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I hope you can help me. Bought an old work truck as a project and it’s missing the transfer case shifter.
1989 F350 with 351W. It’s a single cab, single rear wheel, long bed, with C6 Transmission and NP208 transfer case
C6 tail housing is stamped “D8TP-7A040-AA”.
The tail housing only has one hole to mount a shifter to. The truck floor pan has the shifter hole on the side of the center hump.
I’m trying to figure out which shifter this setup needs. There are at least 3 manual shifters I’m seeing on 80-96.
Anything you can do to help would be greatly appreciated. This is one of the shifters I’m seeing. It’s the “pull to your side then into low” kind. This is just a straight pull. This one you push down then pull into low.
Last edited by bccfolife; Jul 5, 2022 at 10:35 PM.
Reason: Better title
I could be wrong, but if you've got an NP208 transfer case, I don't think it's stock. I'm not saying it never existed, but basically every Bricknose and Aerobrick I've ever seen has got a BW1356, with a smattering of BW1345s thrown in here and there. I don't think I've ever seen a Factory New Process case in these trucks.
I think you’re right. Np208’s should be in a late 70’s model. A BW should be in this truck. The 208 works great though. I’ve crawled under and shifted it by hand. Everything works. I’d prefer to use a shifter though.
this is the connection between the shifter of an NP208 and the linkage which is a rod thats threaded(adjustment) and it goes into a lever. The shifter assembly exists on the floor pan and then there are shift rail stuff on the tcase, I assume they coordinate and presumptively with minimal drivetrain flexing around(because you have good mounts) = works out
This, however, is a GM truck. you have a NP208 which drops the other side and is unknown to me how the ford one works. 1983 c6 + np208 ford shifter. uncomfortably close to leg imo, but that must because of the drop not for funsies appears to need to be anchored to it???pricy looks like it anchored to the adapter, does your c6 have a small adapter that makes a round pattern for the np208 to mate to
looks like the factory ford option wouldnt be hard to attach assuming you have a normal setup. but the cost is the same as a cable setup but you need to do more owrk presumably, but it would allow more options of mounting it.
This is one of the shifters I’m seeing. It’s the “pull to your side then into low” kind. This is a 88-91 setup, the shifter handle in your picture is missing but it goes on the left side of the thing, and comes out into the cab thru an opening in the side of the trans tunnel. Good reliable setup but not what you need.
This is just a straight pull. This is exactly what you need. Don't worry you can't really shift into low range accidentally when shooting for 4hi, and it's reliable as it gets due to its simplicity.
This one you push down then pull into low.This is for 92-97 trucks, it's stupid to operate IMHO and the push-down bit likes to get stuck, also it comes into the cab thru the side of the trans tunnel, run away from it lol.
I know that you can use a 1989 shifter and make it work with the NP208 because that's what we did with my truck and it works fine
If you remove the gated plate you can use just about any shifter-case combo. The one exception is the '87 (typically) setup where the shifter and the case lever connect via a slider setup.
If I get the straight pull what trans tunnel and boot will I need? From what years?
Wait sorry I misread your initial post. For the side-of-tunnel opening you could use either your picture #1 or #3, but I absolutely despise the 92-up design (they used a version of it on the SD trucks too) so I'd always suggest the 88-91 setup you got in picture #1. BUT! Since your C6 only has one hole, and the #1 setup uses two holes, just yank the gated plate off the shifter mechanism, that's literally all the 2nd bolt is/used for. Pop a big washer of suitable size in place of the plate and bolt the shifter to the transmission, check to make sure the tooth the used to engage the gates doesn't hit anything and if it does then just grind or cut it off. What you end up with is a straight-pull shifter that uses your factory transmission tunnel and boot and will never give you trouble in shifting thru all the t-case modes and ranges.
Wait sorry I misread your initial post. For the side-of-tunnel opening you could use either your picture #1 or #3, but I absolutely despise the 92-up design (they used a version of it on the SD trucks too) so I'd always suggest the 88-91 setup you got in picture #1. BUT! Since your C6 only has one hole, and the #1 setup uses two holes, just yank the gated plate off the shifter mechanism, that's literally all the 2nd bolt is/used for. Pop a big washer of suitable size in place of the plate and bolt the shifter to the transmission, check to make sure the tooth the used to engage the gates doesn't hit anything and if it does then just grind or cut it off. What you end up with is a straight-pull shifter that uses your factory transmission tunnel and boot and will never give you trouble in shifting thru all the t-case modes and ranges.
Not trying to hijack a post but still learning this forum. I’m having issues with my t case shifter. I just converted to a manual shift t case and have the brick nose style shifter. Well the t case and linkage bar coke from a 93 and linkage bar seems to be wrong size for my shifter setup. Does anyone have a m5od/zf5 and bw1356 setup on the brick nose style shifter that they can measure the link bar for me? I’ve searched every where and I can only find info on the aero nose plunger setup
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