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So I had to replace my pushrods but I cant find the correct length to match what came out.
I have a Ford 360 engine.
I need 9.562inch as that is what came out of it.
I'm pretty sure my engine is stock apart from factory 4bbl intake someone put on it.
can't find the pushrods
anywhere
Anyone else run into the same issue?
+1 on the 85e150 post. If you need them, the original part number was C8AZ-6565-A (9.59"). I bought a box of 8 about 6 months ago from Federated Auto Parts.
Why are you replacing them? If they are straight and you have not done any modifications why would you replace them?
I noticed I was blowing blue smoke one day and pulled the valve covers.
ONe pushrod was snapped and one was severely bent on the passenger side of the motor.
I took that head to get a valve job. Would of done both but $$.
Pushrods on driver's side of motor we're fine but I rolled them on a glass pane and they all had a minuscule bent so I decided to get a whole new set.
THe ones I did get are a couple hairs shorter than what I needed but they have worked. They do have the chanel thru the middle for oil which my old ones did not but they have worked fine for the time I've had them in.
I would ideally like to get a new set of the correct pushrods and new lifters to go with them.
Hopefully the cups that the pushrods sit in on my rockers aren't too battered by that time.
I use the truck to drive to work and back maybe 3 times a week. 8 mile round trip. No other use. Hopefully it's not causing too many problems not having the correct pushrods.
A lot going on here. With a 4bbl intake and non-stock pushrods, I wouldn’t assume anything. You could have bad lifters, or a wiped out cam lobe. Check everything and measure your pushrod length. Chasing these problems sucks, especially when it’s your daily driver.
A lot going on here. With a 4bbl intake and non-stock pushrods, I wouldn’t assume anything. You could have bad lifters, or a wiped out cam lobe. Check everything and measure your pushrod length. Chasing these problems sucks, especially when it’s your daily driver.
When I had the passenger side head at the machine shop, I checked the cam lobes with a flash light thru the various holes in the top of the block beneath the removed intake manifold.
everything seemed to be in order, no wierd wear or damage to the cam that I could see.
I'm am super nervous about the pushrods now.
Why would the pushrods I pulled out of my motor be slightly longer than what i can find at the parts store when I tell them what motor I have?
Is it possible previous owner put in slightly oversized pushrods?
I managed to find a set of correct length FE pushrods online at O'Reilly's and had them ordered. Got them put in this evening and waiting for rtv on valve cover gaskets to set before I start it up.
There is a procedure for setting the rocker arms, so they have minimal load while tightening. I don’t have my Steve Christ book with me, so maybe someone else will chime in. You’re going to have to time the engine, when you drop in the distributor.
There is a procedure for setting the rocker arms, so they have minimal load while tightening. I don’t have my Steve Christ book with me, so maybe someone else will chime in. You’re going to have to time the engine, when you drop in the distributor.
I didn't remove the dist. To change the pushrods. Just took the valve covers off and rocker arms.
I put em back on half turn at a time and torqued to spec.
Drove it to work this morning and it seems to run just fine. No leaks or wierd noises.
Alright so after a few days of putting it around at max 2500rpm, I decided to give her the beans on the way home from work.
everything seemed ok and sounded ok but I would get very slight intermittent power loss when I put my foot down.
Did some googling and came up with it could be fuel delivery. Bad pump or clogged filter. My filters are new and the mechanical pump seems to be pumping.
This is a manual 4 speed. So I'm not really worried about the tranny but I can hear my Throwout bearing rattling like a can full of nuts n bolts. This make me think it could be my clutch is slipping? Hmm.
when I press in the clutch pedal the noise stops so I had figured it was the bearing.
Annnyyhooo I guess I'll get looking at clutch kits in the meantime
There is a procedure for setting the rocker arms, so they have minimal load while tightening. I don’t have my Steve Christ book with me, so maybe someone else will chime in. You’re going to have to time the engine, when you drop in the distributor.
Position the crankshaft at TDC of C/S on no.1 piston. Then, from there rotate the crankshaft clockwise another 45*. Tighten the rocker shaft bolts no more than 2 turns each pass starting on the passenger side bank and moving back to front (i.e. cyl's 4,3,2,1). Then, tighten the drivers side bank the same way only moving from front to back (i.e. cyl's 5,6,7,8)
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