Help with brake line replacment
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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Help with brake line replacment
1995 E360 van.
I'm trying to get my van back on the road after over a yr sitting.
Discover its loosing brake fluid beneath driver seat and 3 feet further back,
step on brake pedal and theres nothing.
I have to do this myself as money is tight.
The sections from the master cyl down to the first junction are good, they were replaced 3 yrs ago along with all calipers and flex hoses and that was expensive (for me) at $700 to have done.
Are there any FAQ files on this job, I did find something by WVVAN but not much else. Is this a DIY project ? I did the ball joints last yr, I have tools.
ANY tips or encouragement?
My plan is just to cut the lines next to the junctions and use a closed end wrench rather than fight with flare wrench's. I will follow WVVAN and use copper/nickle lines. Going to start on this later today.
I did find a video for a decent ($33) dbl flare tool from NAPA that looks better than the typical cheapo from HF.
I'm trying to get my van back on the road after over a yr sitting.
Discover its loosing brake fluid beneath driver seat and 3 feet further back,
step on brake pedal and theres nothing.
I have to do this myself as money is tight.
The sections from the master cyl down to the first junction are good, they were replaced 3 yrs ago along with all calipers and flex hoses and that was expensive (for me) at $700 to have done.
Are there any FAQ files on this job, I did find something by WVVAN but not much else. Is this a DIY project ? I did the ball joints last yr, I have tools.
ANY tips or encouragement?
My plan is just to cut the lines next to the junctions and use a closed end wrench rather than fight with flare wrench's. I will follow WVVAN and use copper/nickle lines. Going to start on this later today.
I did find a video for a decent ($33) dbl flare tool from NAPA that looks better than the typical cheapo from HF.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
Our era of van's take 3/16" steel brake lines.
I like using the "coated" steel brake line which I buy bulk in 25 foot rolls, never run out, ya know.
You'll need 3/8" x 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts) and unions if your splicing into existing lines.
Yes, all brake lines require double flairs!!!
That video of Napa's tool is kind of cool, I have the older, multiply size style, which is very bulky under the vehicle, so I make up all my lines/fitting up on the bench.
I don't like adding unions if I can go from point A to point B, the less fittings, the less likely of a leak.
(looks more professional too)
A flair wrench is much better on the hollow nuts, and if you have a really tight, rust frozen nut, soak it down with PB blaster first, or even use a propane torch to heat up the fitting.
Don't let the master cylinder go dry, or you never get the system bled, you'll have to bled the master first before you can do the wheels.
A quick search shows several other tips on replacing brake line on this site.
If you have done other wrenching, yes, this is a DIY project, brake lines are not hard to do, if you do them correctly with double flaring and the correct fittings.
I like using the "coated" steel brake line which I buy bulk in 25 foot rolls, never run out, ya know.
You'll need 3/8" x 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts) and unions if your splicing into existing lines.
Yes, all brake lines require double flairs!!!
That video of Napa's tool is kind of cool, I have the older, multiply size style, which is very bulky under the vehicle, so I make up all my lines/fitting up on the bench.
I don't like adding unions if I can go from point A to point B, the less fittings, the less likely of a leak.
(looks more professional too)
A flair wrench is much better on the hollow nuts, and if you have a really tight, rust frozen nut, soak it down with PB blaster first, or even use a propane torch to heat up the fitting.
Don't let the master cylinder go dry, or you never get the system bled, you'll have to bled the master first before you can do the wheels.
A quick search shows several other tips on replacing brake line on this site.
If you have done other wrenching, yes, this is a DIY project, brake lines are not hard to do, if you do them correctly with double flaring and the correct fittings.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Our era of van's take 3/16" steel brake lines.
I like using the "coated" steel brake line which I buy bulk in 25 foot rolls, never run out, ya know.
You'll need 3/8" x 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts) and unions if your splicing into existing lines.
Yes, all brake lines require double flairs!!!
That video of Napa's tool is kind of cool, I have the older, multiply size style, which is very bulky under the vehicle, so I make up all my lines/fitting up on the bench.
I don't like adding unions if I can go from point A to point B, the less fittings, the less likely of a leak.
(looks more professional too)
A flair wrench is much better on the hollow nuts, and if you have a really tight, rust frozen nut, soak it down with PB blaster first, or even use a propane torch to heat up the fitting.
Don't let the master cylinder go dry, or you never get the system bled, you'll have to bled the master first before you can do the wheels.
A quick search shows several other tips on replacing brake line on this site.
If you have done other wrenching, yes, this is a DIY project, brake lines are not hard to do, if you do them correctly with double flaring and the correct fittings.
I like using the "coated" steel brake line which I buy bulk in 25 foot rolls, never run out, ya know.
You'll need 3/8" x 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts) and unions if your splicing into existing lines.
Yes, all brake lines require double flairs!!!
That video of Napa's tool is kind of cool, I have the older, multiply size style, which is very bulky under the vehicle, so I make up all my lines/fitting up on the bench.
I don't like adding unions if I can go from point A to point B, the less fittings, the less likely of a leak.
(looks more professional too)
A flair wrench is much better on the hollow nuts, and if you have a really tight, rust frozen nut, soak it down with PB blaster first, or even use a propane torch to heat up the fitting.
Don't let the master cylinder go dry, or you never get the system bled, you'll have to bled the master first before you can do the wheels.
A quick search shows several other tips on replacing brake line on this site.
If you have done other wrenching, yes, this is a DIY project, brake lines are not hard to do, if you do them correctly with double flaring and the correct fittings.
I suspect the master is already dry as fluid drains out before it reaches the distribution (HCU?) box, so it'll have to be bled but I'll see what I get, I have some rubber plugs for brake lines.
I don't plan on patching existing lines, I'll get a roll of line and replace anything that looks old. The lines that run across the top of the rear axle are good. All the flex lines in the rear are new and in very good condition.
Other than that the van runs great.
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