shock upgrade
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 2,407
From: Ridgway, CO
I was about to make a post raving about the new shocks, massive improvement over my 23k mile stockers. I took it down 10 miles of pot holed washboard gravel yesterday. It was a completely different truck. Washboard and small bumps are almost gone. Bigger hits much better controlled without the crash of the stock shocks. The rear end didn't dance around and the steering didn't flinch even on good sized one wheel holes. Rides and drives better than new.
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 95
Likes: 36
The shocks are easy unless you have a B&W hitch installed. I first had to remove the crossmember and modify it so the pass side rear shock can slide off the stud. The rest was gravy, I did mine yesterday along with a 5100 steering stabilizer. I didn't lift the truck or remove the wheels.
I was about to make a post raving about the new shocks, massive improvement over my 23k mile stockers. I took it down 10 miles of pot holed washboard gravel yesterday. It was a completely different truck. Washboard and small bumps are almost gone. Bigger hits much better controlled without the crash of the stock shocks. The rear end didn't dance around and the steering didn't flinch even on good sized one wheel holes. Rides and drives better than new.
I was about to make a post raving about the new shocks, massive improvement over my 23k mile stockers. I took it down 10 miles of pot holed washboard gravel yesterday. It was a completely different truck. Washboard and small bumps are almost gone. Bigger hits much better controlled without the crash of the stock shocks. The rear end didn't dance around and the steering didn't flinch even on good sized one wheel holes. Rides and drives better than new.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 2,407
From: Ridgway, CO
If you don't have the hitch issue, you shouldn't need to worry about the exhaust, at least on my gas truck.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 56
Likes: 18
From: Idaho
I don’t see a 5100 on Bilstein’s site for a stock height front end for a ‘22 F250/350. What part numbers did you use and did you find a good deal? I’ve put 5100’s on 2 other trucks and plan to put them on my ‘22 F250 when it arrives.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 1,196
From: Southeast MO
24-274951 for front
These will fit stock trucks. I have them also. I got mine from Suspension Connection.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 2,407
From: Ridgway, CO
I am running the "2 inch lifted" 5100's on my stock truck. Mine is gas with snow plow springs so it sits a touch higher. The 5100's said to be for lifted/leveled trucks are about 1/4" longer than the stock shocks. This has been discussed a ton on the forum. Lots of guys running these without issue on stock trucks.
I ordered from shock surplus. Best price I could find.
I ordered from shock surplus. Best price I could find.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 132
Likes: 37
I just did my 5100 install last week replacing the rancho's with 37K on them. The fronts were topping out due to the spacers the previous owner added so I used the 2" - 3" lift shocks. To say the difference is night and day is an understatement, the ride is smooth and handles beautifully. I did a dual stabilizer using 5100's too since the original was toast.
The install is easy no need to jack up or remove tires, on the front just turn the wheel to lock to provide additional space in the wheel well, rear just crawl under and wear eye protection.
In full disclosure I used a Milwaukee 3/8" right angle 12v impact so other than the top bolts on the front shocks, everything came off and went on with ease.
The install is easy no need to jack up or remove tires, on the front just turn the wheel to lock to provide additional space in the wheel well, rear just crawl under and wear eye protection.
In full disclosure I used a Milwaukee 3/8" right angle 12v impact so other than the top bolts on the front shocks, everything came off and went on with ease.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 2,407
From: Ridgway, CO
I wanted to make sure I could slide the factory shock off the stud without having to remove this part again. I cut the whole bottom out and the round on both sides so the factory shock would clear. The backing plate need to be cut back to match that side. The original length is on the other side still. There is a notch on the bottom side as well to allow the stock shock to slide out. It rides right on the frame plate as it comes out. I had some 1.5" square tube so I cut a section to sleeve the bolt since the 150 lb/ft spec would probably crush the tube with the section cut out. So at worst you have to get that one bolt out on the end and slide the sleeve out of the way. Plenty of room to change shocks. Since there isn't a big shock body on the top end of the Bilsteins they can be changed without removing the big bolt and spacer. I had some black paint to I painted my raw parts so they don't just rust out.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 8,640
Likes: 2,434
The only reasons I can think of would be price and warranty on the 5100. The higher price of the FOX gets you aluminum bodies and they can be rebuilt. Unless you intend on rebuilding them yourself, because of cost, being rebuildable is not a real value adder IMO. FOX provides a little more usable travel. Both would be an improvement over stock.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 2,407
From: Ridgway, CO
The Fox are more expensive and you will have to rebuild them every couple of years to maintain performance. The Bilsteins are lifetime and they do last a good long time. Both are monotube designs so the work much better than stock shocks. The Fox can also be easily re-valved for your needs, they are probably the better of the two but more expensive to buy and maintain too.
