Hey, I’m new to this so please bear with me.
I’ve had some problems which my 1966 f100

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1696343-1966-f100-stalling-spluttering-backfires.html
It’s running pretty well now.

A member suggested I post my questions in here regarding replacing my manifold to take it back to stock. The video shows my current set up.

Could anyone suggest which:
Manifold
Carburetor, can I retain the this Carburetor which has just been rebuilt? It’s stamped “LIST-9965-1 1639”

Is it a big job replacing the manifold?

I’m pretty competent, I’ve owned and worked on plenty of 60’s European cars but this is my first truck.

Thanks
Gary

 

As a start lets make that link clickable
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...backfires.html

I also dont see what the issues is if it is a car or truck / American or European or what ever.
A motor is a motor and a car / truck is a car / truck they all work the same way and get fixed the same way.
Now each may have "known issues" that make it a little harder to fix or we can point you to that known issue to save you a lot of leg work.

Because you posted in here we will need to go back to see what has been done to try and get the truck to run better.
Hold on..........

I am back
Can you post up a picture of the carb & intake as it sounds like you have after market setup but if it ran good before it should run good again with what you have.
Do you still have the electric fuel pump and the pump on the motor hooked up and pushing fuel to the motor?
And as said why the regulator? Could it be for that electric pump? Me I would remove the electric pump & regulator and use just the motor pump.
But if it was running before maybe leave it till you get it running right again.

You posted it would shut down when the clutch was pushed in and maybe something electrical a cause?
You cleaned up the solenoid ground lets do the others.
Battery to motor, motor to frame & motor to cab / fire wall.
If they are missing add them as it cannot hurt.
If the IGN system does not have a complete path it could be when the clutch is in the path breaks.

If you find after the grounds have been fixed the issues is still happening then we need to make sure it is a spark issue or not.
Lets see what the grounds do before moving on.
Dave ----

 

Hey, the issue seems to have been resolved. She’s running like a dream.
After taking her out and repeatedly experiencing the issue it was like I turning it off with the key, no spluttering just a clean shut off so cleaned al the grounds again.
The only other adjustment was to the idle, a local truck guy said it was idling to fast.
She’s know running beautifully.
Thanks for the advice Dave.
Gary

 

Good to hear it is running like it should.
Now put some miles on it and enjoy
Dave ----

 

I have a 86 f150 2 door short bed 4x4 w/ 300 i6 . I am trying to build. The truck only had 52000 miles on it. But ( there is always but) it sat in a cow pasture for about 10 years before i came along. Anyway I cant seem to find parts for it. I need a intake manifold and exhaust manifold. . LIKe to have a header and 2 barrel intake. I am just not looking in right place? One more thing can I swap the electric distributor for vacuum. thanks

 

I do not recommend a header for the street. EFI cast dual exhausts last longer and work nearly as well.

The only 2V intake is an Aussispeed. It is probably going to cost you about $500 to acquire. Other alternatives are a 2V adapter on a Clifford or Offy C intake, or a 2V adapter on the stock 1V intake (less effective).

 

Why you need a intake as I dont think I have ever heard of one going bad or just for the v2 carb?
In that case as FTF said for intake manifolds. I would not even bother with the stock log manifold and v2 adapter you would be better off with the factory log & carb.

There is nothing wrong with running the EFI cast EXH manifolds and Y pipe heck even the full system less cat if you dont have to for smog checks.

I run the EFI EXH manifolds and 94 Y pipe on back to tail pipe less cat. I can go into any parts store for replacement exh parts.
I am running a Thrust welded muffler that gives a little better sound.

Now if running where it is cold you will should heat the intake floor, factory or aftermarket like the factory did on the log manifold.
I am heating mine as I use the truck in the winter, 20*f a few mornings, with no issues.

The other thing is the choke. My truck, 81 F100 and factory log intake & carb, uses a hot air asst. and uses hot air from the factory log exh manifold to heat the choke to help it open. The EFI manifolds have no way to make this happen but not a big deal.

I took copper tubing and wrapped it around the manifold to heat it. The tubing hooks to the carb like the factory did and cant see it unless you really look for it.
I did find when it was 20*f out the choke did not pull off as the hot air was not getting hot enough. I took header wrap and covered the tubing around the manifold so the heat would stay in and that was the trick and works great.

On the dist. yes you can run factory, pre feed back 82 or older DSII system and harness as it is a plug in.
Others go with a HEI dist. off ebay just need to watch as some are junk out of the box so dont go cheapest.

You should also have a feed back carb and some have been able to run it with just the dist. change with out issues and others not, so may want to go pre feed back 82 carb off ebay too.
Dave ----