i have an 87 bii,eb,4x4,2.9l,automatic. it hasnt been running right. i had a mechanic look at it. he said he pulled the codes from the computer. it shows code 11 without it running and codes 33, 25 with it running. so far he has put on a new egr valve, egr pressure sensor, and egr vacuum solenoid. it has cost me a bunch and it still isnt right. any help is appreciated. i need this vehicle as soon as possible. it is my daily driver. thanks!

 

Please explain? What are the symptoms? KOEO code 11 indicates the test passed. KOER code 25 is a knock sensor problem. Check to see if it is hooked up. The code 33 indicates the EGR isn't opening. Check to make sure there is vacuum available to the EGR valve. May be as simple as a broken, disconnected or improperly routed vacuum line.

 

while driving, with the gas pedal pushed anywhere between idle and full throttle, it stutters and tries to die. the 2 vacuum lines (between egr solenoid and egr) (between egr solenoid and port in plenum) are new. the vacuum line from egr to egr pressure sensor is also new. recently put in a rebuilt transmission. mechanic said it shouldnt have anything to do with this problem. this issue didnt start until there was around 700 miles on this trans.

 

well i spoke 2 a mechanic in the family.he is very experienced with b2s. he has a brother who lives 1/4 mile from his garage that owns 2 b2s(87 and 88) and bought them new. i told him what mine is doing. then was telling him about the egr code. he stopped me mid-sentence and said the egr has nothing to do with it. he said to remove the "spout" connector and drive it. now it doesnt die at mid throttle. of course im not gonna drive it like this. he says it needs a distributor. anyone ever heard of this?

 

Sounds like he has been there before. You still might want to look around, both up top and bottom for any hoses that are loose or off, and any wiring that is not connected or pinched. It may just be coincidence, but it could have been something from when the transmission was rebuilt. The knock sensor is underneath on the driver's side of the engine block. Make sure it is hooked up.

 

ok, changed dist. cap and button. they looked really bad. but it didnt help. found the knock sensor and it wasnt plugged in (thanks slc10844) that didnt make it run any better tho. tried it out tonight. ran ok until it got up to normal temp (around 185). i hold the throttle steady and it runs bad and acts like its out of gas for 30-45 seconds then takes off like a rocket for about 15 seconds. the process will repeat as long as i hold steady throttle. if i hold it wide open, it runs great with no stuttering. cleared codes and checked again., KOEO 11, stored codes 11, KOER 33. got rid of that pesky koer code 25. thanks again slc10844. new egr valve, egr solenoid, and egr pressure sensor. any ideas? thank you for the help!

 

There is a TFI module on the side of the distributor that controls spark and timing. If your friend replaced the distributor the module is usually included. That may be your problem. Check with him a see if that was included in the distributor he replaced. Gets a little hard trying to diagnose something without being there, but it sounds like you could have a fuel delivery problem. You would need to check fuel pressure to see if it is within spec. The fuel pressure regulators are prone to failure on the 2.9. Take the vacuum hose off of the regulator and check for gas in the hose. If there is the regulator is bad. Could be a clogged fuel filter or water in the gas. You might want to replace the fuel filter and see what drains out of it.

 

we didnt replace distributor yet. trying to get it figured out before i continue throwing $100 dollar bills at it. if i replace dist. or ECM, they are $100 each. the regulator isnt losing gas through the vacuum hose. and it has been replaced recently. how do i check fuel pressure? thanks

 

You need a gauge to check the fuel pressure. The gauge taps into a valve on the fuel rail near the fuel pressure regulator. Most auto parts stores carry them. Some stores may rent them. Not worth buying if you don't have to. The TFI is serviced separate. No need to replace the whole distributor.

 

Check the TPS

 

how do i test the TPS? i tried looking at the tech stuff at the top of the forum. when i clicked tps testing it said something about AOL lifestream or something.

 

This is a "cut & paste" from another thread. Searched-Throttle Position Sensor Testing

Use a volt meter, and probe the TPS wire (the center one) and probe the negative to the black wire (signal return). Leave the harness plugged in, and turn the key on, but do not start the engine. With the throttle closed, it should be ~.9V and wide open throttle should be ~4.8V. This will show you what the computer sees from the sensor. In between closed and full throttle, the voltage should gradually progress upward, and not jump around. If you don't have the correct voltage there, check the orange wire for a constant 5V (key on). If you do check resistance, (tps unplugged) you only need to probe between the tps signal wire and the signal return (black wire). Resistance at closed throttle should be 3-4K Ohms, and 350 Ohms at wide open.

 

i checked the TPS. it is good. took off the plenum and cleaned it. its extremely clean now. took 4 hours of soak time, 4 cans brake cleaner, 2 cans starting fluid, and a whole lot of wire brushing. it looks like i picked up a new 1. the port in the plenum for the egr was completely stopped up. i was hoping this was the problem but its still doing the same stuff and telling me the EVP sensor is bad. (code 35). gonna pick up another 1 tonight when it comes in at AZ. someone told me if you can blow air through the sensor that means it is bad. is this correct? thanks for all your help!

 

I don't think trying to blow air through it is a good idea. Your liable to damage the sensor especially if you use shop air.

 

i didnt use shop air. i did it the old fashioned way. wipe it off with a rag and pretend its a balloon.lol i could barely blow thru it. took it back and got another 1. couldnt blow thru the new 1. as of now i put on new dist. cap, rotor button, plugs, wires, EGR valve, EGR sensor, EGR solenoid, fuel pump, and fuel filter. also all new vac. hoses. (if i could see it, i replaced it.) checked TPS and IAC. the only codes that i get now is 11 and 74 and thats just because im too lazy to go push the brake while i am pulling codes. it doesnt stutter as often now. only at 65 or faster. if i give it more throttle, it runs fine. it only stutters if i try to run it at steady throttle. any ideas?