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New DIYer/mechanic here with a 94 F150 XLT 5.8 V8. I'm ready to replace the EGR, if needed. The only problem is, that I get NO read on volt meter when I test the EGR valve position sensor and the connector that connects to it. I followed this video:
-Is the lack of volt reading as simple as changing a fuse somewhere? I can't seem to find anywhere that tells me where to find the fuse for the egr...
-I haven't tested the EGR, because I didn't want to invest in the vacuum hand pump if it's an electrical problem. Plus, It looks like the original EGR valve and I'd be fine just getting a new one.
-I have a vacuum line gauge, but it is still in the package--don't feel like it matters, if I'm not getting a volt read...
-I also do not want to do an egr delete because I want the engine light off
So no VREF (~+5VDC) when you measure on the pins of the EGR connector?
If you were missing VREF there would be a lot more sensors triggering codes. You would also be getting more EGR codes for low output as well as EGR opening not detected (Code 332).
Is this a new problem or is this a new to you truck?
it is a new truck to me. my first project truck.
I have not used an adjustable volt meter before. Just a standard 110/220 volt meter.
I am getting code 332.
I'm also getting codes 311(thermactor), 129(IAC), 536 (Brake pedal was pressed during KOER selt text), 512 (disconnected battery--I assume this one will clear)
The VREF signal and everything else on these trucks is DC. You need a better meter. I bet someone has removed the vacuum line from the EGR valve which can cause Code 332.
Given the codes you listed I assume you ran the KOEO tests and Stored Code display as well as the Key On Engine Running tests?