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Code 18 is probably a real error since the engine is dying. A quick check with a meter will verify the IDM circuit is good or bad. Either way I doubt it is causing your stalling issue. Start the engine then start wriggling wires. Not sure if the ICM/TFI wires are inside a foil sheath like the 1992 and up truck are, but that shield is known to wear through the wire insulation and cause issues.
yes there is that shield that covers up 3 wires all the way from where tfi plugs in to the driver side fender well. On the tfi plug side, it actually came off a portion of the wire and I put electrical tape over the area that no longer had shield
Just because the TFI module is new, I would NOT assume that is Not the problem
Was it a Motorcraft module?
How about
Do the pinpoint testing for the code 18 with a star tester that will beep as you do the wiggle test like the book says
There's a good chance it is the processor at fault
Just because the TFI module is new, I would NOT assume that is Not the problem
Was it a Motorcraft module?
How about
Do the pinpoint testing for the code 18 with a star tester that will beep as you do the wiggle test like the book says
There's a good chance it is the processor at fault
not motor craft. I’ve tried autozone, Napa eichlin and standard. I’ll need to look up what test that is. Right now the car starts but idling rough and the tach is moving slightly just in park. once it heats up and i drive, i know it will be die again. One thing to note is if i disconnect the spout, the tach stops doing that movement
If 3 modules, a fourth will do nothing for you IMO
Explain tach movement
That sounds like a processor issue
Run the vehicle outside where you can watch it run for 20 minutes while you have a beer or lunch
Have a spark tester on it as it runs
Verify it is losing spark and then dies or dies and is still sparking
Is the distributor cap, okay? No carbon tracking? How about the rotor? Look inside the shaft hole for carbon tracking on the rotor
If the rotor shorts out you get a no spark
The coil wire ohms out okay?
If 3 modules, a fourth will do nothing for you IMO
Explain tach movement
That sounds like a processor issue
Run the vehicle outside where you can watch it run for 20 minutes while you have a beer or lunch
Have a spark tester on it as it runs
Verify it is losing spark and then dies or dies and is still sparking
Is the distributor cap, okay? No carbon tracking? How about the rotor? Look inside the shaft hole for carbon tracking on the rotor
If the rotor shorts out you get a no spark
The coil wire ohms out okay?
If 3 modules, a fourth will do nothing for you IMO
Explain tach movement
That sounds like a processor issue
Run the vehicle outside where you can watch it run for 20 minutes while you have a beer or lunch
Have a spark tester on it as it runs
Verify it is losing spark and then dies or dies and is still sparking
Is the distributor cap, okay? No carbon tracking? How about the rotor? Look inside the shaft hole for carbon tracking on the rotor
If the rotor shorts out you get a no spark
The coil wire ohms out okay?
posted vid of tach above. The cap and rotor are new. I’ve tried 2 sets of those. I’ll get a spark tester and do what you said. From what I have seen so far, it won’t die in park. Only will die in drive but at a stop
That should not have caused any damage, but you never know
Maybe if they had the key on and then welded you might hurt the processor
Back when, we would just go to the junkyard and grab a processor
Expensive proposition now, swapping a processor on a whim, but that's what I'd probably do at this point
That should not have caused any damage, but you never know
Maybe if they had the key on and then welded you might hurt the processor
Back when, we would just go to the junkyard and grab a processor
Expensive proposition now, swapping a processor on a whim, but that's what I'd probably do at this point
Ran another KOER test today... I got codes 32 and 34 R. Could this cause the rough idling/bouncing tach? What about causing the car to die?
That should not have caused any damage, but you never know
Maybe if they had the key on and then welded you might hurt the processor
Back when, we would just go to the junkyard and grab a processor
Expensive proposition now, swapping a processor on a whim, but that's what I'd probably do at this point
better view of tach and you can hear the engine rough too
I doubt it, both those codes are EVP codes
Shouldn't make the tach bounce or make the engine die
Sure, looks like it's idling so low, it is about to die
Wondering if the IAC works and if the base idle is set correctly or if the throttle plate has ever been messed with
How about the base timing?
I doubt it, both those codes are EVP codes
Shouldn't make the tach bounce or make the engine die
Sure, looks like it's idling so low, it is about to die
Wondering if the IAC works and if the base idle is set correctly or if the throttle plate has ever been messed with
How about the base timing?
The hood says to set timing to 6 degrees with spout out. I've got it set to 8 degrees. I also adjusted the idle months ago to be about 800 in park and 550 in drive. thats what hood sticker says. The IAC I disabled months ago because it was stuck on high idle.
Every Ford I've ever seen had you set the initial timing at 10 degrees with the spout out
Low timing will cause low idle speed and insufficient vacuum
Post a picture of the VECI that says that please
I'd start there
Every Ford I've ever seen had you set the initial timing at 10 degrees with the spout out
Low timing will cause low idle speed and insufficient vacuum
Post a picture of the VECI that says that please
I'd start there
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