Ok, so I just bought my 2001 CCSB SRW 4x4 7.3 Automatic. 374k on the clock and all factory even still has the muffler. I'm looking at "freshening up" this engine so it will last until i can afford to do an all out build. What I'm thinking is brand new AC injectors, new factory hpop, and factory turbo rebuilt with higher quality bearings and aftermarket wheels. I'm not looking for big power, just freshen up and regain whats been lost in the 374k miles and 21 years... plus just a hair extra. I know i will need to have the computer flashed to run the AC injectors thanks to you guys on a previous thread. Mainly looking for advice on brands and such. I do already have a very experienced and certified diesel tech that I know and trust to do all the install.

 

I would suggest driving the rig for awhile before starting anything. There is nothing worse than dropping all your bread on upgrades just to find after that you need more money to take care of maintenance or repairs that the truck needed before you started. Begin with fluid and filter maintenance. There is a good chance there will be oil leaks to address. You will be amazed what stock injectors can do for you if they are in good shape. The injector choice you make to just liven up a high mileage motor is probably different than the choice you may want down the road. If you can keep on with the injectors in the truck, no tuning is required. You can just go with a hydra and the PHP tunes.

 

Before dropping all that coin I'd suggest starting with confirming your intake and exhaust are 100% sealed and functioning. Meaning all the connection points from air filter to intake plenums are leak free and your up pipes, collector, and turbine housing are sealed as well. Then I'd pick up a PHP Hydra chip and see how she treats you then. Unless it's running poorly or throwing CEL and codes I say run it. Now if you need more power or want more performance that's another conversation, but for a stock+ truck the chip and the right tune will have you set.

Edit: Oh and start planning for dropping the fuel tank to do the Hutch and harpoon mods because the Hutch at least is a must at one point or another.

Edit yet again: Also the Hydra can be tuned to run any injectors you may ever decide to install, mild to WTF!

 

I echo what is said here. And add to this, is to just get it over with and get some bellowed up-pipes. I gained more than 1 mpg fuel economy just by doing this one thing due to increased engine efficiency from the now completely sealed up exhaust system. Boost numbers are always good when climbing hills, towing the trailer, etc.
Annnnnndddd....... if you are going to have to drop the tank anyway, have your trusted tech migrate the fuel pump to the end of the fuel pickup. It will make a world's difference in the quality of the fuel delivery to the engine.
I have more pictures if you are interested.

 

I agree with these guys. Just run it for a while.

Check for uppipe leaks, if no soot then maybe continue to run as is for now since you’re paying someone to do the work. Bellowed uppipes are a good choice but I don’t want to add labor costs if not needed yet. Those can more easily go in with a turbo upgrade later.

Check air box for broken latches or dust inside the air tube. The boxes are known for being compromised and allowing dust in.

Boost leak test involves installing a (typically homemade) fitting to the boot in front of your turbo then applying compressed air to 25psi. Any leaks will need addressed. Boost leaks will rob performance and efficiency.

Gauges and a Hydra would be the next step. EGT at a minimum. Then trans temp (can be read from PCM if have OBD tool) and fuel pressure. The Hydra will make it a completely different truck. It will provide something foreign to a stock truck…throttle response.

Hutch (and Harpoon) mod is a great idea. Here’s a link. Hutch Mod I retained my fuel pickup foot when doing mine.

I don’t necessarily agree with putting the pump in the tank. It’s like super easy to change right now (frame rail) if needed. Also, there’s extra fab work that you would have to be paying your mechanic to do.

Removing fuel line clamps in the engine valley will prevent lines from wearing a hole in them.
Adding some rubber hose etc to protect where the power steering line contacted the shock bracket will prevent a wear through.
Add some electrical tape or such to the wire harness by the 42 pin connector. This is on the drivers side valve cover. The harness will droop and contact the cover causing wear and shorted wires.

Take a look in the Tech folder sticky post at the top of our forum. TONS of information in there.

 

All these guys are giving good advice.

But the Bestest FTE advice is only shared with people who post pics of their trucks.

Under the hood too so we can see any obvious changes.

 

What are you, some kind of 7/3 pervert? Asking the new guy for pics under his hood right outta the gate. Gonna scare'em off.

 

A couple pictures of the truck being discussed as it sat when i first saw it. I have had it and been driving it for about a month now. It will be going to the mechanic (who I bought it from) soon for glow plugs and other misc work I have neither the time nor desire to do myself. I am mechanically inclined and normally do most of my own maintenance including several clutch jobs on previous vehicles so I'm not totally illiterate with vehicle mechanics. I also know that I am definitely not a master tech by any means and i know when to step back and pay for a professional job. I will have him go over the whole truck for leaks of all kinds as well. I know that the truck sat for 9 years before he bought it to swap the engine into another customer's truck but customer wanted a lower mileage engine. Including the new tires I put on it the day after buying and the tie rod and drag link I'm in the truck total around $6k as it sits right now.

 

Lol I've been around car guys my whole life. Was one of the few things me and my dad agreed on. Gonna take more than that to scare me off

 

I'll take a couple tomorrow mornin. Probably won't be all that great of quality but I'll do my best

 

6k in the current truck market!, Can't believe the law isn't at your door lookin to cuff ya and stuff ya. Nice find, enjoy.

 

I paid 4k for the truck, $1,500 in tires, and close to $500 in misc parts at this point. But yeah... that's exactly why I bought it. My girlfriend having the baby in October helped my taxes out big time and i wasnt letting it go

 

The fellas above have provided some good advice and ideas. So, I will simply say welcome to the FTE!

 

Welcome! I don’t have much to add other than look at the frame where that bumper attaches. I had the same one on mine (Truck Tack?) and it actually cracked the frame near the mounts due to the weight of it. I swapped back to the stock one. Just a heads up..

You got one heck of a deal on that ol’ girl!

 

Glow plugs are a Motorcraft/Beru only item. And be sure to get them from a very reputable source like the dealer or Riffraff. Lots of tricky “motorcraft” fakes running around out there.