It looks like this alternator has only one connector and the correct pulley for your truck.




I agree. The ground cable is definitely not supposed to be there.

 

Some other things to consider, what cause the ALT 2 fail? Are you running extra loads, more than a stock truck? If yes, the 2G ALT will fail again. The 2G is a weak and limedit ALT Design.
If you have to do all the extra wiring to install this one... it might be time to thing about a 3G ALT upgrade.

In my part of the world you can get a used 3G ALT at the junk yard for $25. Something to think about.

Good luck and thank you for posting your progress and results.
Jim

 

So the battery is not charging when it's running. The alternator I bought came with the three extra wires. The Haynes manual shows my truck is supposed to have those wires connect to the harness but I don't have anything that connects to that. Also this truck had the computer ripped out and is kind of *******ized. I'll attach more photos of the wires coming off the battery to the solenoid and such.

 

That looks like a 2G ALT and I think it should be used with a regulator like the 1G ALT where is the regulator?
Only the 3G has the regulator built in.
Dave ----

 

That which has been seen cannot be unseen! Oh the humanity! That red bolt-on "emergency" battery terminal? Those are handy to keep one in your glove box for true emergency use. For example, you've been invited to go deep sea fishing and don't have any appropriate sinker weights. But for providing a reliable electrical connection? Not so much. Plan on replacing that entire cable before it leaves you stranded.

You'll want a proper battery holddown clamp, too.

But in the meantime, that horrible nasty vomit-inducing retched terminal (notice a theme?) is not the likely culprit for the no-charge condition. That wrong pulley isn't helping, as it is probably slipping like crazy. The alternator will be spinning, but much too slowly under load.

The $64,000 Question:

Did the old alternator charge adequately? A little history of your ownership, please. Is this truck new to you and the charging system has never worked in this short time? Or had it been working adequately, even with the cobbled wiring, but then suddenly quit?

If the old alternator had been working, and you still have it, take it to a local auto parts store and ask to match it up. Have them test the old one to confirm it had failed. Forget trying to order online, as that old alternator may not have been original to your truck. But if it had been working, and is confirmed bad, a good parts guy should be able to get you a direct replacement.

I'd suggest skipping AutoZone or other discount chains. Any time I've darkened their doorstep, it's always some new kid behind the counter. They can look up parts by make and model, but don't have the experience to untangle a mystery. I'm much more partial to places like NAPA or Carquest, where you'll see the same knowledgeable guys for years.

 

@kr98664 The old alternator was not charging adequately. I got the truck about a year ago and everything you see is how I got it. I've been slowly making my way to get it in running shape, but use it mostly for a farm truck. I still have the old alternator. I'm planning on taking the old alternator to get tested tomorrow.

 

Very likely the old one experienced a not-uncommon meltdown and the previous owner tossed out the melted wires. Leaving it with no way to charge the battery.
The missing wires are in part at least exactly what you received with the new alternator. All manufacturers do, and maybe are required to, include a replacement plug with the two large Black wires coming out of it to fix the problem of old, corroded and loose connections at the business end of the alternator.

The original had, and the new one is supposed to connect to, wires long enough to almost reach the starter relay/solenoid. Starting a few inches away from there, the two wires are spliced into one fusible link wire that then connects to the battery side of the starter relay. That's how the alternator charges the battery.
So you have half the wire, and need the rest as the old one likely melted away. I don't see remnants of it there in any of your pictures, so likely it got tossed before the truck was sold.

There is a really good picture of this section of wire in one of the other forums from just this past week or so. I'll see if i can find it, but believe it was in the '87-'96 section and was discussing changing from a 2G to a 3G to avoid the problems in the future.
I'll see if I can find it.

In the meantime, what everyone is basically trying to say is that without that additional wire connected to the two or three wires in that larger plug, you will NEVER be able to charge the battery.
The two large Black wires are where the current exits the alternator. The three smaller wires you have in that other plug are just sensing (Yellow w/white), energizing and indicator lamp (Green w/red) and whatever the other one does.

Hey Dave. No, the 2G was Ford's first entry into the internally regulated (or more accurately sometimes "integrated regulator") alternator lineup. So just like a 3G and later rendition, no external regulator was used.
The 1G had two sizes (like the 3G does) however, so maybe you were thinking in terms of the standard small-case 1G like most of us had on our trucks, and the large-case 1G (70a to 105a ratings) which was sometimes available as an option.
The odd-shaped connector the OP has IS the regulator connector. Goes right into the side of the alternator. On some models you can see the entire regulator bolted to the backside of the alternator case, while others have it completely internal with just the connector end showing.

paul

 

here is the discussion in the other forum showing a couple of good pics of your "two" connectors you should have:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-system.html

Paul

 

Can you follow a wiring diagram? Here's the one for your truck with the proper alternator you just bought.

 

@1TonBasecamp I looked at the pics from the other post.is this the fuseable wire you're referring to that I circled?

 

So what I'm gathering is with the new alternator I need to splice the two black wires with a fuseable link to the starter solenoid?

 

This post has photos of the 2G ALT harness.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-302-efi.html

 

@JimsRebel looking at that post it looks like the wires tied off together on my truck in this pic go to the alternator. If so, I guess I need either a replacement wiring harness or a new plug if the old alternator is still good.

 

I think you are correct with that thought. You may have to get a harness.

In post 10 I have pictures of new recently spliced wires to the new 2G ALT.

Here is a old picture from a couple of years back, I'll try and show the "in-line fuses"







If it would be any help with more pictures from my set up let me know.

 

@Max Capacity are the black rubber pieces the fuse or is it just the one orange/red plastic piece?

Update. Had the old alternator tested at AutoZone (NAPA in my town doesnt test). Alternator is good. I bought a new plug for the missing one, a fuse cable and some wire to reconnect the capped off wires to the alternator. Wish me luck!