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Questions on hpop replacement, still leaking after 2 gaskets
I am going to be replacing my hpop soon and noticed some sets of instructions advise to take off the hpop reservoir cap and others do not. Would taking the cap off just help with alignment of the hpop to the drive gear during installation? I got the cap gasket just in case but would rather not take it off if it's unnecessary. Since this is my first time removing the hpop, what is a reasonable time frame to do this job? ( Trying to do this in between kids softball and baseball tournaments). From all the instructions I have read it doesn't look to bad and is straight forward but if anyone has any tips or tricks I would be happy to hear them. I got all new o-rings for hpop lines ( JIC) , ipr o-rings, parker sleeves, and replacing the fuel lines going to the heads with riffraffs stainless steel braided lines to be proactive.
another question is that being that I got a new 17* Bosch it comes with stc fittings already installed and I'm going to have to remove them for my JIC fittings. Really worried about buggering up the threads on a brand new hpop so would you guys suggest using a little heat to release the loctite on the stc threads?
If you're doing this for the first time I would probably suggest pulling the reservoir. The bolt and washer can be a little tricky with the tight quarters, plus wouldn't hurt to clean out the reservoir for the new pump anyway. The job itself will probably take 4+- hours, but you'll need to give the thread sealer at least an overnight to cure.
As for swapping the fittings in the new pump, not sure I'd put heat on it. The sealant is rated for 350-400 I believe so you'd have to get up around 500 to really do much good. If you're getting it that hot then any and all other o rings would need replaced.
If you're doing this for the first time I would probably suggest pulling the reservoir. The bolt and washer can be a little tricky with the tight quarters, plus wouldn't hurt to clean out the reservoir for the new pump anyway. The job itself will probably take 4+- hours, but you'll need to give the thread sealer at least an overnight to cure.
As for swapping the fittings in the new pump, not sure I'd put heat on it. The sealant is rated for 350-400 I believe so you'd have to get up around 500 to really do much good. If you're getting it that hot then any and all other o rings would need replaced.
Thanks udsuth, that's exactly what I was afraid of is ruining the internals of the new hpop if using heat. I asked clay and he said to use heat but I'm a little worried about melting something internally. Its probably a lot easier to remove the fittings on a old hpop that's been through a lot of heat cycles but the new hpop might be a little more difficult to get the fittings out I would imagine.
For the thread sealant curing, are you just referring to the 2 hpop outlet fittings? Just making sure there isn't anything else that takes sealant. I think loctite 680 is what I got
So I got the new Bosch hpop installed over the weekend, put new o-rings on ipr and the pump outlet fittings, and new hpop gasket. Truck fired up and ran great after only about 10 seconds of cranking which I was pretty surprised about. After letting it idle for about 10-15 minutes I noticed I have a slow leak coming from under the hpop and the aft outlet fitting. Tightened up the jam but on the outlet fitting and got that leak to stop but can't stop the leak from under the hpop. Using my borescope it looks like it is the hpop mounting gasket leaking by the non serviceable plug so I checked the hpop mounting bolts again and they are within spec at 18 ft. Lbs. Bumped it up to 20 ft. Lbs and got about a 1/8 turn on the passenger hold down bolt. This helped slow the leak a lot but still noticing a very slow leak gradually making its way to the valley under hpop ( cleaned valley several times to make sure it's not residual). got my torque wrench tested by local snap-on guy ( it's a snap on tourque wrench), and he says the wrench is within spec so I'm not sure what to do now. Should I try to torque the bolts again while engine is hot? Just super afraid of cracking the front cover. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
So I got the new Bosch hpop installed over the weekend, put new o-rings on ipr and the pump outlet fittings, and new hpop gasket. Truck fired up and ran great after only about 10 seconds of cranking which I was pretty surprised about. After letting it idle for about 10-15 minutes I noticed I have a slow leak coming from under the hpop and the aft outlet fitting. Tightened up the jam but on the outlet fitting and got that leak to stop but can't stop the leak from under the hpop. Using my borescope it looks like it is the hpop mounting gasket leaking by the non serviceable plug so I checked the hpop mounting bolts again and they are within spec at 18 ft. Lbs. Bumped it up to 20 ft. Lbs and got about a 1/8 turn on the passenger hold down bolt. This helped slow the leak a lot but still noticing a very slow leak gradually making its way to the valley under hpop ( cleaned valley several times to make sure it's not residual). got my torque wrench tested by local snap-on guy ( it's a snap on tourque wrench), and he says the wrench is within spec so I'm not sure what to do now. Should I try to torque the bolts again while engine is hot? Just super afraid of cracking the front cover. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I got a bad 'new' gasket once.....it happens. I would be careful about torqueing too tight.
