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I was looking into ways to make a little more power safely out of my 96 7.3 and a billet compressor wheel seems like a great way. I do tow a 22 foot flatbed trailer with a race car every once in a while but nothing heavy but the pros of having a lighter compressor wheel seem great as it increases throttle response. I noticed that eBay has billet compressor wheels marketed as wicked wheels which are usually 220$ but the ones on eBay are only 60$. I plan on going with a 7x7 wheel even though I will lose some boost I will gain boost quicker. In the end I am getting a new compressor wheel but wanted to know if I should steer clear of the eBay ones.
I was looking into ways to make a little more power safely out of my 96 7.3 and a billet compressor wheel seems like a great way. I do tow a 22 foot flatbed trailer with a race car every once in a while but nothing heavy but the pros of having a lighter compressor wheel seem great as it increases throttle response. I noticed that eBay has billet compressor wheels marketed as wicked wheels which are usually 220$ but the ones on eBay are only 60$. I plan on going with a 7x7 wheel even though I will lose some boost I will gain boost quicker. In the end I am getting a new compressor wheel but wanted to know if I should steer clear of the eBay ones.
Wicked Wheel is an OBS wheel.
The only way you're going to get a better stock style wheel is to get Riff Raff's custom designed on on their site.
Which.. he labeled as wicked wheel 2 or something, which I don't particularly care for, but whatever.
The original Wicked Wheel was a scam from one of the diesel companies that build parts and stuff, it was for the super duty surge issue, because the SD turbo wheels are a bit more agressive. So they marketed it as a better wheel for your super duty, when it was actually an older wheel for our trucks.
And of course everyone still just ignores this company spent years ripping people off and continue to support them. hahaha
Most important things for a bit more power.
Downpipe.
intake filter.
With those 2 things, you'll see improvements far greater than a wheel change.
There are quite a few little mods that give you some bump.
The EGR delete.
The old BB mod in the FPR to get the fuel pressure up a bit, that helps.
If youre determined to have a quicker spool, the wheel wont necessarily fix that for you either.
Exhaust housing is what you need to be looking at.
The old school fix for that was to use the van turbo housing, it was a bit quicker on spooling.
My wheel is from SPturbooost. Works fine, I think it was about 35g less dead mass. Paired with a 1.0 turbine, it spools adequate with the stone age turbine wheel. Now, KC offers a drop in CHRA with a reverse rotation S300 wheel and a billet wheel, pair that with a 0.84 or 1.0 turbine housing and off you go.
Have you been using complete turbos or just the wheel?
Me? I've done both, both have been fine. 99% of this crap comes out of the same place anyway, then people do mental gymnastics to justify paying 3 and 4x as much.
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