So getting ready to do a “ tuneup “ on the new to me 94 150 5.0 with a 160k on the odometer. Planning on plugs plug wires, oil, transmission fluid, rear gears. So if something I’m missing or you have brand to avoid or is a must for example. Thinking about E3 spark plugs but do they work. What about senthtic fluid in rear end. Thank you in advance

 

Scrap the E3 idea.... waste of $ i my 1997 4.6 I run Bosch +4's and they seem to run the best (since I ordered it new). Syn fluids are ok, just keep to the brand to avoid non-compatibility mix issues.

 

Thank you for your reply

 

So after doing a quick search the top cover on the air filter box is going to cost me around $70 to replace but again it was quick look up. Not a huge fan of cold air intake but not against them. So found a cheap system for 128 included the box filter and hose. I still can look for cheaper but considering the cold air. Anybody have thoughts if the OEM was in good shape I would just keep it. Truck is my in town grocery getter.

 

Keep the factory cold air intake. It is a relatively good design that is not a bottleneck on a stock or mild build engine. Source a used factory cover and be done with it.

 

It’s a valid point but unless I. Just can’t do a good search it’s $90 for a used one or $90 plus $18 in shipping for new. I can get cold air from Jegs 128. I can go to junkyard but they are closed by time I get off and my Saturdays have been full. I will hold off for now thank you

 

So I ran codes and said pip low voltage, I read that meant cam sensor was going out. It had some of the symptoms as well. So today I decided to swap the distributor plugs and plug wires, most the plugs looked ok the number one plug wire was sliced rotor and cap looked newish. The distributor appeared to be original. The previous owner had bosh double irradem plugs in they were different length than all of the plugs they brought up that belonged on the 5.0. I went with the motorcraft plugs I was nervous they might be to long and damage the top of the piston. Took me awhile to get it to run but finally started after I twisted the cap counter clockwise. But had several stalls with difficult starts stayed running long enough finally that I timed by ear. Now I’m hard of hearing and only timed an engine once that I remember and that was in high school 30 years ago. I tried to use timing light but couldn’t find the timing marks. Anyway it runs around the block no problem. I will take down highway tomorrow ( the daughter drove the block. I decided I needed a beer the first time it didn’t start plus the grill was warming up for the burgers. Once she got back she turned off then realized that window was down so she restarted it ( yes just turning key would have worked) but truck struggled to start again but it did other than 1200 idle speed seems better smoother than before but looking for thoughts on how to time better and lower idle speed still rich

 

Unplug the SPOUT plug then use a timing light to set the base timing to factory setting of 10* BTDC. Problem solved.

 

Thank you, I had to look that up had never heard of it. Wouldn’t have ever known to look for it or where to look. I haven’t really had time or money the last 20 years to play with trucks. Last time I did have the time or money everything I played with was late 60’s to late 70’s. I have a lot to learn

 

Just to keep everything handy for you....

1992 and later SPOUT location:
Attachment 277411
courtesy of Subford

~1989 and later 7.5L trucks started to use the remote mount Ignition Control Module so the SPOUT may be on the driver side inner fender as well. Small block trucks used the distributor mounted ICM/SPOUT near the distributor until 1991.

More info for setting the timing: Setting the timing