Hard brake lines
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 692
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thanks for the quick response. I'm guessing the secondary port is the one for the rear brakes. The more I'm thinking about it, I think I'll get a roll of 3/16" NiCopp and bend my own lines.
Does anyone know if the NiCopp lines are soft enough to bend with one of these cheaper flare tools
or will I need to get the more expensive eastman style flare tool?
Does anyone know if the NiCopp lines are soft enough to bend with one of these cheaper flare tools
or will I need to get the more expensive eastman style flare tool?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,845
Likes: 2,353
Most of the time the best way is to remove your old line and measure it. then go to your local parts house and get the closest length steel line . bend it as close to correct as possible and it's done right. you won't need a flaring tool or anything special.
If you want a nice factory bent look get a set from fine Lines or one of the other pre-bent outfits that's the ultimate fix.
If you want a nice factory bent look get a set from fine Lines or one of the other pre-bent outfits that's the ultimate fix.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,028
Likes: 890
From: East Central Ia
I have used Inline tube and Classic a couple of times with good results. Prices are not that bad considering what you get with a complete kit. As opposed to 8 or 9 trips to the parts store. I can bend and flare tubing and do one off's on occasion. 1 short line is ok from parts store, full length is best left to the pre bent suppliers.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 692
Likes: 211
Most of the time the best way is to remove your old line and measure it. then go to your local parts house and get the closest length steel line . bend it as close to correct as possible and it's done right. you won't need a flaring tool or anything special.
If you want a nice factory bent look get a set from fine Lines or one of the other pre-bent outfits that's the ultimate fix.
If you want a nice factory bent look get a set from fine Lines or one of the other pre-bent outfits that's the ultimate fix.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 143
From: CA
Nicop bends pretty easy by hand you should be fine with a cheap bender. Look in to a straightener too if you want it to look real slick, can also make one.
I see you were talking a bout a flare tool, that’s the make or break, I’d go for a decent one.
I see you were talking a bout a flare tool, that’s the make or break, I’d go for a decent one.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,870
Likes: 4,112
From: Angier, NC
There is nothing wrong with getting a roll of cooper - nickle line and using that flaring tool.
It looks to be the same flaring tool I have and I have had it since the late 70's just make sure you put the fitting on before you flare the line at both ends.
They say the co-ni line is softer than the old steel lines we got back in the day so flaring & bending should not be an issue.
I believe you can get the fittings at parts stores if you cant reuse the old ones.
I would try a NAPA for the fittings before the others but thats me.
BTW if 1 line blew out then the others cant be far behind and should be replaced.
If doing all the steel lines I would also replace the 3 rubber hoses (on a 2wd truck) as they go bad from the inside out if not cracking on the outside.
Dave ----
It looks to be the same flaring tool I have and I have had it since the late 70's just make sure you put the fitting on before you flare the line at both ends.
They say the co-ni line is softer than the old steel lines we got back in the day so flaring & bending should not be an issue.
I believe you can get the fittings at parts stores if you cant reuse the old ones.
I would try a NAPA for the fittings before the others but thats me.
BTW if 1 line blew out then the others cant be far behind and should be replaced.
If doing all the steel lines I would also replace the 3 rubber hoses (on a 2wd truck) as they go bad from the inside out if not cracking on the outside.
Dave ----
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
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There is nothing wrong with getting a roll of cooper - nickle line and using that flaring tool.
It looks to be the same flaring tool I have and I have had it since the late 70's just make sure you put the fitting on before you flare the line at both ends.
They say the co-ni line is softer than the old steel lines we got back in the day so flaring & bending should not be an issue.
I believe you can get the fittings at parts stores if you cant reuse the old ones.
I would try a NAPA for the fittings before the others but thats me.
BTW if 1 line blew out then the others cant be far behind and should be replaced.
If doing all the steel lines I would also replace the 3 rubber hoses (on a 2wd truck) as they go bad from the inside out if not cracking on the outside.
Dave ----
It looks to be the same flaring tool I have and I have had it since the late 70's just make sure you put the fitting on before you flare the line at both ends.
They say the co-ni line is softer than the old steel lines we got back in the day so flaring & bending should not be an issue.
I believe you can get the fittings at parts stores if you cant reuse the old ones.
I would try a NAPA for the fittings before the others but thats me.
BTW if 1 line blew out then the others cant be far behind and should be replaced.
If doing all the steel lines I would also replace the 3 rubber hoses (on a 2wd truck) as they go bad from the inside out if not cracking on the outside.
Dave ----
I’ll play around with the NiCopp but have a feeling that all the hard lines are getting replaced. The lines coming out of the MC go to a valve before heading back to the rears, right?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,870
Likes: 4,112
From: Angier, NC
All you have left are the wheel cyl's and / or calipers, new pads & shoes and the brake system is new and good for the life of the truck LOL.
The lines from the master to that valve should also go to the front along with the rear.
That valve should have a wire(s) on it. When the rear system leaked and the pedal went to the floor that valve should have moved and set a light off on the dash.
So its master to valve to the front & master to the valve to the rear.
Dave ----
psI forgot the master for anew system
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