No sealant of any kind. Gasket might of gotten damaged when you installed it.
From what I can tell it looks like it's leaking from the same spot my old pump was leaking from but I did not see any cracks or anything on the front cover where the pump mounts up . I was pretty careful when installing the new gasket but I guess there is always that possibility. Hate to go through all that again but at least this time it will only take me half the time it did the first time I installed the pump. Do you guys recommend putting a little bit of anti-seize on the pump hold down bolts or a tiny dab of Grease?
From what I can tell it looks like it's leaking from the same spot my old pump was leaking from but I did not see any cracks or anything on the front cover where the pump mounts up . I was pretty careful when installing the new gasket but I guess there is always that possibility. Hate to go through all that again but at least this time it will only take me half the time it did the first time I installed the pump. Do you guys recommend putting a little bit of anti-seize on the pump hold down bolts or a tiny dab of Grease?
The replacement gasket was what mine needed....no sealant, you really don't want any of that getting blown thru your oil system.
Thanks for the advice guys, looks like I will dig back in there with a new gasket. Here is a pic after running the truck all day, granted I have not been able to clean up under the pump but the leak is so minimal now that it was not able to make any kind of puddle in the first dip in the valley under the pump. It was leaking quite a bit worse( would make a puddle), until I snugged up the bolts a little bit. Just enough to make it look wet, and to **** me off
You're sure it's the mounting gasket and not from another source higher up working it's way down? I ask because the area in your pic is where the intake for the pump is located. You don't have any hpo related issues do you?
You're sure it's the mounting gasket and not from another source higher up working it's way down? I ask because the area in your pic is where the intake for the pump is located. You don't have any hpo related issues do you?
No issues with hpo system, truck runs great and pulls like a ox. The mounting gasket is the only thing I can think of, the reservoir gasket looks good unless it's leaking from a point that I can't see and then dripping down. The reservoir gasket is new also. Maybe I will pull the reservoir first and see if I can get a better angle on the leak.
Might put your eyes on the "short circuit" valve, or whatever we're calling it currently. The plug for it is just to the DS of the hpop and res, right in the mix of your leak.
Might put your eyes on the "short circuit" valve, or whatever we're calling it currently. The plug for it is just to the DS of the hpop and res, right in the mix of your leak.
Udsuth sorry I'm just now seeing your post. What is this short circuit valve you speak of , I've never heard of it, what does it do? I just replaced the mounting gasket again with a new motorcraft gasket and still have a leak. Very slow leak but it is there, after running the truck all day there was a small puddle of oil in the first dip in the valley about the size of a nickel. When I removed the h-pop and it's inspected the gasket that came with it, it looked fine so not sure what the hell it could be. I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned the mating surfaces again. Looks to be leaking from the passenger side of the pump as well but could be running over from the driver side, not sure. Of course now my depstech borescope stopped working right when I was inspecting the leak, connects to phone but just has a black screen on the phone. there is not much in the settings menu except for resolution. I'm at a loss, The reservoir gasket is not leaking so I will try googling the short circuit valve to see what I come up with...
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