Massive Oil Leak
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Joined: May 2022
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From: Santa Fe NM
Massive Oil Leak
My boy parked his 1989 F250 7.3d with a garrett a/r turbo because it had a massive oil leak and lots of oil in the exahust. Actually, dripping from the exhaust pipe. The turbo is used and was installed by the previous owner, my son's friend {with friends like this.....). I got tired of looking at it so I'm starting to work on it. It starts great and runs very well if you don't look out the window and see all the smoke. A strong smell of oil is also in the cab while driving. The majority of the oil seems to be coming up high on or near the turbo. Anybody have some best guesses or where I should start to diagnosis the issue?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
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Sounds like you got two separate leaks going on. What's coming out the exhaust is leaking internally thru one (or both of) the seals around the turbo shaft. This will obviously call for a turbo rebuild, but it being a Garrett you may be able to find just a cartridge and not have to replace the snails which are technically non-wear items.
The leak on/over the turbo, that's the one you can smell cause oil is burning off the hot side of the turbo, that's probably a failed pressure line - could be just a loose fitting where it enters the turbo, or it could be the line got hot cause it was laying on the exhaust housing and so it partially melted.
The leak on/over the turbo, that's the one you can smell cause oil is burning off the hot side of the turbo, that's probably a failed pressure line - could be just a loose fitting where it enters the turbo, or it could be the line got hot cause it was laying on the exhaust housing and so it partially melted.
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New User
Joined: May 2022
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From: Santa Fe NM
Sounds like you got two separate leaks going on. What's coming out the exhaust is leaking internally thru one (or both of) the seals around the turbo shaft. This will obviously call for a turbo rebuild, but it being a Garrett you may be able to find just a cartridge and not have to replace the snails which are technically non-wear items.
The leak on/over the turbo, that's the one you can smell cause oil is burning off the hot side of the turbo, that's probably a failed pressure line - could be just a loose fitting where it enters the turbo, or it could be the line got hot cause it was laying on the exhaust housing and so it partially melted.
The leak on/over the turbo, that's the one you can smell cause oil is burning off the hot side of the turbo, that's probably a failed pressure line - could be just a loose fitting where it enters the turbo, or it could be the line got hot cause it was laying on the exhaust housing and so it partially melted.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
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Internal leak is pretty typical for a high-miles worn out turbo. The cold side will be easiest to check as you can just disconnect the big snail that lives on top of the intake housing and take a look inside the turbo that way. Tho honest it don't matter if it's cold or hot side leaking or both, turbos gonna have to come off and apart.
The oil feed line, that can be replaced with a hard steel line if you prefer, that's how mine is set up actually, and I'm using the top oil port of the engine, where the oil pressure sender typically goes. You'll need some flared fittings and adapters to do it that way, but a place like AutoZone should have everything you need hanging on the rack in the back of the store. 1/4 steel brake line is what I used, the green coated one - didn't wanna chance the Ni-Copp work hardening and cracking from vibrations. Good idea to put a clamp on the line halfway between the engine block and the turbo, for the same reason.
The oil feed line, that can be replaced with a hard steel line if you prefer, that's how mine is set up actually, and I'm using the top oil port of the engine, where the oil pressure sender typically goes. You'll need some flared fittings and adapters to do it that way, but a place like AutoZone should have everything you need hanging on the rack in the back of the store. 1/4 steel brake line is what I used, the green coated one - didn't wanna chance the Ni-Copp work hardening and cracking from vibrations. Good idea to put a clamp on the line halfway between the engine block and the turbo, for the same reason.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
since it is an 89, the turbo kit is aftermarket.
so first step is determining what kit is on it to see what parts are where so you can determine what is needed.
as an example, if it is a banks kit the oil into the turbo comes rite off the back of the block where the stock oil pressure sending unit mounts, and outlet oil from turbo is fed into the valley through a steel pipe into the CDR drain.
so first step is determining what kit is on it to see what parts are where so you can determine what is needed.
as an example, if it is a banks kit the oil into the turbo comes rite off the back of the block where the stock oil pressure sending unit mounts, and outlet oil from turbo is fed into the valley through a steel pipe into the CDR drain.
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