As we all know, the payload on the 2019 6.7 F250 is, well, bad. My question though, with me leveling the truck with a Carli kit and doing the Deaver “add a leaf” in the rear and adding 5K Firestone airbags, did I do anything productive to increase the payload (yes I know there is a “sticker”) or did I decrease the payload? I am also running 37 x 12.5 with a max load of 3750 each.

Reason for asking is a camper purchase is in the near future and we are trying to determine 5th wheel or travel trailer.

 

your payload is your axle ratings minus the current load you have on them

Take your truck accoss the scales and see where you stand.

They yellow sticker is...well yellow.

 

Are those D rated tires? Max 65 PSI?

 

Wow good catch. OP needs E rated tires with a air pressure at 80 PSI.

 

Not sure why you needed to level the truck then you added a lief to the springs. You don't need the extra lief.
Don't go over the CVWR. Sa for which rv to get I prefer a 5th wheel. I like the added weight over the rear wheels because on a windy road it will give your truck the added traction and keep the truck planted on the road.
Question Are those true Bead Lock wheels? If so I would not use those towing.

 

the 65 psi doesnt mean its a D rated tire. Look at nitto ridge grapplers. they have several sizes that are E rated tires with max psi ratings at 65. one example below and the note for ply rating from their site. E1 tires have max load at 80psi and E2 have max load at 65psi but both are 10 ply
tire size LT325/60R20 E 126/123Q maximum load 3750 @ 65
LT tires with a "C" load range have a 6-ply rating. LT tires with a "D" load range have an 8-ply rating. LT Tires with an "E" load range have a 10-ply rating. LT Tires with an "F" load range have a 12-ply rating. *Indicates Extra Load (XL)

 

Seriously. Adding air pressure does not add to the tires maximum rating.

 

Thanks for the correction. My rule of thumb for 80 psi load E tires is incorrect. Just haven’t seen that before.

 

You don't have any where near enough payload for most 5th wheels, maybe a 1/2 ton towable, but those are hard to find and many floor plans are not suitable for every ones purpose. You need to stay under 11,000 GVWR on any 5th wheel to not exceed your payload, and verify that the pin weight on the trailer is 20% or less GVW. You will be much better off with a conventional tow, many more choices for what you have, and pretty much any conventional can be towed with that truck.

You added weight to the truck with the lift kit, added leaf and upgraded E rated tires, so you lost payload. What you NEED to do, not a suggestion but a necessity, is load the family, and what ever else you think would be in the truck while traveling and get it weighed. Subtract that weight from the GVWR and you have your true available payload and use that to shop with.

Whatever you do, don't be this guy who overloaded his lifted F250 and couldn't stop in time to avoid getting hit.

 

How can you tell thats a 250 and that it was lifted?

 

I watched the video. The truck had a lift kit, aftermarket wheels, and off road tires. At the very beginning you can catch a glimpse of the truck that hit him. He blew a red light because he couldn't stop the truck it him in the rear and he lost control, flipping the truck over. Had the 5th wheel been attached with the 5th wheel prep instead of the aftermarket plate and frame kit, that trailer would have done some serious hurt to the guy and his family. Instead the trailer ripped the 5th wheel out of the bed and was able to remain upright.

That trailer is WAY over the GCVWR for the F250, WAY over the trailer towing specs, and WAY over the trucks payload on pin. At minimum, a trailer that big and heavy should be behind a dually. It's dry weight is upwards of 17,000, with a GVWR over near 20,000. My F350 has a 15K trailer limit for 5th wheel.

Heres the video, I couldn't find it yesterday.

 

Right around the 44 minute mark you can see the passenger side 250 badge. And around the 34 minute mark when they are hooking it up to flip. you can see the branded aftermarket radius arm drop brackets

 

So this guy had more going on than just a over weight truck. Not sure I approve with his hitch. Just like the Anderson very light weight. Looks like it sheared off the bolts. I have the B&W and it's not light weight at all. I would never use my truck to haul a toy hauler. You need a DRW for something that big. Another thing lifting your tow rig is asking for trouble. I dont condone anything this guy did and nothing I said about towing is wrong. I have some experience in towing. I also know when I have to much trailer for my truck.

 

I have the same hitch setup on my F350, why his came out, probably sheared the bolts and got damned lucky they did. Did you see the wheel? It shattered from the side forces of the trailer pushing the truck over.


That video is a very good example of how not having enough truck for the trailer gets you in trouble. Whenever someone says an F250 can tow something an F350 should be used for, show them this video, they are not the same. It is really one of the reasons I want to get a 2022 long bed, my 2012 short bed is right at the limits with a 13,500 GVWR 5th wheel. It handles it just fine, but it is at the limits and a bit over GVWR on the truck. It is just a bit under dually territory. The one in the video IS dually territory!

 

We have an F250, and I would say that it could tow what an F350 in the same configuration (CCSB, 4X4) could tow, but that's because the HCTT package made this F250 identical to the similarly equipped F350. As much as I hate to admit it, we are looking at possibly upgrading our camper next summer to a 5th wheel. However, I am looking at the half ton towables... The heaviest one we were looking at is somewhat confusing... it is an Eagle HT 28.5RSTS. What's confusing is that it lists the "unloaded weight" as 9150, the "GVWR" as 10995 and the "GCWR" at 13995. I don't understand what the GCWR means... I mean, I know what it stands for (Gross Combined Weight Rating), but how does it mean that for a 5th wheel.... what is the "combined" part, and why is it 2000 lbs more than what it lists the GVWR at? I thought GVWR was it, which is 11k lbs on this 5th wheel. Anyway, even if it was 13995, I think my F250 with the upgrades would still easily handle this weight, however, that is the most I would personally want to go with a single rear wheel, short bed... Also, now that I know we are considering a 5th wheel, I really wish I had just went with the long wheel base!