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I believe the plug you are describing is C610. I have C610 marked in the diagram below with red circles. While the colors of the wires are hard to read, it is safe to say you have 3 little wires and one large yellow wire. The 3 little wires went to the original ammeter gauge in the dash and the key-on power for the original alternator system. You do not need these, just leave them in the plug. The important one you are missing is the large yellow wire. It feeds power to the whole truck.
I have shown in green what you need to do. You need to connect the large yellow wire to the large lug on the starter relay. That separate red wire you said you have; Does it have a funny rubber thing in the wire? If it does, that is the original fusible link. If that link is good, I would hook the large ring end on the red wire to the battery + on the starter relay, and then hook the other end of this large red wire to the yellow wire as represented by the green line in the diagram below. You can cut the yellow wire completely if you want, and then use a large yellow butt splice to connect it to the starter relay red wire. This should get some stuff working.
I think all he needs to do is put a fuse link on that heavy yellow wire and put it on the starter solenoid on the side the battery is screwed to and should then have power in side.
That red wire with stripe and the 90° push on connector I believe goes to the small S lug on the solenoid.
The 1 wire ALT goes to the solenoid with the battery cable & fuse link.
I hope to find my old wiring when I get home to see if I can make out that yellow wire how it runs from the factory.
Dave ----
Hey Franklin
Here's the deal so far.
I took a jumper and connected the yellow wire to the battery side of the solenoid. I connected the other red wire with the solenoid lug connector to the S terminal of the solenoid. I GOT POWER,
EVERYTHING WORKS., ENGINE CRANKS BUT NO SPARK.
THERE ARE (2) fused link wires COMING THROUGH THE HARNESS (1) ORANGE and (1) GREEN and BOTH ARE CONNECTED TO THE YELLOW WIRE AND CONTINUE THROUGH THE HARNESS TOWARD THE FIRE WALL,??
ANY IDEAS.
We will call it good over there where you connected the yellow wire. What you need to do now is go over to the ignition coil, take your meter or testlight and probe the red/lightgreen wire at the coil. When you turn the key to run you should have power there. Put your negative lead on a good ground or the neg of the battery for these tests.
If you have power at the coil with the key in run, take your tester and probe the white/lightblue dot wire at the ignition box on the fender. This wire goes into the plug and then turns into a red wire going into the module. See if you have power there with the key in run.
Hey FranklinPower to the blue / white and red at the box. NO power at the coil. Is there supposed to be a wire that connects to the IGN lug on the Solenoid
I see you are working on a 460 truck. If you have electric fuel pumps in the tanks (most do) then yes, there is a wire that hooks to the IGN terminal of the solenoid. It's purpose is to power the electric fuel pumps while cranking. Nothing to do with your no spark problem though.
You can take a scrap piece of wire and hook it to the red/lightgreen of the coil and then straight to the battery, and see if you get spark as a test. Your ignition diagram is below. You can see along the top that famous yellow wire you just hooked up. It feeds 12v to that rectangle grey box in the diagram, which is the ignition switch.
