Good day gentlemen, i appreciate your help so thank you in advance. I am working on a 1994 f150 inline 6 cylinder with a 5 speed manual transmission. I am saying it's a 1994 because the owner's manual has 1994 on it but when I run the vin on the www it says it's a 1995, it was manufacture 10/94. The truck was parked for several years before I got it. I drove it home but definitely had problems, lack of power, loss of power accelerating, jerking while driving.

What I've done so far: new distributor, new plugs, new distributor cap, new rotor button, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, and a new starter solenoid. I attached a fuel pressure gauge, with the key on engine off i get 52 psi fuel pressure instantly when I turn the key on. With the engine running at idle I get about 48 psi, if I remove the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator the fuel pressure goes up to 52 or 53 psi. shut the engine off and come back 24 hours later fuel pressure is about 35 psi. I have good spark at the plugs. The timing was set, with the spout connector unplugged, dead on 10 degrees BTDC per the sticker under the hood.
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Now the problem: the truck is hard to start but once it starts it idles nicely for about 3 minutes, then it starts erratic idling. RPMs up RPMs down RPMs up RPMs down RPMs up RPMs down with engine stuttering RPMs up RPMs down with worse stuttering and shaking RPMs up RPMs down with worse stuttering, shaking and the engine dies. Now the engine will not restart but turns over fine and I can hear the fuel pump humming and fuel pressure is about 52 psi. When the truck dies I can hear clicking noises under the hood but have not been able to isolate them before they stop clicking, it does sound like it is coming from the fuel infector area. I hooked up a code reader to the PCM per the code reader instruction manual, I believe it's an Innova code reader for an OBD 1. The symbol saying the reader is connected to the PCM shows up on the reader screen, I go through all the steps to retrieve the codes but the reader has no codes in it. I have tried on several occasions to retrieve the codes with no luck at all. I am hoping to find an analog electric meter and try to retrieve the codes with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated gentlemen.

 

Disconnect the battery and then pull the PCM out for inspection.

 

Thank You for your input/advice. I can definitely do that, may be tomorrow but I will get the PCM out and inspect it. Excuse my ignorance but what am I looking for? Can I basically open the PCM to look inside it? Again thank you sir.

 

There is a 10MM bolt in the middle of the PCM that you loosen. The bolt will not come out only loosen. Disconnect the PCM harness. You will need to use a broom or similar to push down on the wheel well to be able to slide the PCM out all the way. Then open it up and look mainly at the capacitors which there are two or three and standing upright. If they are bulging or leaking or components are burned, you will need a PCM and they are available at Parts stores. All are reconditioned but come with a warranty. Let Conanski know if you need one and he will make sure you get the right one.

 

With a build date of Oct ‘94 it is most likely a ‘95. Is the emissions sticker under the hood? That will also tell you the model year.

 

Good day gentlemen I hope you are staying cool in this heat. I will definitely look at the emission sticker for the year model if it's still there, didn't think to look when I was tinkering on the truck a bit ago. I removed the PCM and there is definitely a problem. I can only assume it's a capacitor, from the description above, it is standing up, and it is toast, even I can see that LOL. So now I suppose I need a new PCM. Here is what's on the sticker on the PCM I pulled out:

EEC-IV EFI-SD40A
F3TF-12A650-NC G POP2
63ESA40A59 13288-205 4J14

I have checked Rockauto and they sell them for about $105.00 or I can probably get one locally for a little more money. So where do I go from here gentlemen, obviously purchase a new PCM, but how do I make sure I am getting the correct PCM? Again I thank you all for your input and advice, it is greatly appreciated.

 

10th position in the VIN denotes the model year of the truck. R= 1994, S= 1995.

 

Thank you sir I really appreciate this knowledge. The 10th position in the VIN on this truck is an S so that should make it a 1995 model then and not a 1994. I feel more confident ordering a PCM for this truck now. Again I thank you.

 

Which is why the VIN decoder said it was a 1995.