Hi Folks,

I know 302's and auto trannies have been fitted into these trucks a thousand times over, and there's no specific rule book for doing so, but I wanted to ask some questions before I start cutting stuff.

I'm installing a 5.0 V8 and AODE-W from a 1996 F150 using the crossmember kit below:

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-kit-Ford-V-8/

The engine fits in the bay OK and there's enough room for it obviously, but I'm trying to figure out how to proceed and thought you guys might have some advice before I start cutting anything further.

I currently have the engine and trans sitting 1" right of center (towards the passenger side). My shorty header is still touching the Toyota power steering box, and the transmission bellhousing is just touching the floor. I guess the easiest thing to do is to move everything another inch to the right. This means I'll have to cut the floor a little bit, and presumably fabricate and install a little higher tunnel cover? It also means the battery will have to move also...to under the cab on a frame mount?

I assume that you guys with the Mustang II front ends have the engine and trans sitting lower in the chassis?

Just looking for advice from those that have been there and done that. I'm not 100% opposed to going with a different steering set-up, or a different crossmember kit, or even different headers. If moving the whole works another inch over and cutting the floor is it, then I guess that's what I'll do, but thought I'd run it by the experts first.

Oh, and how exactly do you guys measure that the engine/trans is parallel with the frame rails? And the ideal angle as I understand it is about 4 degrees down, front to back?

 

Looking at this picture, I see the first thing you need to do is move your radiator support forward to the 6 cylinder position, which is the two holes directly in front of the support on the crossmember. It will free up a ton of space in front of the engine, allow for more engine adjustment and increase your fan space. You may be able to move the engine forward another inch or two and gain the critical clearance you need between floor, frame and steering box.
Since you're running a carb, just make sure your carb pad on the intake is level with the truck sitting at its final ride height and you'll have the correct tilt. Ensuring the drivetrain is parallel in the frame is just a matter of measuring the side to side distance from the crankshaft center (or some other static point, like the edge of a pulley, etc) and the output shaft of the trans, adjusting the measurement for the offset. (example, frame width 34"/2=17 on center, +/- 1" offset =16/18, etc)

 

Hey thanks for the reply 52 Merc!

I'm glad I asked the question. I was aware of the 6 cylinder position for the rad support, but I had it my head that I wanted to keep the engine as far back as possible. I was trying to leave lots of room for the fan in case I could run the stock clutched unit, but maybe the lesser of all evils is to pull the engine ahead an inch or two as you say. I'll play around with it a bit today and see if I can get it to fit in there better.

 

Just take your time. Measure three times- cut once.

 

I did mine without the cab on the truck, but as Wayne said, you'll want that extra space by moving the radiator to the 6 cylinder position. I also found that block hugger headers gave me the essential room needed in order to run the power steering I probably didn't need. There's plenty of room under the cab to get your transmission angle right, and then you'll be able to run a 1 piece drive shaft. You will have to clearance the original transmission brace though, even though it pained me to cut mine. Tons of pics in my build thread in my signature if you want to see how I did mine. 302 roller cam with an AOD.

Cheers,

 

Thanks for the replies guys! I tried it again yesterday with the engine crossmember flipped around the opposite way, and I think that is how it will have to go in order to fit behind the axle beam (but in front of the inner tie rod ). I am also going to have to move it 2" to the right of center. There's no way it's fitting unless I do that. I found some old threads on here, and found several other guys that installed their 302 1.75" or 2.0" to the right, so I guess this is nothing new. It means I'll have to relocate the battery, but that's pretty easy.

 

What he said !

 

Hey Rembrant,
We put a 351W with an AOD in our 1950 F1. You can run an electric fan up front with the shorty waterpump - gives you a lot of space
to avoid tunneling your cab for the transmission. We used an 18 inch fan from a Tbird. We did put the battery behind the seat - It's ok there but
It's not much fun jumping it or changing it out (ask my son). Our 351W is an inch & some over toward the passenger side. Getting the steering column in
was a work of art.

Nova Scotia is beautiful.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD).

 

Hey thanks Ben,

Nova Scotia is great. I was born and raised here, so it's home. Like anywhere else though, people are crowding in...with the pandemic and everybody working remotely, a lot of people have moved out here from the bigger urban areas. Same story all over I'd imagine.

I'm going to take another stab at placing the engine this weekend. I think I thought that I was going to get to have my cake and eat it too, or whatever that saying is. I thought that with enough fussing I'd be able to place the engine just right, and still get to run the stock fan and battery in the stock location. Not so. I had compounding issues. The way I placed the crossmember originally, I had to shorten one end of it. Now I have to flip it around, and lengthen the end that I shortened...lol. Oh well. The engine needs to go more to the right and a bit more forward, and that's OK. I think if I do all that it will fit fine, and the crossmember should clear the axle beam.

I'll report back with more news on Saturday after some welding and beers...thanks again!

 

As of late last night, I finally got this thing in a good spot, and there's now lots of room for the Toyota steering box. Engine and trans are about 1 9/16" right of center, and pulled ahead another 1/2-3/4 inch. I think this will be OK.



So my next question(s) are...

I can set my engine/trans angle no problem, but the truck is currently not at it's final resting / ride height. How do you go about setting all of these angles (Engine and trans, and rear diff) when the truck is sitting "high" without all the weight it is supposed to have in the front, etc? The truck currently rides on stock suspension, but it is my intention to lower it very slightly...maybe 2"-3" or so, and the rear of the truck will likely be a little higher than the front. Any advice from the experts?

I have an Explorer 8.8 rear diff to go in this thing, and I'll have to set the angles of the leaf spring perches on it as well. Just curious what the standard procedure is for setting all these angles when technically not having the final/finished ride height set.

And, I have a new Champion 3-core radiator to go in. What is the preference for electric fans? I assume that if I have enough room I'd want in a pull fan mounted on the engine side of the rad? I have seen these trucks with a push fan mounted on the front of the radiator. Does it matter either way? Oh...and how are they controlled? Do they run on engine temperature or do the fan kits come with their own thermo-switch?

 

The biggest factor for the engine - diff angles is their relation to each other . I believe the agreed optimum is 4 degrees up on the diff and 4 down on the engine preferably set at ride height leaving your carb at level . Pull on the fans when possible and the fans will need their own engine temp switch .

 

Every auxiliary fan, whether push or pull, comes with its own wired thermostat control. Take a look at Spal fans on the internet and you wil see exactly what you need.
Regards, Mark

 

If you’re staying with leaf springs in the front, Posie’s will get you the 2” +/- drop you’re seeking, plus give a better ride (in my case) and less weight. They bolt in (no mods required). They also make them for the back, but I went with a 4 link which also drops the rear. If you go this route on the front, prior to installation, check the U-bolts to insure the threads go high enough (there are only two leafs on Posie). Also check the cotter pin holes in the shackle pins. I had two that were too close to the end (not engaging the nuts).

 

I went to move the radiator support forward the other night and realized that it appears the forward 6cyl position on the crossmember is higher? The crossmember is not flat...it looks like the 6 cyl position is raised up between 1/4" and 3/8"? If this is correct, how do I adjust for that?

I removed the upper horizontal tie-bar from the radiator support as you can see in the pics above. I'm going to bolt it back in place today and move the support forward, but curious how to deal with the different height?

Any advice from the experts?

 

The slight difference in height is already accounted for from the factory. No other compensation is necessary. The holes in the inner fenders are staggered the same amount as the frame is raised, so nothing changes in fitment anywhere else.