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I'm setting up my hitch on my new truck and need some advice. In my old 03 250 out pulled great with the way it was setup. It was a little nose down though. Here's a pic of the new one. I left the hitch in the same place as it was and now with the wdh bars hooked up it's pretty much level. About a .5 inch low in the front as measured from my driveway. Think I should lower the ball some to get it nose down a bit more?
Looks pretty good to me as well. One thing to remember though is a slight nose down configuration will help mitigate sway. FWIW, I have to place a block under mine as well to get it off the truck.
Looks good to me, only one way to find out. Mine is fairly level and pulls good. I am usually on the nose down, but some say it affects performance. Long story short, I don't think there is a prefect answer for every application. I'd say you will pull great with that setup, if not drop a hole or alter the pitch if you have room to do so with the bars.
If it pulls good, don’t touch it. It looks really good in the picture
I carry a 6x8 guardrail block for the tongue jack. Just part of the cargo and lives in the camper just for that purpose. I wouldn’t let the need for a block influence my decision. I’ve never considered to not use a block. The jack is slow and I’m inpatient, and the block cuts a full 6” off the needed travel for the jack.
Thanks for all the input. I'll probably go for a quick drive this week before heading out on the drive to the beach this weekend and make sure it pulls good.
Check the WDH instructions. The WDH setups that I have had suggest that the spring bars need to be parallel to the trailer frame and a minimum number of chain links between the bars and snap up brackets. If that is so, then you may need to tilt the ball mount back a notch or 2.
Also it appears that your hitch is on the bottom on the tongue frame. I have heard that a trunnion WDH works best for that setup, so that the spring bars are not so close to the road. The round bar setup is better suited for a hitch on top of the tongue frame.
OK, 1 more item. It appears that the truck has settled a bit in the rear or raised in the front. Unless there is a lift kit installed, I would think that a properly adjusted WDH on a Super Duty would be level or even slightly high in back.
I'm at my campsite after a 400 mile tow on interstate. Seemed to pull really good. Went through a storm with very high winds and had some sway there, but nothing when big rigs passed.
I don't have the instructions for the hitch. The truck doesn't have a level. I measured the sag at 1.75 inches
If it pulls good, don’t touch it. It looks really good in the picture
I carry a 6x8 guardrail block for the tongue jack. Just part of the cargo and lives in the camper just for that purpose. I wouldn’t let the need for a block influence my decision. I’ve never considered to not use a block. The jack is slow and I’m inpatient, and the block cuts a full 6” off the needed travel for the jack.
I do the same thing for the same reasons. Plus, a big, wide block will help keep your jack from sinking into mud or sand or loose gravel or even just soft grass.
I do the same thing for the same reasons. Plus, a big, wide block will help keep your jack from sinking into mud or sand or loose gravel or even just soft grass.
I saw another member post these somewhere here on the FTE forums, so I picked one up. Granted, it wasn't cheap... but it is heavy and feels quite sturdy. I like that it has the squares in the top that capture the tongue jack foot (even though I didn't center it perfectly). I literally just unboxed this today and swapped out the cut down 4x4 that I had been using for this... so much better! I doubt the likelihood is very great, but being that the 4x4 was the same size as the tongue jack foot, I always pictured it rolling out from under the tongue jack... Plus, this does have a wider base so it provides more support, and it is taller, which is nice too.
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