t fix it and he didn’t fix it then I know it’s broke because I broke it myself
So I went to where my truck is at and ran the blue driver and this is my results. It does start but as soon and it’s put in gear it idles so low it just about dies
Blown fuse (or open circuit). F23 under the hood. Without it supplying power to all its loads, you'll have a transmission that won't work right, a truck that can barely get moving, and about a dozen or more P-codes for everything that's missing power.
Fix that then re-evaluate.
Lots of previous threads, common issue. Plug "F23" into the SEARCH box and look at the ones in this forum section.
The B1318 is probably a spurious code or a weak battery. Obviously, a low battery is sub-optimal but it won't cause the majority of the faults noted. Do ensure it is adequate.
Fix the unpowered circuit that is causing most of the drivability symptoms. Then, re-evaluate.
Battery brand new wasn’t ever even hooked up to the truck until it got to the mechanics. Except one time. The valve is broken where the hose connects to the Evap canister I know fhis much. I also didn’t even attempt to drive it I just put it in drive and it sounded so bad
I replaced the Evap purge selenoid and the gas separator or whatever the green line that is connected to it and reran the test and this is my new results. It still idkes rough and acts as if it wants to die but I did manage to get it home but at least results are different and it’s not the timing belt any ideas what may still be causing the bogging down
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