New member here. I have recently purchased a 1989 E150 Club Wagon. It has a coolant leak on a connector at the end of a heater hose. Looking up heater hoses on my online supplier, I see there are many to choose from. I do not know which hose this leaky one is. Is there a diagram the labels each one? By the way, the e150 has rear heat. Thanks for any help! It is the hose in the center of the photo.

 

Forgot to add. It is a 302 engine.

 

Try 5/8" . You may want to find the molded hose that fits your van. If you buy 5/8" hose by the foot sometimes the hose kinks as you try to make the turns.

kinks as you try to make the turns.

 

Yes, I intend to get a molded hose. I just don't know which one this is. Also I need one with the plastic connector as this connector is cracked.

 

I am not sure if you will be able to find a molded hose with the factory connector. You can try rockauto.com .
I have always used clamps on all my heater hoses without any issues.

 

So, can I remove the plastic quick connector and clamp a hose to whatever is left?

 

That brings up another question. How are these connectors removed? The Ford manual shows a special tool. Is it necessary?

 

A propane torch works real well to remove the plastic connectors.



I am very not proud of this repair, but it should be Ok. Right?

 

The Quick Disconnectors in a replacement form are available from Dorman---I have some in various hose ID sizes and configurations as well.

The special tool recommended is highly valuable, has a bit of a learning curve only because too many are unaware which part is released and which part then pulls away from the hard line. Tabs on the white portion are pressed inward and held towards the hard line via the tool. At that point the black outer connector part is pulled away from the hard line, the white portion staying on the hard line. Find a YouTube video showing the removal process---it becomes easier each new time.

Some part numbers of Dorman fittings I've used: 800-411 (3/4" Tube, 3/4" ID Hose) 800-403 (5/8 Tube, 5/8" ID Hose)----they seem to be reliable and of good quality. They tend to come with "extra" internal seals to compensate for different tube lengths. Dorman's website page for these types heater hose connectors: Dorman Heater Hose Connectors

Tools I use are OTC 412-127 (5/8") & 412-130 (3/4"). Many different brands have these types available but I've had these for a few years now.

 

Those are quick connect they call them
Not quick disconnect as you will soon see
You can fight with the special tools to get them off or better yet just break the plastic
The parts are available to repair the ends and AZone has several molded hoses available for E and F series
Order hoses on ebay

 

And run the risk of damaging the hard lines to which they're connected! With a bit of patience and YouTube video watching these are not the easiest to remove but you'll be able to do it without damaging heater cores or other lines.

 

It takes finesse not a gorilla
Only the two tabs that hold the white clip in place need to be broken

 

So somewhere between a butterfly and this gorilla huh? How does one impart that made-up value anyway? For someone claiming to be a master mechanic some of these hackish suggestions you offer can cause more damage than necessary.

Using the correct tooling these type connectors are removed damage-free daily, no breaking anything on purpose to do so. Here's a few photos...........

Showing the tube as it exists under the connector:


Showing the locking tab ("white portion") installed on the tube awaiting the actual hose connector to be installed:


Showing a typical QD installed on a tube and how the proper tooling is used to remove it:


I would suggest using a small amount of PB Blaster etc around the connector where it meets the tube so its a bit easier to pull it away for removal. Once the tool has been inserted twist the connector back and forth a bit to further loosen it from the tube end. Push inward on the QD with the tool still installed before trying to pull it away from the tube and it should come off. Be careful at this stage to not exert too much force to prevent damaging the heater core or the tubes. It might take a few moves to completely free the connectors but they'll come free with a bit of gentle persistence.

Once the QD's are free use a bit of fine Emery cloth or sandpaper to clean the tube ends of any burrs or debris that might have formed over time.

I've used this method numerous times to good success----have not damaged any heater core or fitting in a long long while.

It should also be noted if you have a heater hose with that formed ridge fitting proper sized hose over it along with a worm-drive or pinch clamp work well too--I've done that for emergency repairs while out on the road.

 

I also vote for break those connectors and reconnect with regular clamp.



Fixed for life!

 

Oh, if we could indeed fix something "for life" we'd all be very happy huh?

I've used both methods and they both work well assuming they're done properly. I'm reasonably certain the Quick Disconnects are more for ease of manufacture than anything else. For years upon years we've used heater hoses held to barbed fittings secured with worm clamps and they were reliable.