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I have added to the collection a 2001 E150 XL. 4.6, 2WD, 85K on the clock. I paid $2500 for it. I am the 3rd owner. The van originally belonged to Lehigh County Corrections, has bars on all the windows, no door handles in the back, and was likely a prisoner transport vehicle. I've got a bunch of Ford stuff, a few Rangers, a Grand Marquis, Bronco, F150, but this is the first van that I've pulled the trigger on. Brought it home, and I'm currently running through the maintenance on it. Fresh filters and fluids, plugs, grease job, all that fun stuff. Just had a few questions about things that I'm not real familiar with.
1st, when I drained the coolant, the stuff that came out was not the color I was expecting. My Haynes book says it takes regular green stuff in the recommended fluids section. That definitely isn't what came out. Should I just switch it to green stuff or does this need special coolant for some reason?
2nd, for the rear diff, the Haynes book calls for 80W-90 in the 8.8, but the tag on the diff says to use 75W-140. Why the discrepancy? Also, at the bottom of the page, it says," *For Traction-Lok axles add friction modifier when lubricant is changed. ... Ford 8.8 and 9.75 inch add 4 oz."
How do I tell if I need to do this or not, and where do I find it if I do need it?
Forgive me if these are dumb questions, but I've never had any of my old junk call for additives in the diff, and they all just used regular green coolant.
Any other tips or tricks are always helpful, and as always, any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
The 75w gear oil has a lower viscosity(not as thick... flows easier) which helps reduce power losses. What is the axle code on the drivers door pillar? If it has a letter and a number like H5 the diff has a clutch based limited slip diff and friction modifier is often recommended for smoother diff operation on the street. The tag on the diff attached under one of the cover bolts will also indicate the presence of an LS diff, it would have a sequence like 3L55 to indicate 3.55 gears with limited slip.
A truck with an open diff will have 2 numbers for the axle code(35) and the axle tag will have a blank space in the gear ratio.. 3_55
The coolant was gold
Use the synthetic gear lube for better mileage
Enjoy your van
Real easy to check if you have a posi
Jack up one rear wheel with a bottle jack about one inch
Start it up and put it in gear
If it drives off the jack it's a posi
There are other ways, that one is the funnest
Junkyard should help getting door handles and cables, but replace the ends with the aluminum ones so you don't eventually get locked out due to cable failure.
What is the axle code on the drivers door pillar? If it has a letter and a number like H5 the diff has a clutch based limited slip diff and friction modifier is often recommended for smoother diff operation on the street. The tag on the diff attached under one of the cover bolts will also indicate the presence of an LS diff, it would have a sequence like 3L55 to indicate 3.55 gears with limited slip.
A truck with an open diff will have 2 numbers for the axle code(35) and the axle tag will have a blank space in the gear ratio.. 3_55
Here is the door tag. Axle code appears to be "19". So, if I read what you wrote right, that means it does not have limited slip, and therefore shouldn't need friction modifier, correct?
The coolant was gold
Use the synthetic gear lube for better mileage
Enjoy your van
Real easy to check if you have a posi
Jack up one rear wheel with a bottle jack about one inch
Start it up and put it in gear
If it drives off the jack it's a posi
There are other ways, that one is the funnest
The stuff that came out of the cooling system looks very dark. My Haynes book does have an asterisk in the cooling system servicing section that reads, "Beginning in 2001, some models are equipped with red, long life coolant. Do not mix green-colored ethylene glycol coolant and red-colored coolant because doing so will damage the cooling system. Read the warning label in the engine compartment for additional information." I guess this is why I'm a little nervous. Take a look at what drained out...
Junkyard should help getting door handles and cables, but replace the ends with the aluminum ones so you don't eventually get locked out due to cable failure.
Good idea. Especially on changing the cable ends. I wouldn't have thought to do that.
I've got to head over there anyways because the PO decided to run into something fairly good and the bumper, hood, passenger headlight and turn signal are all pretty banged in.
Anyone ever put in one of those aftermarket trans drain plugs? I feel like every time I've had to pull a pan to change a filter it ends up being a mess. At least I put down cardboard this time. Seems like it would be smarter to install one of those to drain it down before taking the pan loose.
Yes to the pan drain plug. If you have a fluid extractor, remove what you can through the dipstick tube before you drop the pan the first time. Then install the drain plug. Or keep using the extractor.
Anyone ever put in one of those aftermarket trans drain plugs? I feel like every time I've had to pull a pan to change a filter it ends up being a mess. At least I put down cardboard this time. Seems like it would be smarter to install one of those to drain it down before taking the pan loose.
I've been using these drain fittings: Quick Changers They're not cheap but they're nearly perfect for driveway DIY's especially for the transmission pan. That size in the link also fits the engine oil pan. They do require drilling a hole in the existing pan (one removed and cleaned), using a metric hex nut and JB Weld or similar adhesive to assure there will be no leaks. Keep in mind these are a one-time purchase making them seem a little less costly.
I used mine this past weekend doing the Mark K full fluid flush on a 2005 E-350 with 4R75-E transmission---zero fluid hit the ground. Link to my post about that---photos of my Quick Changer installed and in use: Mark K Full Fluid Flush
You can also find a generic cheaper fitting as low as $7 and I've used a few of those---never had one that didn't develop a leak after a few years.
Here is the door tag. Axle code appears to be "19". So, if I read what you wrote right, that means it does not have limited slip, and therefore shouldn't need friction modifier, correct?
Yes correct, your Axle 19 means you have a 3.55 gear ratio with an open differential so you do not need modifier.
Spend the money on an aluminum trans pan with a drain plug
I got a Hughes deep finned aluminum pan for mine
Those Hughes pans sure look nice, but they're pretty pricey for the likes of me. For the same reason I didn't pick up the Spicer diff cover with the drain and fill plugs in it. I did pick up a Dorman pan that came with a drain plug after reading this. Not nearly as nice as the Hughes pans, but it was like $37. Seems like an upgrade from the stock pan, anyway.
You are sure right about the cost difference and if I had seen the Dorman pan back then I would have got it instead
I keep wondering If I am going to bash it up in the mountains
Nice Bronco
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