Agreed on all points! Just stand it on end and let any excess oil in there drain out. You could pour diesel or a solvent through to ‘rinse’ it, but not required.

The CAC tubes can be cleaned with pressure washer and if boots are nasty, clean with diesel and a brush then with brake cleaner. You want ZERO oil or film on the boots and ends of piping, etc when you assemble it. I like to put them together while wet with brake cleaner for easier assembly and it almost glues the boots to pipes for reduced chances of leaks or blowing one off.

 

not sure how common they are but my fuel filter housing came factory with no heater not even a port in the side for it. does not have the pig tail in the wire harness to connect to the heater either. it is an e99 and came with a block heater. i only say this as i thought i read above that yours had a cracked stand. maybe theres a used one off an e99 out there you could purchase and no need for a tap and dies set?

 

Thanks y’all, good stuff. I have all new boots and clamps from Rifraf diesel. I bought a new KC center section with upgraded wheel, new bolts and re-install kit, non EBPV pedestal and bellowed up pipe kit, all from Rifraf. Best customer care all the way around. Love the personal service, and good prices too.
Anyway, glad to hear that I don’t need to do anything to the intercooler except clean the outside. Thanks SkySkiJason for the tips on installing the boots.
Got a new engine wiring harness too. Guess where.
Got the rebuilt turbo and up pipes installed this morning as well as the new oil cooler and starter. Stopped for lunch and began to install the spyder, boots and wiring harness. After that I think I’m ready to start re-assembling the front of the engine. Kinda getting excited about being this close. It’s been torn down for a long time. Here are a couple of pics. Thank you all again. I love this place more than Rifraf, and I heard about them here.

 

Forgot to mention, I stood my intercooler on end a couple of days ago and leaned it so one opening was the lowest point so it could drain, so it should be good by now. Glad I don’t have to do anything else.

 

dsrace, Thanks for the suggestion, but I think I’m committed to what I’ve already done for the moment. Won’t know how it turned out till I get finished installing the engine.
It is definitely possible that I could have to do something different on the fuel filter housing but I hope not. Also I’m not familiar with early 99 but I think they have a different fuel Filter housing and it might not be very simple to make the swap. But, after I had already removed the check valve and spring from mine I called a friend who gave me a good center stand that he had laying around. Anyway, problem solved for now. Thanks again.

 

Good work man! Thanks for sharing! We love our friends at @Riffraff Performance for good reason.

Looks great.

 

Hope I get to share a video of it running sometime in the next few days.
I think I could finish tomorrow if I had all day but I’ve got a lot of other stuff to do on Monday and Tuesday.
I haven’t been in a hurry because I’m retired and I have other stuff to drive. But now I’m so close I can’t wait. I bought this just to haul my camper. Dry weight is 15,800. I don’t think there is anything better for the job.
Thanks again SkySkiJason and everyone for all your help and input. I’ll keep you posted.

 

Great pics, thanks for sharing!

Engine sooo clean, with telltale marks on bolts... schwing!

 

Well if anyone is still following this thread, here’s the latest.
As you can see from the pics I got the engine back in the truck and a few days ago I found time to actually get it started. It runs great but it had a couple oil leaks. All the fuel bowl mods worked out fine so far. The leak in the valley was easy. It was the IPR O-ring. The other turned out to be the oil pan at the rear, which was good but also bad. Had to remove the engine again to re-seal the pan.
At first I thought it was the main seal because the Rifraf rebuild kit came with an OEM seal and wear sleeve. I opened the package and removed the wear sleeve from the seal. Then learned that the sleeve and seal have to be installed together and separating them could damage the seal. So I bought a new seal, Mahle, not OEM. But the pan where the rear cover meats it did not seal up properly. I couldn’t determine why it didn’t seal properly but I think it may have been lack of cleanliness.
Even though I wiped everything down with alcohol before applying Motorcraft sealant. Any way, got it sealed up and reinstalled. No leaks.
Engine runs great and since I’ve never rebuilt a diesel engine I’d have to say I’m a pretty lucky guy and I couldn’t have done it without the knowledge I was able to access here on this site and some advice from Rifraf Diesel. Thank you again all.
I feel fortunate that it turned out as well as it did.
I hope that my experience with the rear main seal and wear sleeve can help someone in the future as well as the importance of cleanliness when installing the oil pan since the only way to seal that up right is to remove the engine.
I am certain now that almost anyone can accomplish anything regarding these engines no matter how inexperienced with the advice available here on this forum. Y’all make me look so smart. Thank you!!

 

Good work man.

 

Thanks SkySkiJason. I’m pretty happy with it. Have only driven it about 60 miles so far because the tires are sketchy. Been sitting for a couple years. I’ve got new tires ordered, they will be here this week. Next week I have an appointment at a local shop to get the A/C back online. Then there are a few small projects I want to get done, I have electric over hydraulic brakes on my camper so I bought a controller that will operate them properly, need to get that put in and a new windshield. Haven’t made my mind up yet but I’m pretty sure I’m gonna air bag it. I put them on my last truck and I helped my son put them on 2015 both F250’s. Also want to buy new headlight, turn and tail lights. Any experience or suggestions on the aftermarket LED’s ? I would like to find an 8’ dually bed that is white and in better condition than mine. It had a headache rack mounted to the top rail that was apparently not fastened down good and it broke the top rail, the fenders are cracked, no tailgate and a few dings.It could be fixed but I think it would be cheaper to replace. Any suggestions on where to find one would be appreciated. I’d like to get it all buttoned up by winter so we can go a little farther south for a bit.
Everyone here has been so friendly and helpful. It made this adventure so much more enjoyable. By the way my wife looked at me like I had lost my mind when I told her what my plan was. I know she thought I was nuts. I just thumb my nose at her now.

 

By the way if anyone is interested. The total cost was right at $9,000. I did a lot that was not necessary such as the turbo, bellowed up pipes, water pump, fan clutch, hoses and belts. Also replaced the engine harness that had not caused a problem but was in very poor condition.

 

Do you have the resources to just build a flatbed instead of trying to find another dually bed? Reason that I am proposing that is you could build in some cargo boxes to carry stuff with a lot more convenience than trying to find room for it in the pickup style bed.
Attached is a picture of my truck to better illustrate what I'm saying.

 

I think I would rather have a bed similar to that. Nice looking truck, Kwikkordead.
I have considered building it myself, I have the resources just not a facility. I rented a 20’ overseas shipping container to build my engine because I have no garage or shop. I could build it outside but I’m at the mercy of the weather and it has been Africa hot here lately. I own a 40’ container on my sons property where I keep my tools and store things because we live in our 5th wheel. We own a house but rent it to my daughter and her family. Back to the subject. Did you build from scratch and what would you do different if you started again.
Also looks like you have aftermarket headlights, are you happy with them. Or would you go a different way on those?

 

If AC system is discharged, replace the orifice tube with a 38639 (orange) for coldest air.

For headlights, the best light you can get from stock lights is to use the clear lens ‘02-04 headlight assemblies, a relay harness and HELLA 100/80watt bulbs. www.rallylights.com is a good source for relay harness.