1988 f-150 4 x4 - gas mileage
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1988 f-150 4 x4 - gas mileage
i have a 90 bronco with a 351........i'm pulling about 11.5 miles per gallon and that's with over sized tires. Average on these(broncos, f series) is about 12 mpg.........maybe stretching to 13 at best!! I just went through finding this info out myself so that's why i know. Hope it helps.
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1988 f-150 4 x4 - gas mileage
I've owned four Fords, 68 & 69 F100s and 81 and 90 F150s. All were carburated except the 90, and all had the 300 I-6 except the 69 (360 V8). Anytime the mileage went below 15 (town and highway), I knew something needed attention.
This boils down to checking 3 things, spark-ignition system, air-emissions system, and fuel system. Start by checking all your spark plug wires and coil wire for spark, then check and clean your distributor cap and rotor. Then check your pcv and EGR valves and air filter. On the fuel system, check fuel filter and fuel pump pressure. On fuel injected vehicles check fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail (which supplies fuel injectors). You can buy a gauge that reads up to 100 psi and check it yourself or pay about $20 for a shop to check it. There is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that can cause your mileage to go down (from slightly to drastically) if it is failing or completely shot. Mine recently did this (90 F150, 300 I6) and a new regulator ($38.50) brought it back up from 10 mpg to 15-17 in town and 19 highway. You also need to check the reference voltage and resistance on the following sensors on a fuel injected vehicle: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), Air Charge Temperature (ACT), Oxygen Sensor (O2), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or Mass Air Flow (MAF, on newer engines). You can easily check sensors yourself with a multi-meter from the parts store (cost runs from $15 to $50, depending on how fancy you want) and about 2 hours under the hood. A good Haynes or Helms manual will help a good bit, too ($15 to $20). Also a good idea to have your CAT checked at an exhaust shop (should be free). If your CAT is shot, which happens from prolonged running rich, it can screw up engine performance and mileage. You'll know if your engine is running rich if you've got sooty black plugs and tailpipe (not oil-fouled black, put powdery black soot). Learn how to run and engine self-test and read error codes and maintenance will be a lot easier. This web site tells all about engine self-tests and error codes:
<a href="http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html">http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html</a>
Work your way through the 3-system diagnosis, replacing or cleaning what needs attention, and you should get some mileage boost at not much cost.
This boils down to checking 3 things, spark-ignition system, air-emissions system, and fuel system. Start by checking all your spark plug wires and coil wire for spark, then check and clean your distributor cap and rotor. Then check your pcv and EGR valves and air filter. On the fuel system, check fuel filter and fuel pump pressure. On fuel injected vehicles check fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail (which supplies fuel injectors). You can buy a gauge that reads up to 100 psi and check it yourself or pay about $20 for a shop to check it. There is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that can cause your mileage to go down (from slightly to drastically) if it is failing or completely shot. Mine recently did this (90 F150, 300 I6) and a new regulator ($38.50) brought it back up from 10 mpg to 15-17 in town and 19 highway. You also need to check the reference voltage and resistance on the following sensors on a fuel injected vehicle: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), Air Charge Temperature (ACT), Oxygen Sensor (O2), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or Mass Air Flow (MAF, on newer engines). You can easily check sensors yourself with a multi-meter from the parts store (cost runs from $15 to $50, depending on how fancy you want) and about 2 hours under the hood. A good Haynes or Helms manual will help a good bit, too ($15 to $20). Also a good idea to have your CAT checked at an exhaust shop (should be free). If your CAT is shot, which happens from prolonged running rich, it can screw up engine performance and mileage. You'll know if your engine is running rich if you've got sooty black plugs and tailpipe (not oil-fouled black, put powdery black soot). Learn how to run and engine self-test and read error codes and maintenance will be a lot easier. This web site tells all about engine self-tests and error codes:
<a href="http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html">http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html</a>
Work your way through the 3-system diagnosis, replacing or cleaning what needs attention, and you should get some mileage boost at not much cost.
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