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Hi all,
When I bought my truck the PO gave me a Pertronix 1 electronic ignition module. So I decided to install. Which wire on the back of the ignition switch is the so called resistor wire? I’ve heard that the pink wire is, but also that the orange-ish one labeled “do not cut or splice” is the resistor wire. Just need a little help here. I’ve tried looking at the fordification wiring diagrams but it’s real hard to follow that wire along the whole system. Thanks, here a pic of my ignition switch, (72 f250)
Bit of backstory, I’m trying to tap the positive side of the Pertronix into the resistor wire near the beginning so I’m getting the full 12 volts the Pertronix wants, but the factory coil remains resisted.
If you dont want to cut the resistor wire, you could use it as switched power to a relay then bring 12 volts from the battery. I think what you mentioned above, is how I ended running the 12 volts on my 70 f250 when I added a HEI distributor. On my 72 f250 that I am in the process of wiring, I completely removed the resistor wire from the harness. I put a different 2 wire connector in it and ran 2 wires without the resistor. Plenty of options and ways to do it. https://www.fordification.com/tech/w...-70_master.jpg. I use the 70 and 72 wiring diagrams from fordi, but mostly the 70. I like it better because it shows plugs and switches. I reference the 72 sometimes when chasing a specific color of wire.
I have my F250 300 inline 6 ready for a Pertronix Ignitor 1 installation. I am using the "pink" resister wire to trigger my Bosh relay that has full 12 volts connected to it from the battery. This system makes it easy to go back to a stock P&C distributor on a temp bases if needed.
I don't believe you will get the Pertronix ignition working to your satisfaction with the stock coil. Go online for the instructions and read about which coil to use for Ignitor I and Ignitor 2.
i don't bother with 12 volts to the pertronix 1 unit for stock low power engines. just hook the wires up to the coil and they are good to go.
what i do though is make points gap wider, and advance timing around 5 degrees.
i have at least 100 installed over the past 45 years, two on 70's ford F750's with 391 power that have over 1 million miles on them and still purr like kittens.
i have only had one unit fail on me, and that was in my 65 289 falcon back in 1985 and it failed less than 5 minutes of install.
the replacement unit i got from pertronix is still in it 37 years later.
We’ve had some not respond well to lower voltage over the years. But I love hearing TJC transport‘s experience with so many!
It’s a good sign at all that was a good reliable service from them as well.
it’s possible the ones that were not working well with the resistor wire we’re dealing with even lower voltage than normal. But I don’t remember how many of those people actually checked, or what the results were.
If you look at the back of the switch you’ll notice that in your picture it looks like the resistor wire is paired with another red with green wire.
You can tap into that wire instead try to avoid cutting into your resistor wire because they are hard to splice.
More trouble than it’s worth.
The two most common wires to use are the red with green stripe for the ignition, and green with red strip for the voltage regulator. without a diagram I’m not sure why yours has a second wire paired with that green and red color.
What year is your truck? (Nevermind I see you said it is a 72)
