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2000 f-250, gonna replace rotors, pads and wheel bearings, hopefully not calipers but we shall see. Anyone know what spindle nut socket these take? 4prong d-44 style or 60 style with outer prongs. I live rural and cant just run back and forth.
I'm pretty sure I have a d-50 being a 2000. I did put new premium, gold cap warn hubs on a 5 years ago, still cant remember which spindle nut socket lol.
There is no spindle nut on the front axle, just the 4 studs and nuts holding the hub bearing assembly onto the knuckle, and the snap ring on the axle shaft behind your warn hub locks
When replacing the hub units they come in ABS and non ABS flavors. Often the ABS unit is cheaper, and if your truck does not have front ABS you can simply snip off the ABS wire and use the cheaper hub.
When replacing the hub units they come in ABS and non ABS flavors. Often the ABS unit is cheaper, and if your truck does not have front ABS you can simply snip off the ABS wire and use the cheaper hub.
Thanks everyone, I bought abs front hubs and I dont have front abs. Why do I remember a spindle nut? Do 2wds have that?
thanks
Yes, 2wds do have a "live spindle" that the bearings ride on and it uses a regular 6-point wrench/socket/crescent hammer and cotter pin for retention. At least the 2wds do have something normal and decent going for them.
So the only thing keeping the stub shaft in a 4x4 is the snap ring and the small bearing inside the hub bearing? Is it free to slide back a forth a small amount.
Yes, 2wds do have a "live spindle" that the bearings ride on and it uses a regular 6-point wrench/socket/crescent hammer and cotter pin for retention. At least the 2wds do have something normal and decent going for them.
Do I remember somebody saying something about a 12-point spindle nut for the 2wd front ends that could give finer adjustment to the wheel bearings? I'll be due for new front tires here somewhat soon and wanted to throw a fresh front-end alignment and bearing adjustment on there at the same time. The way I go through miles on mine if the alignment isn't spot on or the wheel bearings are too loose it starts trashing front tires pretty fast. (I'd rather have a 450/550 2wd front end)
Do I remember somebody saying something about a 12-point spindle nut for the 2wd front ends that could give finer adjustment to the wheel bearings? I'll be due for new front tires here somewhat soon and wanted to throw a fresh front-end alignment and bearing adjustment on there at the same time. The way I go through miles on mine if the alignment isn't spot on or the wheel bearings are too loose it starts trashing front tires pretty fast. (I'd rather have a 450/550 2wd front end)
It doesn't matter how many points are on the nut (6 or 12) as the thread pitch is what determines travel per degree of rotation - there's no changing that.
Yep, the 2wd F450/550 monotube was an absolute game changing experience for my F250 2WD.....although I do miss the lower stance. It sits up like a regular cab 4x4 now but tire wear and handling are substantially improved (and the 14.5" rotors are pretty bad-*** too!).
Was that a super-involved swap or did everything bolt up to existing holes in the frame?
Almost everything about a 2wd/ZF6 450 or 550 would be better but not having the twin I-beam front end would be the main advantage. I'd prefer the higher ride height personally.
I willl type out the stuff in a little bit. Not a hard swap.....the coil spring bucket rivets are the most labor-intensive part but you can't run less than 19.5" wheels with the 450 knuckles.
Was that a super-involved swap or did everything bolt up to existing holes in the frame?
Almost everything about a 2wd/ZF6 450 or 550 would be better but not having the twin I-beam front end would be the main advantage. I'd prefer the higher ride height personally.
As I said yesterday, the worst part is getting the rivets out of the F250/350 coil buckets on the frame. Everything else unbolts from the crossmember and the leaf spring hangers, shackles, and shackle mounts as well as the sway bar mounts bolt right on. The track bar bolt holes are already in the engine crossmember too. The upper shock mount holes are already present as well. The steering gear/pitman is the same as well so long as the 32/36 spline rules are followed. You will need to install the 4x4 (longer) pitman arm though as the 2wd one will not allow enough swing to go lock-to-lock. Standard F250/350 tie rod parts won't work either - the F450/550 has a wider tube and requires a longer tie rod.
Other than that, anything smaller than 19.5" wheels will not fit over the larger calipers and rotors. This means that you'll likely have to either adopt the 8x225 bolt pattern of the 99-04 F450/550 on the front OR put F250/F350 4x4 knuckles and brakes on it and then install the normal 4x4 8x170 spacers so the standard 16" wheels will fit. The wheel bearing hubs are interchangeable but the 2wd F450/550 ones are solid in the middle (no hole through them for the axle shaft). Just be aware that going the 450/550 tube and F350 dually knuckles/brakes route will also put your wheel track at 4 or more inches wider than the normal F450/F550 front axle. The monotube axle itself is over an inch and a half wider per side outside of the spring perches and the dually wheel spacers are more than an inch deeper on the F350 (8x170) adapters than the F450/550 offerings.
About how much where you into that whole conversion for? This is an interesting upgrade idea for a 2wd dually F-350 where 19.5" wheels and tires on the front would look appropriate. And the the bigger brakes and easier suspension setup are the main bonuses. Did you find that front setup in a junkyard and reuse all the mounting hardware? Is the turning radius any better?
I found the entire axle, brakes, springs, spring hangers/shackles, track bar and frame mount, shock mounts, steering including pitman arm, etc on ebay for $1200. Shipped to MT from Alabama for that price.
Turning radius is identical to 99-04 F250-F550 4x4s. The improved steering didn't show up until 2005 with the wider axle and coil springs.